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4200 engine update. Progress pics of my intake. almost ready to go to the polisher!

Today I got the motor mounts all done. I used my idea of holding a spare crossmember with spacers under the engine to make the mounts. 3 inches clears the steering rack with a hair of space. I used LS mounts I found on ebay for 32 bucks, and had to chop them up a bit to make them so they would weld over 1.4" steel plate that was cut and drilled to fit the 4200 block. The metal spans that it came with were too short, so I used a length of 3/16 steel bar and cut and drilled them. Then using the bolt, one at a time I pushed them up to the plate and used a sharpie to draw the angle then removed them and cut them down. You have to remember to mark everything so when apart, you don't get pieces mixed up, as the sides are not identical. After that, I boxed up my core transmission and then cleaned up a bit and headed to the other garage for 260 work. I ground off remaining brackets and other pieces that still needed to be removed in the engine compartment, then used a DA sander to get it all sanded down. The old paint etc....well 80 grit wouldn't even phase it, so I had to use 60 grit. I was able to get everything sanded down except for the corners and tight spaces. I have an elliptical sander I bought that I will use next to get all the corners sanded out with 150 grit, then go over what I finished today to let that 150 grit smooth out any sanding marks. After that, I will then slick all the panels with Dolphin glaze, and sand the entire deal in 220 grit. Then 3-4 coats of sandable filler primer to fill in any imperfections, then color, then 2-3 coats of clear. A lot of work, very dirty, but progress was made. Pics:

As I’ve documented on this forum before I got kind of stift by the auction company and the previous owner of my 77 280z. The frame rails are rusted and need replacement to pass inspection and something is wrong with the rear suspension. I’m trying to not spend too much money at the moment but still want good parts that will stay on the car trough out the build as doing thing twice costs more in the long run. I will have to take the car to a body shop to get the frame rails welded so I’ll be looking to get pre made frame rails to save on labor cost. That gives me two choices, 1,5mm thick reproduction rails from KF vintage or the 3mm thick rails from Apex. The KF rails are send trough a warehouse in Spain so that saves a lot on import cost for me but the Apex rails are twice as thick which may give the almost 50 year old car some much needed strength and rigidity. Does anybody have the Apex rails on there car and how are they holding up? As for the rear suspension the question is if it is the chassis itself that’s crooked or something in the suspension. As I can’t find many stories of bend chassis online I’ll take the bet that it’s the rear suspension. That means I’ll have to look for adjustable rear control arms. That way even if the chassis itself is a little bit crooked I can tune it out for now till the car will be fully restored. Again that search let me back to Apex, there was also Silver Project from Europe which was a lot cheaper but I don’t hear much good from them. Has anybody installed the rear (or front) control arms from Apex with mostly stock suspension? I currently have a list of products form Apex which interests me and I’ll probably wait till Black Friday to see if they got any good deals. I don’t know if I’ll order everything but the frame rails and rear control arms I’ll probably order. This is what I’m interested in at the moment: - Frame rails - Rear control arms - Fender brace (If the car gets welded anyway, why not) - Rear strut brace - Front control arms - Low profile outer tie rods (I run 15” atm) - Inner tie rods (because of the threat difference) - Steering knuckles All combined should give the chassis and suspension a nice upgrade and the adjustability I need to get the car on the road. I do plan on keeping the four lug setup and the coilovers that are currently on the car. I do like there coilovers but That may be too much money for now. Yesterday I contacted Apex Engineered with some questions and they claim that the suspension components I’m looking at do work with the stock components. Are there people on here running Apex components (except the track attack kits) and what is your opinion on them.

The frame rails are nothing special except folded metal. You could make a pattern from heavy card stock and have them created locally and save a lot of money. Those would fit your car exactly. That will save you the tarrifs and the shipping. 1,5 mm thick rails should be more than enough. The other option is to split structural square tube and if you can't find a sheet metal shop. That will probably be more expensive, but is an option. The fender brace is a very simple item you could save money having made locally too. I helped a friend with a street car project and rather than weld items to the unibody and increase the potential for rust we opted to use some of the structural adhesives that new cars get built with. It's been on the car for 15 years and seems to be holding up well. Hope this helps, Cary

I am planning to do it the right way but finding a body shop that can straighten the car is a bit difficult. I was always planning to fully strip, repair, straighten and repaint the car at some point but if it’s possible I would like to at least be able to drive the car on the road. Seeing as I don’t have a car trailer and “officially” my daily driver isn’t allowed to tow more then 1400kg it would be a lot easier to transport the car to body shops under its own power. And for that I need an valid inspection…. Instead of diving head first into an full restauration, which will take years and tens of thousands of euro’s in one go, I’m just trying to spread out the costs and take it on piece by piece. I would like to at least enjoy the car for a bit and attend some meetings in my 280z instead of my Opel Astra diesel estate. Seeing as most parts come from the US it’s a big hurdle to buy. Shipping is very expensive, there is a 4,5% import cost and then a 21% tax on the total amount. In all I pay 50% more than someone from the US for parts. This also gives me time to calm down the misses a bit as she only sees the dollar signs flying away. I have seen this spiral before and I don’t want to end up with a stranded project. I want to keep my Z for life and I will take care of her.

Whatever frame rails you choose, have them put on by a body shop that can straighten your unibody first. You shouldn't have to use non stock parts to correct a tweaked unibody car - that's poor economics.

I started at dark this morning, and got the seats, center console and dash out of the 260Z. prepped the holes in dash and they are now plugged and curing. then I took some time and just gutted the whole area, to include the dash. Finished at 1:40 this afternoon.

A Chinese Metal Fabrication Company is planning to unveil a Brand New complete Early Model 240Z body at the 2025 SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas on Nov 4-7. They are looking for Distributors in North America. Just consider, even if you do not need the whole body assembly, they have to created every sheet metal body stamping of the 240Z. So almost any 240Z, no matter how corroded or damaged could be bought back to life. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DOxdQynjijn/?igsh=MWk4N280Nm1zOXI= I will be attending the SEMA SHOW and will post pictures and more information when I return from the show. Please watch for my post show postings- Tool Man

There's a shop near me that has been advertising pre-buys for these bodies(and others). I get the impression that they're working with the manufacturer.

Feels like the options for smaller wheels are just becoming impossible to find, at least in the US. Europe and Japan still have lots of small new cars, so I think they have a couple more options. Even the more popular size Miatas use in 225/45/15 I can only find in 200tw, but they're so much shorter than stock, I think they always look terrible and out of proportion on the Z Potenza sport looks okay. I think the 052 is out of the question as a 200tw, but moreso because of the cost. I'm trying to keep it under $200 per tire so I can spare some change for the wheels. Right now I'm thinking of the Continental Extreme Contact Sport 02. They're 340tw, but supposedly slightly better on the comfort than most other options, which I have started to care more about now that the car is much nicer haha. Know the Toyo Proxes R1R are popular for some guys running 16s, but they're only in a 225/45 profile. I appreciate the support! I know many posts have nothing people can really respond to, so sometimes it feels like you're just typing into the wind, so I appreciate that people have been enjoying the build all these years.

Update - The Kumho tires I was using as a street option are no longer available. It looks like the only tire options in 225/50 are all 200 treadwear or under, so basically track only. I'd be interested in a couple of the 200tw options, but it seems like a lot of wear and expensive for a cruiser, so it looks like moving up to 16" wheels is the only option now