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Been a while since I posted any updates. Been moving along. For the Turbo car I decided to build my own wheels. Ill CNC machine the center sections myself and have the lips and barrels spun for me. I really like the old SSR RS8 wheels but finding them in the correct bolt pattern, offset, and caliper clearance is impossible. I fould a set close, from Japan and had them shipped over. Since this car uses Z31 hubs and such, the spacing is out much more than a standard Z so I need a bit more positive offset. I dissasembled the wheels and scanned the center section into my computer and reverse engineered the shape. Next I re-assembled them and had the 245-45-16 tires Im going to use mounted. I test fitted them to the car, and close, but not good enough. This is the fist time this chassis has been rolling on its own wheels in 27 years. Its been on a cart or a lift. Felt good to see some progress now that the suspension, brakes, and cross-memeber are finally complete Scanned this complete assembly and put it in CAD. Now I have the exact shape of the tire on the rim. Cool cross section of it. Finally I scanned the side of the car, put it into CAD. Now I can adjust my wheel center offset for caliper clearance, and adjust it to work with new Lips and Barrels I will order for the proper offset and fit to the car. Having it in CAD alowed me to look at it from every angle and check all clearances, for calipers, springs wheels lip, ect. Even compressing the suspension to make sure I have fender clearance at full travel Final wheel spec is: Rear - 5 lug = 245-45-16 on 8.5" width rim- 27mm positive offset, 2.25" outer lip on the rim Front - 5 lug = 245-45-16 on 8.5" width rim - 31mm positive offset 1.75" outer lip on the rim Next I need to find some time to program the CNC and start cutting chips. But I got distracted on the NA car, so that update is next.

Good work! You seem to be making some great progress these last few weeks. As for me I just got my 280z to run a bit better. Today my final part from Apex Engineered should come is so I will strip the car this weekend so the car can be send off to the body shop.

Looks good! Atlas is going to look great under the hood! Have you seen @Invincibleextremes 8.8 differential kit? then you can lay the power down, lol. Keep up the work, you've got a cool build going

Next I need to pull my current engine as I need the oil pan from it along with the new timing chain guilds and oil pump and everything else. Thats new from when i built it a year or so ago. With it being a front sump I'm going to look into adding some oil baffling of some sort. I cant remember if there is any. Need to button up my 4n71b Jatco from the 84 300zx turbo and finish the inner hub for my adjustable cam gear. But I cant finish that till I pull the old trans as I need the bellhousing. Then I go down the rabbit hole of needing a new driveshaft but also wanting to swap in a 8.8 out of an ford explorer... ..

The head is an E88 casting which came from a 240z. So, that opening was there for the stock fuel pump already. Though not a desirable head as is, this one has been milled quite a bit to get the combustion chambers to be usable for this engine set up.

DJHsuperZ The pics are fantastic of your build. Actually did not take you very long to completion since you purchased the MFactory LSD. The fabrications along the way are really spot on. Great choice on the stubs and axles . Have to say congratulations on a mighty fine build. Enjoy the ride you deserve it. Chip JDMPowerhouse

12-01-2025. First day of December. My right side headlight bucket I ordered form Z Car Depot came in, VERY nice part. Also a new set of front and rear side marker lamps. Why restore the old ones when new ones are available and affordable! My new 260Z fender badges should also arrive in the next day or so. Cool stuff.

I bought, and installed my new Mfactory Helical lsd ... I also installed techno toys 4340 billet stub axils that i did have to make 4mm spacers where the bearing is pressed on against the flat plate side with wheel studs other wise the plate would tighten up against the bearing housing locked to where it would not spin freely , and I also used OEM 300zxt axils that were in fantastic shape like new internals i installed new grease ,and boots flipped the bearing cage on passanger side axil ,and painted them .... the adapters were from silvermine motorsports i came up with a method to center the companion flanges to adapters by using jb weld and using a digital measuring caliper to center before jb weld hardened holding the companion flange in a vice and putting the 300zxt adapter on top while jb weld cured to hold parts in position for welding ... i used a 2 1/2 thick machined flat large metal plate with 5 clamps to hold the companion flang ,and 300zxt adapter round plate tight with force on the 2 1/2 inch metal plate for welding process to keep every thing from warping, and it worked perfectly . I left it clamped until everything cooled down after welding ... The adapter ,and companion flange after this clamped welding run /spin true flat with no up and down or side play in movement while spinning zero vibration while running on the car .. every thing is worked out pretty good so far every time my TCI street fighter 700r4 hits 2nd gear both rear tires bark posi , and around the corners it feels great tracks fantastic ... some pictures

More pis of it finished up The bottom plate was beat up a bit and bent from floor jacks. So I took off the old one by drilling out the spot welds. I then drew up the shape and had a new one laser cut. The center plate that is welded to this plate, I re-made it as well, but out of 304 stainless steel. This way I can leave it a brushed stainless finish after powder coating and it is a good place to use a floor jack. I then spot welded on the larger plate in the original locations I then tigged the seam between the spot welds Then tigged on the center stainless plate Then blasted the entire cross member and powder coated it in a super black semi gloss powder coat. Powder coated the motor mounts as well I always first do a primer powder coat that is sandable I sand most off this off to fill the small blemeshes Then final coat Finally the brushed stainless plate for the floor jack Next up is getting a new transmission, then finishing the exhaust

I finished up the front crossmember and motor mounts Started with a stock crossmember with the need for new engine mounting since I moved the engine in the chassis back about 1 inch. I extended and boxed in the existing upright Some grinding and blasting to clean it up 3 D printed mockup of a machined bracket I made to accept the moustache bar busings. I designed these years ago and have been in the NA car for 15 years. Worked well I machined this weld in bracket out of a solid chunk of steel because I wanted the details for the bolt holes and you could not do that with bent sheet metal. Stupid but fun. More soon