Guess the 280ZX Turbo RWHP based only on Dyno video

[cgmeredithjr]

Is that a precision gts76 turbon on the car? What size is the turbine housing/wheel? Looks like it could use more cam as well. I'm curious about the boost as well and what is the stall rpm on the converter?

 

Yes, PT76GTS, .96 turbine housing, not sure which wheel. Not sure of the cam specs, but it is a big one based on the base circles. She was just starting to make power (25PSI) and then fell on her face (10:1 AFR and timing issues). We were unable to do any tuning because I did not have the MicroTech adapter. Not sure on the converter either. Sorry I don't have more details, I bought it second hand.

 

Trying to get back on the dyno next week...she is gonna make more.

 

Cleve

[cgmeredithjr]

That was deceiving, the runs were so short that I thought it was more. I was expecting more RPMs and a later peak. Yeah, how much boost was that?

 

I agree. I was standing there filming and thought wow that is going to be a BIG number based on the quickness of the run...sound can be deceiving. I thought it would be interesting to see what others thought the numbers were.

 

Cleve

[jc052685]

Don't worry, there's a LOT more in her. We were unable to communicate with the Microtech ECU because I did not have the Microtech adapter. She was going pig rich (10:1) right as the power came on and timing was way off and we could not make any adjustments (I think the car was tuned for a huge shot of nitrous and that is why we were seeing this happen on the current tune as delivered to me). Hopefully the adapter comes in quickly and I can get back on the dyno next week. That's around 500RWHP on a Dynojet by the way.

 

Do you like my picture, goes with the era of cars we are playing with, don't you think?

 

Cleve

 

 

I was gona say based on the dyno that either there is not enough cam or the afr is pig rich up top.

 

I am on pins and needles for those final numbers.

 

btw, You want around 500whp on a dynojet, go dyno on a dynojet. Dont go spewing anymore numbers on what the car has not done.

Edited October 10, 2010 by jc052685

[cgmeredithjr]

I was gona say based on the dyno that either there is not enough cam or the afr is pig rich up top.

 

I am on pins and needles for those final numbers.

 

btw, You want around 500whp on a dynojet, go dyno on a dynojet. Dont go spewing anymore numbers on what the car has not done.

 

Yes, you certainly are a prick (as you yourself stated). My spewing of the Dynojet numbers was merely for comparison purposes since most here probably have had their cars tested on a Dynojet, and those with experience in this area are familiar with the fact that the Dynojet will produce numbers 12-15% higher than a Dyno Dynamics reading.

 

Cleve :P

[B00STDZ]

Wow I nailed it as far as hp goes! Hahaha!

 

 

Very nice, They call dyno dynamics "the heart breaker" so deff probably about 480whp on dyno jet... which is what many people use on the forums.

 

 

What setup are you running? Built motor? Stock block? Built block? Ported head? ITB's?

[cgmeredithjr]

Wow I nailed it as far as hp goes! Hahaha!

 

 

Very nice, They call dyno dynamics "the heart breaker" so deff probably about 480whp on dyno jet... which is what many people use on the forums.

 

 

What setup are you running? Built motor? Stock block? Built block? Ported head? ITB's?

 

Built by World Wide Racing

-Sleeved L28 block

-Factory Forged Steel Crank

-PAR Rods

-JE Pistons

-ARP Hardware

-External Oil Pump

-8 Quart Oil Pan

-Ported P90 Head with Ferrea Valves

-Custom built exhaust manifold

-Hand fabricated intake manifold

-90mm Wilson throttle body

-Coil on Plug ignition MSD DIS-4

-Microtech ECU

-Greddy Profec B

-1000cc injectors

-Precision Turbo (76GTS)

-Huge Intercooler with 3" inlet pipe and 3.5" discharge

-Tial Wastegate

-Tial Blow Off valve

-Electric Water Pump

-Fully built TH 400 with reverse valve body

-R-200 LSD

-Fuel Cell

-Complete Nitrous System which has not been used

[woldson]

î

[B00STDZ]

Haha now thats a MANS turbo! Rofl. Why so big?

 

I would hook the nitrous system to help spool the turbo to get boost quicker.

 

So I take it its still 2.8L or did the overbore it any? I guess they did because they sleeved... Do you know the piston size? Tial wastegate i take is 44mm?

[jc052685]

Yes, you certainly are a prick (as you yourself stated). My spewing of the Dynojet numbers was merely for comparison purposes since most here probably have had their cars tested on a Dynojet, and those with experience in this area are familiar with the fact that the Dynojet will produce numbers 12-15% higher than a Dyno Dynamics reading.

 

Cleve :P

 

 

And some dyno dynamics dyno the same as dynojet. You want to say you have 500whp, then dyno it.

[hoov100]

Lol, give me two minutes to change a couple settings and I can get a dyno to give you any number you want!

[260DET]

Thread fail until we see a dyno printout with good power from 4000rpm up, otherwise dynoQueen.

[cgmeredithjr]

Thread fail until we see a dyno printout with good power from 4000rpm up, otherwise dynoQueen.

 

Ignorance is bliss isn't it? How exactly did this thread fail? The point was to see if anyone could guess the HP just by visual and sound...several posters thought it made a lot more than it actually did...which was the point. Microtech adaptor came in so it will hopefully be back on the dyno at Forged next week. Dyno Queen?...nope, just a fast POS.

 

Cleve

[cgmeredithjr]

Thread fail until we see a dyno printout with good power from 4000rpm up, otherwise dynoQueen.

 

Speaking of fail, I just watched your dyno pull video...408 on a VG30DET with a 35R all the way to 7000RPM, pretty lame if you ask me.

 

Cleve

[hoov100]

Speaking of fail, I just watched your dyno pull video...408 on a VG30DET with a 35R all the way to 7000RPM, pretty lame if you ask me.

 

Cleve

 

 

What's the point in having power if you can't use it? Also quit trying to instigate things.

Edited October 18, 2010 by hoov100

[Tony D]

With the breakup on the top end, much less than it should have.

I would guess around 400+ as that's about where we started seeing the wheel move in the wheel well (not climbing up the rollers which most people seemed obsessed about---look at the clearance between the wheel and the LEADING EDGE of the fenderwell!)

 

JeffP moved his rear subframe back 0.375" and that is likely the only thing that kept us from cutting a tire doing the pulls. Likely it's what occurred on Oz's Bonneville spin (posted elsewhere.)

 

There was another posuer posting about a '500HP L20A at 15psi' who simply refused to address what they did to keep the wheel from deflecting. Like they didn't have an issue. If you don't have an issue with a ZX wheel moving forward in the wheel well under power, you ARE NOT making 400+HP to the rear wheels. Pleas don't claim to 'use the right sized tires with plenty of clearance' or claim 'there are no issues with rubbing we have the correct wheel offsets'... Those are all sidesteps to the basic question: how do you address the wheel movement. Claiming it isn't an issue with stock sized tires smacks of never making any real power.

 

If you make power in a ZX, this should bother you. It bothered Jeff so much he relocated the subframe back on solid bushings 0.375"! This one looks like it's moving more, and getting dangerously close to cutting a tire. I'm guessing on stock subframe bushings. I'd suggest you get to the machinist with the drawing from JeffP's website and fix your suspension before something blows up and sends high speed rubber all over the dyno room!

 

<Edit: Oh, I see there was a dyno sheet posted, so the guessing game was over by the time I saw this...As for Dyno Jet Numbers, I'm with those who say 'if you want Dynojet Numbers, go to a Dynojet' or 'give me a couple of minutes and I'll change parameters for any power you want to see'---you have what you have on your dyno sheet, nothing more than that. I don't think anybody with integrity uses a Dynojet for anything but bragging rights anyway. Mustang is traceable to NIST, so are many others, without the calbiration sheet for the run, any claim is nothing more than numbers on a sheet of paper. Some of us here aren't impressed by idle bragging. So you made power---you want a cookie? Fix the trailing arm before someone gets killed. I made 325HP in a VW Microbus when I was 19...I would like to think I gained enough wisdom to know doing so was probably mighitly stupid as the chassis wasn't ready for it. This appears to be the case on this car as well. If you run it on the street at this power level, please make sure it's only yourself you kill, and not someone in an oncoming lane or innocent vagrant walking down the shoulder! >

Edited October 18, 2010 by Tony D

[BLOZ UP]

What's the point in having power if you can't use it? Also quit trying to instigate things.

 

No ****. The car looks great, has potential. But he keeps posting these threads like it's the best thing since sliced bread, passive arrogance: "Guess how much power it makes!11" "It should be 203.8% more on a dynojet", etc.

 

cjmeredith: Let me put it this way, if you would take as much effort in to posting videos/pics/timeslips of the car instead of defending it and trying to fault other people, we'd be way less... annoyed. Blakt out, or whatever the name of that green 240Z guy who's selling everything and becoming a monk, for example, has a great thread on the work done on his car. Just pictures. They speak for themselves.

[rwdawg2]

.... saw there was a second page

 

I would like to come across that thing on I85 one day, haha

 

Thanks for the videos, and breakdown.

Lindsey

Edited October 18, 2010 by rwdawg2

[ModernS30]

I can't wait to see results from a re-tune. I am hoping to see at least 550 to the wheels! Good luck, oh and please sendz me moneyz. =P

[jeffp]

Tony is correct, the wheel movement is not acceptable. Tont is also correct regarding the movement I had with my car and I did engineer a bushing that stopped a good amount of the wheel moving. I am told, that the trailing arm mounting bravkets welded to the sub frame are to weak to position the tire, or stop the movement, will stop all of the movement of the wheel.

 

The Dyno will not tell you if you are applying the power evenly to both tires. So I ran the car for some time with incorrect alignment of the rear tire on the passenger side of the car. Not to much of a problem with street tires.

The first time I did a run with my wrinkle wall's what a ride that was. I did my normal wot run and the way the car was aligned was so far out in the rear I could hardly keep the car on the road and it was a three lane street. I came up on power and I was doing a quick lane change. I had to almost go a half turn on the steering wheel to get the car to go strait, changed two lanes in about two seconds when I got into it. What a surprise that was, the car would not go strait, then I took a look at the alignment and what a surprise that was also.

I have a set of trailing arm adjusters from specialty products to make the rear adjustable. So the alignment guy gets the car on the machine and does the alignment, yes it is all good now, WRONG! The new digital alignment machine said it was good, but when I had good traction, the TRUE alignment showed its ugly face, and the car would not pull strait. Upon further investigation, I found that the 1/2" offset of the adjusters were not positioned in the same general place, and in fact the left side adjuster was adjusted so the offset was closest to the K member, and the right side offset was the furthest away from the K member. There simply was NO WAY the rear of the car was aligned correct. I made the adjustment to the right side of the car and it started pulling strait.

The rear K member of the car is floating so to speak. Nissan did not want all of the "noise" associated with a solid mount to the car chassis. No problem for me, and I don't think it is to loud. I also installed the "poly Derlin" bushings for the trailing arms, so that also are mounted "solid" with the additional parts for the trailing arms.

According to Tony, and Frank the right tire was still moving on the dyno, and from what I found with the alignment on the right, that accounted for some of the movement (and tweaking the car chassis) That was @ 489RWHP on the mustang dyno. The car needed more work to secure the rear wheels in a fixed position.

You need to fix the wheel movement or that car is going to throw you all over the place, and believe me, when you are under good power, you don't need to be putting that much time and effort into steering the car under power to keep it going strait, there is plenty other things to think about when you are racing.

[jeffp]

>I can't wait to see results from a re-tune. I am hoping to see at least 550 to the wheels! Good luck, oh and please sendz me moneyz. =P <

That is a tall order to fill, not to many L28's have made that much power. I am aware of a few that can do it or have done it, so get the thing on a load bearing dyno, load the piss out of it and see what you get. I am quite sure your dyno numbers will disappoint you on the mustang dyno, that machine is a heart breaker LOL.

But for me, at the time, 489Hp at the wheels with a simulated 16% grade to pull, the car was struggeling the whole run. You will know for sure when you have hit the 550-650hp renge of power, because the car will do a burnout when you tag the throttle, and if you happen to be doing 75-80 MPH at the time that should not be a problem LOL.

 

BTY, how were the engine temps running? Not to much after 500hp, you will start to see the heating /cooling issue come up, and you will not be able to keep the engine cool, two pulls MAX and it is time to cool down! that is what I have been working on with my engine.