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12-16-2025. Drum Sander. I have been advised to use a drum sander, as it is easier on the sheet metal than a flap disc on an angle grinder. Well, yes it is! However, even at 40 grit, I finished the roof, started on a rocker and a few other spots and wore that drum half way out! Pics follow, you can see the difference comparing both methods side to side. I also took a couple pics to show how it will look ran over with a DA on 80 grit to prep it for filler. DUSTY! closer to starting the blocking.

Got it off Amazon: https://amzn.to/4aS32Br And picked up a male pigtail off eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134129914749 I actually replaced the wiper arms too. I used 93 miata arms which bolt up to the stock datsun wipers mechanism. Passenger arm is a little long so I may shorten it. For wiring, I followed this guide: https://www.electronixandmore.com/resources/automobiles/datsun/index.html Note this is very specific to the later wiring for 1978(maybe 1977 too) and would not be applicable to earlier years.

I have two Datsun 240Z cars both with stock body running 245 45's on 16" x 8" rims with no flares. I find it funny where people flare their car yet do not make use of the extra space. I also like Z cars with flares but why do it unless you get the right offset to maximize the tire size?

Been a while since I posted any updates. Been moving along. For the Turbo car I decided to build my own wheels. Ill CNC machine the center sections myself and have the lips and barrels spun for me. I really like the old SSR RS8 wheels but finding them in the correct bolt pattern, offset, and caliper clearance is impossible. I fould a set close, from Japan and had them shipped over. Since this car uses Z31 hubs and such, the spacing is out much more than a standard Z so I need a bit more positive offset. I dissasembled the wheels and scanned the center section into my computer and reverse engineered the shape. Next I re-assembled them and had the 245-45-16 tires Im going to use mounted. I test fitted them to the car, and close, but not good enough. This is the fist time this chassis has been rolling on its own wheels in 27 years. Its been on a cart or a lift. Felt good to see some progress now that the suspension, brakes, and cross-memeber are finally complete Scanned this complete assembly and put it in CAD. Now I have the exact shape of the tire on the rim. Cool cross section of it. Finally I scanned the side of the car, put it into CAD. Now I can adjust my wheel center offset for caliper clearance, and adjust it to work with new Lips and Barrels I will order for the proper offset and fit to the car. Having it in CAD alowed me to look at it from every angle and check all clearances, for calipers, springs wheels lip, ect. Even compressing the suspension to make sure I have fender clearance at full travel Final wheel spec is: Rear - 5 lug = 245-45-16 on 8.5" width rim- 27mm positive offset, 2.25" outer lip on the rim Front - 5 lug = 245-45-16 on 8.5" width rim - 31mm positive offset 1.75" outer lip on the rim Next I need to find some time to program the CNC and start cutting chips. But I got distracted on the NA car, so that update is next.

At Harbor Freight they have carbon stipping discs for the angle grinder. It takes the paint off like nothing and does not damage the panels at all. it actually polishes the metal so don't forget to hit with some 80 grit to get the mechanical bond back. I also have the drum sander version from HF also and it strips paint like nothing!! https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-non-woven-paint-and-strip-abrasive-wheel-70419.html great job on the progress!

Dual L6 knock sensors using the stock block m6 hot water pipe mounts. They are actually about perfectly placed! These are just ti prototype. I am designing my own and will be adding them to the things I make and sell.

So that was a lie. Better late then never I suppose...