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Everything posted by Enginerd81

  1. Enginerd81

    Split second loss of power

    I am running Megasquirt 2 wired in similar to below wiring diagram with an 83 distributor and using the MAP sensor. Under very light/cruising conditions the power will suddenly drop out then come right back. Makes for a sudden jerk as driving. Took it to a track day last year and didn't have any problems at continuous WOT. As I type this I thought a deadspot in the TPS (although it was new 2 years ago when I installed MS) I'll check that tomorrow morning. Any other ideas that I could look for or check? Thanks, bryan
  2. Enginerd81

    Rear end upgrades

    i am looking into the 300zxt and cave built set up - How did it work out Invincible?
  3. Enginerd81

    Split second loss of power

    Looks like I need to pull the ecu and put a jumper wire to get it into boot loader mode. I'll probably do that next weekend. Bryan
  4. Enginerd81

    Split second loss of power

    Thanks! I will get that done today and report back with new logs. To answer previous questions - Nothing edited and I'm using paid versions of log viewer and tuner studio. Bryan
  5. Enginerd81

    Split second loss of power

    Here are 2 examples. It looks like MAP is getting funky readings. One spike high and one spike low. Examples are right at the end of the logs. Thanks, Bryan Disregard 2nd image. Can't seem to figure out how to get rid of it. 2018-04-21_18.59.46.msl 2018-04-21_19.01.49.msl
  6. Enginerd81

    Split second loss of power

    haven't gotten a chance to data log yet. Assume I should log FI pulse width and Spark advance? Bryan
  7. Enginerd81

    ISO L28ET Stock Injectors

    I have a set as well that was cleaned 5ish years ago LMK
  8. Looking for some feedback on my plans. Current setup: F54/P90 280zx and turbo Megasquirt 2 - 440cc injectors Evo 8 intercooler 14psi 3" exhaust Goals - 300-350HP Use - 95% street car, with 1 track day per year Due to too many car projects and minimal car space I need to minimize the non-driveable cars. In order to do this I wanted to use the spare block that came with car when I bought it. I had it cleaned and inspected. It is an N42 block, the engine builder stated everything was in great shape except the rod journals that need .25mm to get back to in print clearances. He has suggested re-using the pistons that came out of the block given their good condition and has given me the part number for some Hastings piston rings for the NA block as a recommendation. Questions: Is there an issue with using the dished NA N42 Pistons with NA piston rings for the horsepower I'm looking for? Car seen here: and
  9. Enginerd81

    N42 Turbo Motor Build Questions

    Thanks for the replies - I'll have the machine shop move forward. Zhoob that was great info - thanks. TimZ - What have you done to your engine/what is power output? Thanks, B.
  10. Enginerd81

    5spd front cover lip seal

    I am refreshing the seals/gaskets on my trans and when I pulled the lip seal out of the front cover it appeared to be in backwards. I've worked with reciprocating pumps for many years and the lip of the seal always points towards the fluid you want to keep in. When I pulled the seal out the lip of the seal was pointing towards the engine. Can someone confirm which direction is correct? Pictures show both sides of seal. Thanks, Bryan
  11. Enginerd81

    5spd front cover lip seal

    Thanks for all the responses! Clear as day now. Bryan
  12. Enginerd81

    5spd front cover lip seal

    the 2nd photo is how the last one came out. I didn't consider there being a taper that the seal actually mated up with. Any other votes for 2nd photo? B.
  13. Enginerd81

    Shifter boot seal 5 speed

    Quick and easy question - I'm putting my trans back together, disassembled to reseal/gasket/oring to get rid of leaks, and wondered if there is supposed to be anything used to secure the boot that on the shifter: http://www.zcarsource.com/uimages/product_photos/clutch/1410169.jpg The factory manual doesn't show anything and there was a zip tie on it when I disassembled it. Wondering if it supposed to be sealing all on its own at the base or if others have used a hose clamp/CV boot clam or other. Thanks Bryan
  14. Enginerd81

    1978 280z 2+2 parting out (SOLD)

    Do you have the roof panel that goes right in front of the hatch? Has the cut out for the dome light. If so condition? Bryan
  15. Drivers side is completely separated so I really need 1. Passenger side I can see separation starting. Edit: this is what I'm looking for http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4382 Let me know if you've got 1 or 2 good ones and price shipped to 49078. Thanks, Bryan
  16. Enginerd81

    Need pair of 280Z rear strut insulators

    Got a set, consider this one closed. Bryan
  17. Enginerd81

    Recommend a racing helmet

    2 ways to look at it: 1. Get the latest SA 2015 or 2010 that you can. That way you're covered for any auto event anywhere for a longer period of time. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/FullFaceHelmets Trade off is SA helmets should not be used for motorcycling - size of the eyeport being the usually sited downside. 2. If you're really confident you'll never venture outside of things that allow M2000+ and want a dual purpose helmet (what I currently have for autox and motorcycling) get an M helmet. Snell FAQ http://www.smf.org/helmetfaq#aSAMKdiff
  18. Enginerd81

    Any Canadians Here?

    Not a Canadian, but an American living in Ontario! Living in Burlington for the next few years for work. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123459-fresh-paint-job-280z-22/ Bryan
  19. Enginerd81

    L28ET running lean

    is it giving signs of misfiring? bad spark/no combustion will give lean readings. symptoms happened as soon as you finished cooling system work? Bryan
  20. Enginerd81

    Seat Swap

    Try this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88301-seat-swap-list-for-s30s/ Bryan
  21. Enginerd81

    WTB fuel/volt meter for '76

    Looking to buy a good condition fuel/volt meter as the face of mine is all burned up. Located in Ontario but have a US shipping address as well. Thanks, Bryan
  22. Enginerd81

    Should I relocate this O2 bung on a downpipe I bought?

    The risk of water build up is more at cold starts - Standard combustion by products mostly H2O and CO2. When the surfaces are cold the water vapor created in the combustion chamber can condense on them and run to the lowest point. I'm not sure if the risk is from errant readings from a wet sensor or some sort of damage to the sensor over constant wet/dry conditions. Once everything warms up this problem goes away as the water has nothing to condense on that close to the engine.
  23. Enginerd81

    Should I relocate this O2 bung on a downpipe I bought?

    From what I understand, you don't want water to collect in it. If the bung is on the bottom, closest point to the ground, then water can condense and pool in it. The orientation of the picture makes it looks like it more front than bottom. I would not relocate unless positioning doesn't work with your set up. Bryan
  24. Hi there - Mostly a lurker and searcher - but thought I'd post the car now that I've got it back from paint. I bought it in 2013 from a friend: http://www.zcar.com/forum/15-cars-sale-1970-83-240z-260z-280z-280zx/311359-76-280z-2-2-turbo-3950-obo-michigan.html Tinkered with it a bit, moved for work, had no time and decided to let a body shop fix the rust and paint it. I've got the wiring harness and sensors laid out for a MS2 install. In runs and drives well other than the rear end clunk and and some rattles that a 40 year old car has; which pains my OCD self to no end. I really love the color, it's a Chrysler color - Copperhead Orange. Just wish I could find a lip spoiler or similar for the back end to clean it up. Enjoy! Bryan
  25. Enginerd81

    Fresh Paint Job 280z 2+2

    Yea those were quick to go - All of the datsun emblems are off so now I get everybody asking what kind of car it is. Thinking about some vinyl on the bottom like this