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jpndave

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jpndave last won the day on September 29 2017

jpndave had the most liked content!

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About jpndave

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  • Birthday December 1

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    http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123712-240z-pro-touring-build/

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    Male
  • Location
    Hyde Park, UT
  • Interests
    73 240Z owned for 30+yrs(my high school car). Doing a full makeover now, Voodoo/T56 Magnum, Suspension, Brakes, etc.

    2007 Jeep JK Unlimited, LS3/6L80E/242AMG https://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?77265-Jeep-JK-Unlimited-quot-Transformer-quot-6-2L-quot-LS3-quot-GM-build

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  1. Beautiful car Mark! Yours has been an inspiration for my build. Love the red. Just noticed the LED front turn signals. Nice touch there. I've always hated the side markers on my car. Planned on eliminating them front and rear using the stock lower early lights for some side coverage up front and a Ferrari tail light that sticks slightly out in the rear. Yours mounted flush look nice. There are so many details that I notice another every time I look at your photos. Thanks for sharing.
  2. jpndave

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    Here are two views of the nodular diff from my build thread here even though I'm using the aluminum case, they look the same. Need to update the photos. I have opened up the case to look at the Torsen and Limited slip. I'll try and get photos of both versions. Does this help to see why Invincibleextremes is so stoked about the prospect? Look at the strength of the pickup points and the just the ease of mounting the thing in there. Plus it's stronger case and internals, across the board. Factory and aftermarket support is great as every new body style Mustang gets it in one form or another. Aluminum behind the automatic smaller engine cars, Nodular in the upper models, Torsen in the race package and limited slip as far as I know it across the board unless it gets the Torsen T2.
  3. jpndave

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    We have this if you need any reference dimensions. Complete subframe drop. Probably won't be using much of it but it wasn't really any more $ and we can reference the complete assembly for mockup. We're considering the hubs and brakes, tried to get the carriers to work too but I think it will compromise geometry too much for those parts. If we can get the hubs/calipers/rotors to work, ABS might be doable as well. I'm just concerned a bit with the stagger I was planning as it might throw off the ABS computer. We'll see, need to get the house/shop done and get some time to test fit up parts. JD is further along on his rotisserie and that will certainly make it a lot easier. This assembly is his other than the aluminum case as he's using the nodular one for strength. I'm chancing it to save weight and my power will hit differently, not as hard down low, more on top. Fingers crossed I don't regret it. Just need it to hold 500 at the tires. We're planning to tie all the structure together front to back including a mild cage so integrating pickup points for the mounts will be in that plan. Doesn't make for stock bolt in compatibility like your design. If we can retain that we will but I really doubt it. This one doesn't have the upgraded calipers but it does have the vented rotors. The stock A-Arm setup is a little goofy with the extra linkage on it. I think we'll be fabbing that to fit. Center for sure but anything else that's usable is a plus as it is there and paid for. Let me know if I'm hijacking too much here.
  4. jpndave

    Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too

    The Super 8.8 certainly shows the most promise of any of the differentials I've seen. Better/stronger/easier mounting points. Stronger all around, easy to pick up a takeout reasonably priced. Good aftermarket support (it's a mustang). All of this is just going to be better as time marches on since every new mustang uses it. @1969hondaand I are working on a version using these diffs for our cars. We have iron and aluminum cases as well as limited slip and torsion centers. We're going all out on suspension/hubs/brakes with A-arm suspension rather than struts but mounting up the center will be a commonality no matter what is done outside that. We also have a complete Mustang sub-frame (he does) for reference and have toyed with using as many of the parts possible. I'm using aluminum center, Torsen T2, 3.73 as it matches up to my T56 Magnum ratios and Voodoo power range. @1969honda Is iron center, limited slip and 3.15 or 3.31 to better match his setup, more bottom power, less stratosphere RPM, different T56 ratios. One additional positive not mentioned is that with mustang parts even if you want upgraded Wilwood or whatever performance brakes they are readily available. The new stock stuff is no slouch in the performance department. And that's on a mustang, take off 1000-1500 lbs and it just gets better. Once we fixture up, we can share designs or parts as interest dictates. Seems like you are headed in a good direction here. The thing is here on this site we have everything from R180 upgrade to supercar builds. Your universal take should go a long way no matter the direction a particular build is headed and allows upgrades to the outers later as necessary. I agree that welding shafts is a really bad idea. Resplined as a budget starting point up to 930 CV/300M shafts at the top end. Keep up the good work, Dave
  5. jpndave

    ZF/Ford 6HP80 behind a LS?

    I don't have time to give a super detailed reply. The 6L80E is an exceptional unit but I'm not sure how well it would fit/function in the Z. I absolutely LOVE the trans in my Jeep. Super low first gear and double overdrive. "Learning/adaptive" shifts, very responsive. I'm in the process of putting the later Corvette version which will be upgraded a little in my JK behind a stroker LS3 based (with VVT) 6.8L. It is a very large and heavy transmission. Tall and large girth. I suspect the transmission tunnel would require substantial modifications. It communicates via the CAN bus and doesn't base shifts on conventional inputs which is what allows clutch to clutch shifting and the adaptive learning that makes it work so well. Simple it's not but that seems to be the way things are going. MUCH more efficient than a 4L80 based unit. I have quite a bit of experience with those and the upgrades/alternate gearsets, etc. The 6L80E standalone I am familiar with and they claim to be all that. I don't have personal experience with it and am not sure if the claims are backed. I am only aware of one company making the unit and would suspect others are "re-branded" boxes which happens a lot in that world. I have toyed with the idea of going to Gen 5 and the 8L90 but I'm not sure how much there it to be had with the increased gear splits given the broad power delivery I have and don't really find gaps with my current setup. The 2 points of overdrive would be nice but I don't think it would be worth the cost and complexity. First is already killer low and with the new billet converter it will be even more torque multiplication. I'll try ad review your tread and offer a more succinct and to the point reply rather than the above ramblings but saw @1969honda reference and thought I would throw out a few thoughts.
  6. I agree with Derek on what it seems you are after finish wise. Unless you coat the parts a vibratory polish/burnish is going to be the way to do. I would be careful with soda. I haven't used it but I have a good friend that is in high end paint for custom cars and he is adamant against it. Definitely more delicate at removal of rust and paint while not damaging the surface it can leave residue. Have you considered a really high quality clear coat? The bead blasted parts won't stay that clean color and texture. Aluminum will corrode over the years unless it is somehow coated or anodized. You could also clear anodize which might be a good choice. I'm not sure how much corrosion resistance if any the vibratory media would provide and how much residue is left preventing an anodize or paint. With as much work as you have put into this project I would certainly want it to stay that way. I am chemically stripping my car then blasting what that misses. Aluminum will be bead blasted for texture then probably clear coated or anodized to prevent corrosion. If I had access (meaning reasonably priced without having to send it out at full shop rate) to the Vibratory finish Derek is showing I would really consider that option. I have two blasters in my shop both a cabinet and pressure pot and a compressor large enough to run either all day long. I just can't justify paying for something I can do here. I don't mind the dull finish as long as it is clean and even and protected from corrosion. The rifle project I mentioned is going to get a nickel boron plate after engraving trying to get as close to the stainless barrel as possible. That finish is outstanding at corrosion resistance and lubricity but is really expensive to have done. OK on small parts but would be obscene overkill for car part castings, at least for covers and housings.
  7. jpndave

    Project Binkey

    Outstanding! Thanks for posting it up. My 11yr. old has even been enjoying watching these with me.
  8. jpndave

    Cold Air Induction

    I'd be a little careful with the silicone parts. I have one purchased for an intake and is really flexible, evan collapsible still sitting on a shelf. I ended up sourcing a nice rubber type material that holds its shape much better. On a pressure/boosted side of a system they would be great but not so much with a vacuum on a normal aspirated. Some may be reinforced which would help.
  9. Glass beads are really just a different shape being round rather than rough like silica sand, less abrasive. It isn't the same as say "shot peening". In my experience, the dull appearance is normal. The beads do remove less material and are less abrasive, giving more of a matte finish almost a dull sheen. The actual sand depending on grit is similar in appearance but much more aggressive and rough in finish texture. Sand will remove more material and leave a rougher finish. Keep in mind as well that the "glass" beads break as they are used in the cabinet and are no longer round as does the sand which depending on the material of choice may become less aggressive or more as they break into smaller pieces. Silica sand loses its sharp edges and bite. Garnet, and other materials behave differently. All of this is assuming it was blasted in a cabinet where the material was used over and over. If done outside with one hit, things will behave more consistent as you only get the original material hitting your part. Usually the cabinet is used as media gets expensive if it's a one shot deal and also messy. Your photos do look consistent with glass beads. You could roll that media in your fingers to see if some are round or if all of it is rough and jagged. As a an example, I am building a custom lever action rifle and will use the glass beads in a cabinet to just texture an already clean aluminum receiver. Low air pressure and fine beads to get a light even matte finish without removing material is the goal. On parts like yours if they have to focus on removing dirt, grease or paint you could end up with material removal in certain areas if part is raw and part painted, the raw part will lose some material while they are trying to get the painted part to let go. Beads are less abrasive but also slower and less aggressive at removing the junk while tending to leave a less rough matte finish. Beads will also tend to close up the surface a little like shot peening rather than open it up to better accept paint. Shot peening is more a of a hardness treatment rather than to clean. I don't know of any media except for maybe shot peening that would leave a part shiny from blasting. Shot peening is like thousands of tiny hammer hits. I hope that helps and anyone with more extensive experience is more than welcome to clarify anything that I may be missing here. Sorry I got a little wordy there. Your project is coming along and it's nice to see the progress and quality of work. Dave
  10. Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support and the burst to make it up. I have been super busy with building a new house/shop and totally missed all the potential shut down. Read up last night and was really impressed by all the rallying support. I have personally just donated the recommended amount every year. from shortly after I got back into my 240Z project and found this site. I don't financially support many of these forums but this site is really a great place to be with great people and information so I felt it was important to support. Let me know if I can help out. Dave
  11. jpndave

    78 280Z LS3 Project

    Very nice. Always enjoy seeing your updates.
  12. I missed this the first time around. If you do another run I'd be in for a hoodie and shirt.
  13. jpndave

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    Too late on the transmission but that was a deal I couldn't pass up. It was a trade deal at like half price. I'll agree on getting parts more as needed, especially this particular engine as prices will only come down. I'd love to see a direct inject version of it too. Sadly I've had too much experience with cutting edge parts that ultimately ended up on eBay because something better came out or I changed directions. I have a whole pro-street Harley/Ducati project I need to sell along with a bunch of other project's cool parts. There is a huge amount of work to do before the engine holds progress up. It will probably get a Coyote initially for mock up and the fact I can actually make money selling that engine if truck based when I find the right Voodoo. I need to focus on the shell, structure, suspension and body first. Most of that I have parts for or won't require substantial investment. Don't get me wrong I would LOVE to just see a Voodoo sitting in that engine bay but you are all too right about "cart before the horse". Thanks for the comment and following along.
  14. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. All the hidden carbon wouldn't be anywhere near as affected by UV light on the resins. Painted with all the WOW still seen when you open her up sounds super cool to me!
  15. jpndave

    240Z Pro-Touring Build

    Thanks for the input Ryan but that would kind of defeat the point of the build. It may get a Coyote temporarily. I have a set of rods for one already so I could use a truck based engine even earlier years and might even make a bit of $ when it comes out to go towards the Voodoo. Long term, I'd just do an LS if that were the goal. I'm intimately familiar with the platform, have lots of parts, etc. But, I want the sound, high RPM revs and the way the power delivers from that flat plane crank. 500hp to the wheels will be great and the car might actually start out without completely being out of control. Will it cost quite a bit more? Pretty sure that will be the case. This isn't a budget build. Sadly not a very fast one either. Hopefully some updates will come in the near future. We're working on the 8.8 from the new mustangs and are getting closer on that project. Just moved it over to my new shop/garage for storage while I finish up the house and get everything else moved over. Thought I had a rotisserie all sorted but 1969honda came up with a better idea so I may go that route instead. Collecting a few pieces here and there. Just no time to dive in until the house is done.
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