socorob

I think this year was the pinnacle, I'm sorry I had to miss it because it will probably never be this good again. It was at a time of year with decent weather, not when its 150 outside, combined with Znationals and at Road Atlanta... what could possibly top that?

Get a flat steering wheel with no dish, that's probably a good 2" right there.

Theres a guy on youtube I saw a while back that says he road races his corvette. He had a nice setup, said it works well. All I can remember was he used this cap. http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/clean-side-oil-separator/?fbclid=IwAR2WGZ9Lf5t0tKaDdAQg1YXPCqvKwETUDb7OfuIhG_4Or_PMXpM1ZetCEAk If I can find the guys vidoes, I'll post it here.

Can you show a picture or drawing of that routing?

78 280z. Bought the TTT setup and had 250 front , 300 rear on konis. Felt too soft, swapped to 300 up front. It is slightly stiff but feels much better than the 250s. 250s are way too light for the rear. The shocks are probably around 2/3 compressed at ride height. Just bought 350s, haven't installed them to know if they are going to be too stiff, but at 1620 rear weight with me, spare, full tank, etc. it should be around 1/3 compressed at ride height.

I also added flex pipes at the same time as the cats. 1 after each header, and i where it Ys back into single exhaust by the diff. I wish I would have cut my 3 bolt flange off and welded on V bands to my headers before I installed them. Without the flex pipes, the flange bolts would always loosen up on me. I would have to tighten them up several times a year. The flex pipes seem to have lessened that. I put V bands before the front flex pipes and after the rear one, so I can drop out the whole center section of the exhaust.

I put 2 magnaflow high flow cats on mine, and it did cut down on the raspiness/drone and quieted the car slightly. Also lowered how much I smell like fumes after driving around in the car all day. Don't get a flowmaster muffler, these drone a lot.

Thats what I meant

I copied the following from the sloppy mechanics on facebook, so don't know personally for sure this will work: Someone used everything off the saturn but like 6" of the spline part that goes into the steering box. I used a NRG 177h steering wheel adapter (fits the saturn steering wheel spline) and aftermarket steering wheels. and for full disclosure- i had to trim off part of the nrg adapter, all the outer lip where the nrg logo is at on the amazon pic. but it was due to the housing that encloses my turn signal/wiper stalk assembly

These are for the earlier Z wipers that you just change the blades on.

Techno Toy Tuning or Apex Engineered have the tie rods. I got TTT to make mine longer so I could get as much camber as I would ever want. With the stock tie rod ends, I could barely get -1.5 camber with just maybe 1/2" threads left in the tie rods. I wasn't comfortable with such little engagement so I got the others and had them made longer. I'm sure apex would probably do the same if you ask.

The only thing about the Hoke kit is if you ever want to use the apex engineered cross member, I think you'd be out of luck. Or if for some reason you wreck your crossmember and his goes NLA.

What would be a good maximum caster for the Z assuming everything was adjustable, and nothing would rub or run out of thread length? I know some newer cars run fairly high caster.

What model are those seats, and what is the width of the seat bottom near the hinge, including the lever that tilts the seat? I have Miata seats set lower and they touch the tunnel and the lever touches the outer sill... I would like to find more supportive seats but need my seat to stay low.

Its for the ball blower under the steering column.