rossman

I'm with @calZ. I was scratching my head, thinking wtf kind of response is that? The man wants to have his car restored properly. What could possibly be wrong with that, and what do flares and spoilers have to do with it? It's his car he can do whatever the hell he wants. I'm just glad he takes the time to share it with us!

Awesome, congrats!

Sage advice from NewZed. I will add, regarding cams, that it's best to get a re-round cam not new. There is a guy named Bonk on the Fakebook forum "Church of the L". He sells custom re-ground cams and appears to have lots of happy customers on the forum. If you do use him he can give you some advice on setting up/running in the cam properly - as it's easy to do it wrong and trash the cam. Otherwise there is a lot of information on this forum on how to do it properly, you just have to dig a bit to find it (I use a Google search - "search term site:hybridz.org" When it comes to rockers, you want NOS or OEM/NISSAN, not regrinds. I have had reground rockers trash themselves and the cam. I installed new Nissan rockers and haven't had any issues since.

Hmm, that's a tough one. Anything you sandwich will conduct heat. You could try some ceramic washers/bushings at the bolt locations then place self-adhesive radiant barrier in the gap made by the washers, extending an inch or so around. Wrapping the turbine with a turbo blanker will help with radiant heat too.

I can't say that I've seen a turbo mounted rigidly to the body of the car. A couple of thoughts come to mind. Your bracket is going to transfer quite a bit of heat into the strut tower from conducted and radiant heat. Be prepared for paint to burn off and rust appear if you don't isolate the mount and protect the strut tower from with radiant heat shields. It's hard to tell from your pictures but the flex pipe you have leading up to the turbine appears to be one of those flexible tail pipes (not bellows). I don't think those are designed to take much or any pressure, especially when flexing due to the engine naturally moving on its engine mounts. I could be wrong but it may not last long. Anyway, good luck with it and let us know how it works! Maybe I'm full of shite, it would be the first time

You're not the first and probably won't be the last to make that mistake!

I think you're mixing metric and English units. Nissan spec is .008" and .010" (inches) cold. So you need to make the clearance smaller thus raising the post.

Nice! How is the flow out the center vent? I modded my 240 vent similarly but most of the air comes out the two side vents. I've thought about redoing mine with smooth hose to see it flow improves.

Congrats for getting her on the road!

I’d be pulling the front end apart until I found the culprit. Try taking a tube like an empty paper towel core, put your ear to it and move it around the area with the engine running to see if you can isolate the location of the sound. If you shine a flashlight down into the front cover you can see if the chain tensioner is in place.

Have you pulled the valve cover and checked to see if anything looks abnormal? Could the timing chain tensioner have fallen out of place? It's impossible to know without actually being there or hearing it in a quick video.

Wow! That first one will make a nice looking bookend! I bet the aluminum plate (6061-T6?) wasn't cheap. Seems like they would have started with cheaper material for the first article. Regardless, it'll be a very nice piece when done!

Seems like you'd have oil burning out the exhaust, especially just after a cold start if your valve stem seals are bad. You could try retorquing your head bolts in case your problem is a head gasket leak into the crankcase.

Most people including myself, simply plumb both the valve cover and block vents to a catch can.

The mustache bar should go on the aft side of the suspension uprights with the bushings facing forward...at least that is how it is on my setup with r200, 280z uprights, ttt mustache bar.