socorob

78 280z. Bought the TTT setup and had 250 front , 300 rear on konis. Felt too soft, swapped to 300 up front. It is slightly stiff but feels much better than the 250s. 250s are way too light for the rear. The shocks are probably around 2/3 compressed at ride height. Just bought 350s, haven't installed them to know if they are going to be too stiff, but at 1620 rear weight with me, spare, full tank, etc. it should be around 1/3 compressed at ride height.

I also added flex pipes at the same time as the cats. 1 after each header, and i where it Ys back into single exhaust by the diff. I wish I would have cut my 3 bolt flange off and welded on V bands to my headers before I installed them. Without the flex pipes, the flange bolts would always loosen up on me. I would have to tighten them up several times a year. The flex pipes seem to have lessened that. I put V bands before the front flex pipes and after the rear one, so I can drop out the whole center section of the exhaust.

I put 2 magnaflow high flow cats on mine, and it did cut down on the raspiness/drone and quieted the car slightly. Also lowered how much I smell like fumes after driving around in the car all day. Don't get a flowmaster muffler, these drone a lot.

Thats what I meant

I copied the following from the sloppy mechanics on facebook, so don't know personally for sure this will work: Someone used everything off the saturn but like 6" of the spline part that goes into the steering box. I used a NRG 177h steering wheel adapter (fits the saturn steering wheel spline) and aftermarket steering wheels. and for full disclosure- i had to trim off part of the nrg adapter, all the outer lip where the nrg logo is at on the amazon pic. but it was due to the housing that encloses my turn signal/wiper stalk assembly

These are for the earlier Z wipers that you just change the blades on.

Techno Toy Tuning or Apex Engineered have the tie rods. I got TTT to make mine longer so I could get as much camber as I would ever want. With the stock tie rod ends, I could barely get -1.5 camber with just maybe 1/2" threads left in the tie rods. I wasn't comfortable with such little engagement so I got the others and had them made longer. I'm sure apex would probably do the same if you ask.

The only thing about the Hoke kit is if you ever want to use the apex engineered cross member, I think you'd be out of luck. Or if for some reason you wreck your crossmember and his goes NLA.

What would be a good maximum caster for the Z assuming everything was adjustable, and nothing would rub or run out of thread length? I know some newer cars run fairly high caster.

What model are those seats, and what is the width of the seat bottom near the hinge, including the lever that tilts the seat? I have Miata seats set lower and they touch the tunnel and the lever touches the outer sill... I would like to find more supportive seats but need my seat to stay low.

Its for the ball blower under the steering column.

See how the top one has 2 small holes and the bottom one has 1? Mine only have 1 hole with a stud in it. Just by looking, I can't tell any other differences.

I have the TTT Q45 setup on my car, and I used the rear wheel hubs with bearings that I got from the car I pulled the rear setup out of. The car had 130000ish miles on it. I want to put new bearings on when I change my spring rate soon. There are left and right versions of these. Some I found don't specify if they are right or left, several say right only, and I have yet to see one that says left. The part number from a lot of manufacturers seem to be 511011. Looks like it was used in the Q45 and Z32 Turbo. The non turbo Z32 has a similar looking hub, but from what I can tell has a smaller bore. I really would like to just get bearings and press them in, not get a whole hub. I see in pictures online these part numbers marked on the bearings: NTN HUB030 OL AB245WX 511011 MB BH511011 38030316 Does anyone have a part number for just replacement bearings for these, or for a left hand hub? It seems like the only difference that I can discern between the left and the right is the single little stud sticking out of the top. In the photos on some replacements, they show 2 holes in the top where it looks like you could press your stud out and put it on the side you need it to be on. Am I correct in thinking this? I want to have the parts in hand before I tear the car apart. Nothing worse than tearing something apart and not having the right parts to put it back together.

I have a deep tire well that was removed by drilling spot wells. It was painted and has no rust. I'm not sure what year but it didn't fit my car. I have the 78 with t he shallow well.

My friend took his tank to a radiator shop that dipped the tank and then sealed it. I think it wasn't that much more than buying the stuff and trying to do it yourself. He did the try it yourself with a chain but it didn't get everything out and clogged his injectors, so the sealer kit plus injector cleaning costed him more than taking it to a place.