Jump to content
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. 240z / 280z Parts for sale

    Shipping is going to be about $50 So, if you want them, send me $150 via paypal to [email protected] and I will try to get them shipped this weekend.
  3. XTD Clutch opinions

    Is this the clutch you are referring to? https://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-3-DUAL-FRICTION-RACING-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-03-06-350Z-03-07-G35-jdm/192450127795?fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item2cceebe7b3:g:M9gAAOSw3ydV6grc&vxp=mtr I saw that they also have a Stage 3 that is a 6 puck, but this is the one I was leaning towards.
  4. Today
  5. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early 280z

    Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  6. 2014 mustang spindle conversion

    what are you doing for the main lower balljoint? same dimensions? got pics of this all setup? i really dig the concept and idea!
  7. Sorry about the inconvenience, I deleted the Garage Booth-continued post and am reposting it here. Closeup of the right corner of garage booth It uses a 2 1/2" lag screw to fasten two 3/ 32" curtain cables in garage roof rafters. The turnbuckle provides cable tension adjustment. A 1" PVC pipe is used to be booth corner vertical support. It is slotted with a cutoff tool to fit tightly into the corner cable arrangement. The slotted PVC provides a stable vertical brace. Next a bottom mount of this PVC pipe must constructed.
  8. Hey everyone, Any chance of finding a RHD padel box (actually i need 5!) For a 1973 240Z ?
  9. Strut tower brace

    Hopefully shipping is not crazy if I end up getting it. Lol
  10. Strut tower brace

    Thanks jhm. If this fits my 73 240z. Seems like according to into it would? I'll buy it and can do PP. Thank Charith
  11. Fuel Rail Compatiblity

    They fit just like the 280Z rails except for the cold start valve (CSV) extension. You can probably bend and/or cut to make it work. I've had a ZX rail on my 280Z engine but I just cut the CSV stem off (no CSV) and sealed it with a compression fitting.
  12. ZF/Ford 6HP80 behind a LS?

    Gotcha, hadn't read you were using a Haltech.
  13. Hoke provides driveshafts now too huh? That will be good to know down the road. Project is looking great! It kind of reminds me that in many ways a pure track car like I am building is so much simpler....no messing with getting a decent stock dash and all that!
  14. Exposed's 1jz Build

    I'd still like to see a bigger vacuum port, but that might just be nit picky. I know at work we have small lines pulling large volumes of vacuum. My recent mishap with AN fittings makes me a bit nervous with the boost solenoid, but that is probably a knee jerk reaction on my part.
  15. Yesterday
  16. seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Hmm that is something interesting to think about. With how cheap plug kits are I'm not sure how economical this would be. It would definitely be useful if you were doing some type of specific connector or some such thing, I know I've been delayed a week or two looking for a specific connector. If you can sketch something up with dimensions I'd be happy to make you a prototype. I'm happy to use the practice.
  17. Fuel Rail Compatiblity

    IIRC I'm running a 280z fuel rail on a webbed 280zx intake manifold, so I don't see why the opposite couldn't be done as well. In my case, I have a motor pulled from a 280zx and the rail was cut in the process of removal so I had to scavenge from my original motor to make it work.
  18. R230 companion flange adaptor

    forgive my ignorance. But lets say you find a way to mount the R230, which axles go between these flanges and the Diff?
  19. Fuel Rail Compatiblity

    Welcome to the forums. Looks like you posted to the FAQ section. I've moved your post to the engine section and the fuel delivery subforum. I believe the 280Z's don't have what traditionally looks like a fuel rail. More like a loop of fuel line with barbs going to each injector. Very similar if not the same as those found on the later L28E motors found in 1979-1983. I would say off hand that, that should be fine, although I am not sure if there are manifold changes which may cause mounting differences.
  20. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    This week I get to see how my wing came out, and it was not as great as I hoped.
  21. Got the door bars done. I still need to add a harness bar and a dash bar (I will do those after dropping the cage and welding the awkward spots), and some gussets, but other than that I think I am calling everything from the dash back to be "done". I can think of additional bars I could add that might stiffen things up a bit, but IMHO I kind of feel most of it would be diminishing returns. Everything has been a trade off of adding stiffness and chassis integrity, while still allowing decent access in and out of the car. I think I am at a decent place to stop. Thanks for looking.
  22. WTB CAM core

    Do you need an early cam that uses a spray bar or a later cam that oils through the cam? I have an early one from a 240 ,the 280 cam from LanceVance should be The one on top is a late cam. The one on bottom is a early cam.
  23. R200 STUB SHAFTS

    are these the ones that go into the diff? or the outboard axles? Had no idea they are worth this much! I gotta sell my 2 sets I have kicking around.
  24. Might possibly also be the ignition switch wiring (which runs alongside the steering column) or the switch itself. The harness is designed such that full amperage runs through the switch, and when connections get old and corroded, it starts to heat up and melt electrical connectors and plugs. A good solution is the clean all your plugs and connections, and insert a relay into the system so that the ignition switch is not carrying the full electrical load. If your battery is dying when the car's not running, there is a draw somewhere in the system (stereo, alarm, etc). A quick start to tracking down the draw is to pull the fuses one at a time and see which circuit is draining the battery when the ignition's shut off. If that doesn't do it, you'll have to dive deeper into the various electrical harnesses with a multimeter. Electrical gremlins are a pain.
  25. XTD Clutch opinions

    I am running this , https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acl-nx1-hdg6 Combined with a light flywheel it's pretty racy and nice.
  26. XTD Clutch opinions

    https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/shop/13lb-rb26-flywheel-kit-for-l-series-engines We run these on all of our build cars with the XTD Stage 3 clutch for the 350z. It requires some minor bell housing clearancing to clear the clutch cover. But you can run the 240mm 280zx turbo clutch with this flywheel, and it's fractions cheaper than the Fidanza
  27. + means the alternator is supplying more power than the system is using. That's normal, and good. - means it isn't, that the battery is supplying the power. Apparently, ammeters, or the big wires that supply them, go bad sometimes. They just burn up. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15680-mysterious-burnt-out-wires-under-dash/
  28. WTB CAM core

    I've got a spare L28 that I can crack open for you this weekend. Should be in good shape, was running a few months ago.
  1. Load more activity