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Road Race Enduro L28 Engine Build


z-ya

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You are going to be banned if you don't post a video clip! You've had since July with lots of requests! :)

 

I figured getting it to do more that 1/2 lap before overheating was more important that a video :rolleyes:

 

As soon as I have one, I'll post.

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Because Mikunis only have 3 different tubes, and only one is supposed to be good for race cars. Webers have many different options.

 

In hindsight, we could have gone with new Webers with what we have spent on getting these Mikunis in order. Then we would of had a lot more options to improve drivability. I'm not giving up on them yet. In the spring I'll get time on the "free" dyno and spend some time playing with the low speed jets and look at different emulsion tubes options.

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I figured getting it to do more that 1/2 lap before overheating was more important that a video :rolleyes:

 

As soon as I have one, I'll post.

 

 

Cooling is overrated! J/K - glad to hear your making progress again. I just finished massive troubleshooting on a car I just sold - and am getting ready to do it on one of my Z's,(the Super Datsun), then on to the track car - same issues...:)

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Here is a pic from the event last weekend. Turn 3 at Loudon. Proof that it actually can do more than 1/2 half lap. They opened up the south oval (NASCAR) to the event for the first time.

 

normal_pcm-hpd-8874.jpg

 

Oh, and after having control arm failure on the race car, I used my turbo car the second day:

 

normal_pcm-hpd-9119.jpg

Edited by z-ya
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Yup. I blew up the dark pic and you guys are right. So I guess the TC rod kept everything somewhat in place?

 

The TC rod takes the longitudinal forces, so braking was likely unaltered. Steering effort increased because the tie-rod was now taking steering and lateral loads.

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We will start another thread on the control arm failure. Yup, that's our local club site, and Skip took the photos.

 

We will have more pics once we take it apart, but it appears to just be poor design. A local guy that makes similar control arms for 510s made these for us. I will not add my conclusion at this point, but I have a pretty good feeling what caused the failure. You really need to see what they look like to understand. When I get the picks I will start a new thread in the proper forum.

 

In the mean time I needed some new underwear after that session :) We have been fighting handling issues this year too. The first two sessions the car handled OK, but still seemed really loose as compared to last year. On the last session when the control arm started to fail, it was turning OK to the left, but hardly at all to the right. Then it just broke. Good thing I was entering the chicane where there is a lot of runoff. And yes, the only thing holding it together was the sway bar and the TC rod.

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Yikes! I remember you saying something about vintage racing, Z-yah. I see you're doing a lot of DE's and stuff, is this just for test and tune?

 

While we all wait for video, I'll just throw one in from last springs CVAR events, probably doesn't sound as cool as your does I bet ;) but it will hold us off for now! Stay safe and play nicely out there Z-ya, us corner workers don't want to respond to a motionless driver any time soon!

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Here are some pics of the exhaust off the car. The header collectors are 2.25", and the rest of it is 2.5". The mufflers are welded to the Patriot megaphones. The megaphones were cut on the small end to fit the muffler, and then slash cut at the rear perpendicular to the ground. The head and megaphones we ceramic coated by Sunkook River Powedercoating (Chris on this forum): http://www.srpowdercoating.com/. Three bolt flanges at the header, and single bolt slip on connections right before the mufflers. Minus the mufflers, this is how they ran them back in the day. Rearplugs are now required to drive the car.

 

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So, other than flow issues...what would be different than running megaphones right off the collectors?

 

I just watched the video and my ears are ringing!

 

There is more than enough flow with the mufflers. Without them, you'd just have more ear damage.

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