inline6

N42 intake and one thermostat housing have been sold. Other stuff is available.

I have someone that wants the manifold already. Residential delivery - regular Fed Ex is $12.14. Call it $12 - so total would be $32. Ok?

Brand new Schneider camshaft with mods. This one has been nitrided and has been drilled, tapped and an hed head type npt plug installed in the back. Current price is $275 at Schneider (no nitride and press fit plug in back): http://schneidercams.com/290F_L6.aspx $300 plus regular Fed Ex shipping to your destination. Sorry this picture is blurry - but the top has "290F": Stock, OEM datsun "A" cam for use with a spray bar (not internally drilled). Can be used after cleaning off the cosmoline (it has been coated) and polishing the journals, or this is a good cam core for a regrind. $50 plus reg Fed Ex shipping to your destination:

I have a few 240z "rear" items for sale. Add regular Fed Ex shipping to all prices: Drum brakes which are in good condition. OEM aluminum brake drums with shoes which have the Porterfield R4 compound - quite suitable for track use. Near full amount of material is on the shoes. Drums do not need machining to run - not hot spots and liner surfaces not out of round. Shoes are labeled and kept associated with the drums they ran in - bedded and ready to install and go racing. $150 plus shipping. Rear anti-sway bar - believed to be an aftermarket Mulholland bar. Welded eyelet ends. $20 plus shipping. I may have some of the mounting hardware. I will edit this if I find it. Mustache bar for R180 differential. In good condition - $40 plus shipping.

For sale are some original 240Z emissions parts which are, of course, discontinued and NLA from Nissan. I'll probably have more luck at classiczcars with these, however, maybe someone here is doing a restoration of one of their Z's. All of these were taken from a 72 240z around 1997 and has been sitting in a box in my garage. All prices - add for regular Fed - Ex for shipping. Original air pump with mounting bracket (and mount bolts). Spins freely by hand with no noticeable noise. No noticeable play in the shaft. $80 AB-Valve - or Anti-Backfire valve according to the factory service manual. T fitting and some OE hose clamps also - you get what is in the pictures. $20 Altitude compensation control: $20

Received and replied.

Maybe you are reconsidering your cheap/cracked/noisy header. If you want to go back to an exhaust manifold, they can sometimes be hard to find because everyone throws them away. This is a very nice condition exhaust manifold for normally aspirated cars (not a turbo manifold). 3 studs for the down pipe are in good condition. I notice it has an internal divider separating the front 3 and back three cylinders (as cast from the factory) - I don't know if they are all that way. Effectively makes it a 3 - 2 setup. This came off a 75 or 76 Z. This part is for sale until I say it has sold, so if you are reading this a year from post date - it is still for sale. $30 plus regular Fed Ex shipping.

For Sale: N42 non-EGR intake manifold - comes with injectors, injector mounting hardware, some sensors, etc. (look at pics) - no throttle body. Don't know if injectors or sensors are good - this came off a salvage engine. $140 plus regular FedEX shipping. Stock throttle body in fair condition. Looks like it will clean up nicely. Throttle position sensor looks to be in good condition. Will ship with mounting bolts. $25 plus reg Fed Ex shipping. Two thermostat housings come with sensors - $20 each plus reg Fed Ex shipping - they are slightly different, so let me know which you want. Fuel rail $15 plus regular Fed Ex Shipping:

I bought a couple of N42 engines out of a salvage yard a while back and today, while I was getting ready to sell some parts, I found this thing rattling around inside the N42 intake manifold. Anyone know what it is and its purpose? It appears that it was inside the manifold and somehow attached originally to the aluminum bosses that correspond to these three bolts on the outside. Garrett

I just heard back from Sandy Armstrong at ARE. "Garrett, Well, you have pointed out an error both in our catalog as well as on the internet....We have changed our 1120 pan to not have the full trough but to have rack clearance. So the way we manufacturer those now is like the one on the engine that you sent. Thanks for pointing that out I will get a new picture uploaded on the web site." So, the "new" ARE pan has more clearance at the rack. I'll buy one and figure out how much lower the engine can go.

Been a while, but I was revisiting this topic and came across this picture on the Datsun Spirit site. This ARE sump pan appears to be a different design than the one shown on the ARE website. Can anyone confirm that the ARE pan has been redesigned so the "trough" (low part of the casting) is no longer running the full length of the pan? This design pictured would allow the engine to be dropped without interfering with the steering rack. I'll ask ARE and report back.

How is this possible? This car on eBay, was made in 1/71 according to the door tag, but has VIN HLS30-14751. My car's tag has 12/70 and the VIN is HLS30-16511. Here is my VIN plate (unfortunately partially sandblasted by a prior owner): Can someone explain? Did this car on eBay get held up in production - set aside for a bit? Anyone else ever hear or confirm this occurred at all with this period of Datsun's? Also, the Zhome registry has lots of VINs that are close to mine more or less with regard to production date. And here are two VINs from the Zhome registry which sandwich the VIN of the car on eBay - both show 11/70 production dates: Garrett

I have a New Old Stock (NOS) P90A head. I bought it for an engine project and ended up changing directions. No cam, valves springs or retainers - just guides and cam towers. If interested, I'll look around a bit and come up with a price.

Good to hear. I'm glad we were able to help. No ATF, use motor oil instead, pistons have to move/float freely through their entire movement range, needles and nozzles need to be in good shape (not interfering with each other at all) and installed correctly, fuel levels need to be set right. From there, setting nozzle heights and syncing the two carbs with each other properly is about all that is left for good carb operation. Extend the exhaust past the rear apron, a touch past the bumper is even better. A lot of the exhaust fumes come in around the tail light gaskets. They do not seal the tail lights to the tail light panel 100% even when new, and if they are dry rotted, then even less so. Pull your tail lights and have a look. The hatch seal (main one) doesn't seal 100% either. The curvature of the hatch panel doesn't contact the hatch seal firmly across it's entire surface (on my car at least). You can check by getting in the hatch area and fitting a shim/piece of thick paper all the way around the opening - checking for places where you can slip it between the hatch and the seal. Replace that seal if it is not in good shape. Also, a lot of people cause the car to run rich by installing the needles to far into the piston. You have to set the needles using the method I described.

Honestly, I think that guy has carb tops from different years or something. The vents tubes, comparing between the two tops, are completely different. My 4 screw SU's had float chamber tops that were the same. 5 Star Rising - ditch the ATF. See post 13 here.