Tony D Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 where is Darius or someone else with DEEP pockets that would finally put this beast to work and NOT blow up... Putting the hood on their own build in preparation for a move to Reno NV. And it won't blow up. Now that one? Who knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Putting the hood on their own build in preparation for a move to Reno NV. And it won't blow up. Now that one? Who knows? Jeffs car ... Well i have exactly 533,2 RWHP but no boost and about 6,7 liter to do it haha. Relaible and more than 500 hp in a l6 is relative i guess. Its what you expect off it. It wont go for 300k miles but with the right care i guess 50k should be possible. how many miles do you have Tim ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Well obviously a motor at those limits wont last long but im talking even a few years=50k etc like you if tuned properly and built right. Ofcourse the bigger motor vs the i6 is alot easier to make the power but there really are VERY few that have done it, and it is a task but definately possible, especially when most of the "weaker points" (clutch, trans, rear end, etc) has been taken care of by using other cars parts and adapting them to our own. I just want to see a recent thread with the 'Heavy hitters' (and you can even title it that) with tim, and anyone else putting out more than 500 to the wheels and doing it for more than a few pulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) I dont think the rear end is the problem on z's ( zx's for that matter') I agree clutch and gearbox need attention.. but i.e. a z32 gearbox could solve that! The problem is proper tune, proper parts, proper usage.... Edited January 27, 2011 by frank280zx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgmeredithjr Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 lol... That motor is probably a hand grenade waiting to happen. Jeff Hanken (former Sunbelt Racing Engines engine builder) is going completely through the motor...it's gonna be just fine ladies. Cleve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 well ma'am since you have given up let us know who's getting it next so we can get our bets in on how long before they sell it off/give up like all have so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Haha im still curious of the piston size? I have a feeling its about 89mm with a stock stroke making it say 3.0L displacement... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgmeredithjr Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 well ma'am since you have given up let us know who's getting it next so we can get our bets in on how long before they sell it off/give up like all have so far. Listen honey, nobody has given up, all my playthings are always on the market. Still looking for a decent road race chassis to stick this in. Cleve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgmeredithjr Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Haha im still curious of the piston size? I have a feeling its about 89mm with a stock stroke making it say 3.0L displacement... I need to confirm with Jeff, but I think it has an 87mm bore with a stock 2.8 crank (79mm stroke). Cleve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Well then, what happened to that chassis that you already posted it was all going in? You sell that plaything already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgmeredithjr Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Well then, what happened to that chassis that you already posted it was all going in? You sell that plaything already? Yep, sold it to a buddy here in Atlanta who is going to G-Nose it and run it at the new Atlanta Motorsports Park. I'm looking for something that could still be somewhat streetable...I don't like the down time between track events:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Tony is correct, the wheel movement is not acceptable. Tont is also correct regarding the movement I had with my car and I did engineer a bushing that stopped a good amount of the wheel moving. I am told, that the trailing arm mounting bravkets welded to the sub frame are to weak to position the tire, or stop the movement, will stop all of the movement of the wheel. The Dyno will not tell you if you are applying the power evenly to both tires. So I ran the car for some time with incorrect alignment of the rear tire on the passenger side of the car. Not to much of a problem with street tires. The first time I did a run with my wrinkle wall's what a ride that was. I did my normal wot run and the way the car was aligned was so far out in the rear I could hardly keep the car on the road and it was a three lane street. I came up on power and I was doing a quick lane change. I had to almost go a half turn on the steering wheel to get the car to go strait, changed two lanes in about two seconds when I got into it. What a surprise that was, the car would not go strait, then I took a look at the alignment and what a surprise that was also. I have a set of trailing arm adjusters from specialty products to make the rear adjustable. So the alignment guy gets the car on the machine and does the alignment, yes it is all good now, WRONG! The new digital alignment machine said it was good, but when I had good traction, the TRUE alignment showed its ugly face, and the car would not pull strait. Upon further investigation, I found that the 1/2" offset of the adjusters were not positioned in the same general place, and in fact the left side adjuster was adjusted so the offset was closest to the K member, and the right side offset was the furthest away from the K member. There simply was NO WAY the rear of the car was aligned correct. I made the adjustment to the right side of the car and it started pulling strait. The rear K member of the car is floating so to speak. Nissan did not want all of the "noise" associated with a solid mount to the car chassis. No problem for me, and I don't think it is to loud. I also installed the "poly Derlin" bushings for the trailing arms, so that also are mounted "solid" with the additional parts for the trailing arms. According to Tony, and Frank the right tire was still moving on the dyno, and from what I found with the alignment on the right, that accounted for some of the movement (and tweaking the car chassis) That was @ 489RWHP on the mustang dyno. The car needed more work to secure the rear wheels in a fixed position. You need to fix the wheel movement or that car is going to throw you all over the place, and believe me, when you are under good power, you don't need to be putting that much time and effort into steering the car under power to keep it going strait, there is plenty other things to think about when you are racing. Jeff do you have a thread for the rear cross member mod? I checked on your web page and didn't see it there. I've been wondering about how the rear wheels sit in the wheel well more forward than you would think they should be and that's with the stock setting. It's an issue not just for high performance but also if you are lowering the car or putting wider wheels on. Is it safe to assume that moving the rear cross memeber is going to be less of an issue with the CV setup rather than the U-Joints that the non-turbo car uses?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 It's on his webpage---at least the bushing diagrams are... you got to read and look closely. There is a lot of photographic information on his site and even on broadband it takes a while to load completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretchnuts Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 It's on his webpage---at least the bushing diagrams are... you got to read and look closely. There is a lot of photographic information on his site and even on broadband it takes a while to load completely. Hmmm...looks like the motor is still being "freshened". This thread is why I would never buy a motor someone else "built". http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/2318895708.html Just do all of us real z-car fans a favor and part the thing out, dibs on everything besides the block and turbo. I can't stand it when people throw around dyno sheets trying to be tough guys, and the worse part is you really didn't do much wrench turning in the process, just wrote a lot of checks... Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but after reading seven pages of this guy ****fighting I had to vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.