Vivalawham Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Hello all, My name is Bryce and I'm new to the Z scene and these forums (be gentle if I posted this in the wrong spot). I just picked up a '78 280z 4spd for 2k, pretty good shape with no rust at all. I intend to swap an l28et, and I'd like to get a little input on whether I'm going at this right. I've done quite a bit of reading on how much this will cost me (including Drax' very informative sticky), and I've located a running '81 zxt engine with a 90 day warranty for $400. I think I can do the swap myself with a little help and some moral support - I'm told that it would be best to rebuild the clutch while I've got everything out, and I have no idea what I should be looking for. What I'm seeing is everything from OE economy kits at $80 to racing kits at $400+. I'd like to keep cost down as much as possible, but I'd like this thing to eventually put out somewhere between 250-300 HP, so I need to be sure it will handle that adequately. Are there any common issues and or pitfalls at this point in the game that I should be aware of before I jump in headfirst? My ultimate goal for this car is for it to be a nice quick daily driver. Ideally Id like to get the swap in and running, then gradually make the rest of the modifications needed to reach the output I noted above. -Bryce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Bryce, From the one image you attached, the car looks very clean. Please post more pics if you can, we would like to see the rest of the car. If you research this site to death you will find everything you need. I am doing an RB25 swap and without hybrid it would not have been possible. As far as your clutch question, I have similar horse power goals and car purpose goals. I am going with the ACT HD clutch with organic disc. They cost around $300 with shipping. Hopefully you can get a similar quality product for less b/c your trans is US domestic. Bonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vivalawham Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Here are the rest of the pictures I have at the moment. Mechanically the car is so-so. Drove it an hour and a half home with no major issues noticed aside from it dying if I use the turn signal (weird?), and the windshield wipers ceasing to function about halfway back. I suspect the wipers have something to do with linkage, because I could still hear the motor humming away, just no movement windshield - side. Struts are bad (of course), trans seems solid with the addition of some bushings, engine developed a knock once I got it home, but I'm not sure if it could be due to low oil/weak oil pump. It's only knocking in the cylinder at the front of the car. Knock goes away if I unplug the spark. -Bryce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Honestly a stock clutch will hold that power, but if you go any higher(which you probably will) you will probably want to upgrade. You can get a stage 1 exedy clutch(full face organic) for about $300 and a stage 2(3 puck) for like $380. You also might want to get you flywheel resurfaced and maybe lightened a few lbs. Also post more pics of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subridersix Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Hey Bryce I'm just getting started doing the turbo swap you are planning in my 76 280. My donor car hasn't run in ten years and I'm currently hung up by ignition problems with it. My 76 was running, until I pulled the engine and transmission this morning. Over the next few weeks I plan to work on cleaning up the 76's engine compartment while continuing the battle with getting the donor up and running. Like you, I want the donor running before I start the swap. Good luck and keep in touch, maybe we can give each other a push in the right direction occasionally. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 good stuff man keep us posted and yeah get some more pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vivalawham Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 Hey Bryce I'm just getting started doing the turbo swap you are planning in my 76 280. My donor car hasn't run in ten years and I'm currently hung up by ignition problems with it. My 76 was running, until I pulled the engine and transmission this morning. Over the next few weeks I plan to work on cleaning up the 76's engine compartment while continuing the battle with getting the donor up and running. Like you, I want the donor running before I start the swap. Good luck and keep in touch, maybe we can give each other a push in the right direction occasionally. Bob The zxt engine I'm getting is out of the car but guaranteed to run, so we'll see what kind of kinks I run into (hopefully few). I'll start taking some more pictures once I get the engine delivered and start yanking the old L28 out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Honestly a stock clutch will hold that power, but if you go any higher(which you probably will) you will probably want to upgrade. You can get a stage 1 exedy clutch(full face organic) for about $300 and a stage 2(3 puck) for like $380. You also might want to get you flywheel resurfaced and maybe lightened a few lbs. Also post more pics of the car B/S! My stock 280zx turbo clutch slipped at 200 whp on the dyno. If I had to do over again I would just buy a performance clutch to begin with. I went with the SPEC Stage 3+ a street clutch with reasonable clamping force, quiet, and supposidly holds 500whp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted January 5, 2011 Share Posted January 5, 2011 Getting a OEM ZX Turbo clutch should hold the power that engine should make. if it burns out quickly them I think there's some other issue. The 280ZXT is a heavier car so it stands to reason the ZXT clutch shouldn't have to work as hard in a lighter S30. It's your wallet, but I'd still go with the cheaper (not bargain basement) oem clutch/flywheel. The Car looks pretty good. Is that the stock paint? If your engine only has a short warranty, then you should get it in and started ASAP. $400 is a great price, Does it include the ECU/wiring and parts like the AFM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sticky280zx Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Do you like changes clutches? if so stay stock, if not buy one like the centerforce dual friction or exedy, both full face and the dual friction is still sprung so its verryyy dd friendly. also lets say the stock will hold the power...but for how long vs the better/expensive clutch....i like to only build my cars once, and clutch changes every year arent on my list of todo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Unless I had a faulty clutch, I can assure you it wont hold anything above 200 wheel... I hardly even drove the car before the dyno run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vivalawham Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Update: I called the scrap yard to double check what came with the engine, per bumble zee's excellent Turbo Swap Guide list of required components. Here is what comes with, and I need to know if I should still go ahead and get it, or if I need to hold off and find one that comes with everything: Engine Turbo Turbo Manifold Downpipe Injectors Sensors are assumed to be present Everything else (ECU, FI harness, ignition harness, airflow meter, FI relay), is missing per the scrap yard. Opionions? How easy is the rest of this stuff to come by? -Bryce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Well as with any swap it's easiest to get all the parts from the same Donor, but in this case it's not available. You'll need to look around and see if you can find them. Alternatively you can go Megasquirt, or adapt a Z31 Turbo Harness ECU etc into it. There's nothing saying you have to stick with the L28ET stuff, it's just easier that way. Look around, Try EBay, craigslist or some of the forums. (Forsale/wanted on here is pretty handy) PM me and I'll hook you up with my local Z dismantler, he might have that stuff. Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vivalawham Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Just found two complete ld28 engines, one with a knock, for 500 (assuming the guy still has them). Maybe I should do that instead? I hear these engines have a lot of potential. My friend who located them used to have one that put out about 330hp N/A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vivalawham Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 I know I haven't updated in a while - here's where we're at. The car blew the headgasket en route to a shop, so I've decided to keep her stock for now and just fix what I've already got. She's currently getting: Headgasket Timing Chain Water Pump Radiator Heater Core Struts (KYB all around) New Center Console ($130.00 OEM NEW on eBay!) Plugs/Wires Cold Air Intake One question I had - there seem to be a lot of suspension bushing kits floating around - is there any particular one that you guys might recommend? Most of this will be finished by the weekend. I'll take pictures once I get it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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