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Ironfoot

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About Ironfoot

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  • Birthday 05/10/1984

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    Male
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    Pittsburgh, PA
  1. Ironfoot

    Wako 75S cam

    So that's what a steep ramp looks like! Haha
  2. Ironfoot

    Wako 75S cam

    I think I saw the same site. From what I can tell the lift for this Cam is .575", but they're kinda voodoo about the overlap/duration. I'm sure it's pretty extreme. I saw a previous post that said even the odd stateside distributors won't talk about it and the only videos I've seen of it running doesn't show it idling. I'm sure with modern stand alone efi you could make it reasonably drivable, but it's definitely a hot Cam. Good luck. If you get one let us know how it works out.
  3. Ironfoot

    Honda V6 Swap

    Is this thread still open. I have a j32a1 in an Acura tl. Also they made Acura j-series 6 speed in the type-s models, fwd of course but easy flywheel source. Haha come to think of it I have a 5 speed h series accord around here too. I agree these motors are bulletproof. Without noticing I once put a hole in the oil pan of my accord sliding into a ditch. After a walk, a pull, red lining it reverse, driving 3 miles home, and leaving it idle in my driveway for 10 minutes while I changed; I noticed the dummy light on and killed the ignition. There was not a single drop of oil in the pan or even on my driveway and I had bounced that thing off the Rev limiter (7,200 rpm) for at least 10 sec getting unstuck. The next day I threw some jb weld on it and filled it up with fresh oil and to my knowledge it's still running fine. Honestly I credit Lucas oil stabilizer and that H on the bumper for that So glad to see a novel idea and these engines getting some credit. They can't be that bad if they put them in the supercar that changed supercars, the NSX.
  4. Ironfoot

    My not so Fairlady Z...VH Swap

    Hey, love the 45, and your choice of color and bolt kit makes that thing look like it was pulled out of a jdm race bike or something. Spot on. I had a question about your brake setup, are those srt8 rear calipers? I ask because I broke a bleeder on my brother-in-laws srt8 jeep and couldn't believe how cheap you can get refurbished brembo 4-pots for and thought they would be a great size to up the s30's front braking power.
  5. I lucked out that mine came with a manual choke 390 however the cable wasn't hooked up. I suspect it's going to work well. I cleaned and rebuilt it but unfortunately the kit was for higher cfm 4160's, so I had to clean up and reuse the power valve and some other stuff. I also bought a stage 2 clutch with a 50% higher clamping force. When I bought the car it was seized so I changed the master and slave cylinders with no result. So I decided to give Plan B. a try and had my brother push me off the jack stands after I started it in gear. It was pretty exciting launching in the gravel and even more exciting was the throttle sticking wide open as I slide onto the tarmac. Mind you this is with no clutch and brakes that haven't made a revolution since 1982! Haha somehow I missed the bank and managed to kill the ignition before the needle on the tachometer snapped off. A testament to the mighty l-gata. Anyhow, do you guys think it's worth it to shave a little weight off the flywheel while it's out, or should I leave well enough alone?
  6. Ironfoot

    The Truth on Frankenmotors?

    Thanks guys I have a lot to think about. The sharp (thin) edges getting hot makes a lot of sense. I haven't decided where to go with the motor right now. I'd like to not destroy the factory engine so eventually I'll be purchasing a 28, but I figured if a head swap was worthwhile then no harm done. I guess we'll see how she runs after a good tune and go from there.
  7. Ironfoot

    The Truth on Frankenmotors?

    So with the right head and headgasket I can get over 10:1 with my l24? What is the main reason for detonation in the l-gata, and what internally can be done to reduce it, and how do sharp edges come into play? I would suspect the head design (non-crossflow), plays a part but let me know. I am aware that it is a problem with these engines and have been considering converting to E85 to overcome it if I go all out in the future. Even so I would like to get the compression as high as possible with pump gas. A more aggressive cam would help offset it as well, but what little things like grinding the plugs as mentioned above, can I do to alleviate this tendency?
  8. Good call, thanks for the input. Since I bought the car with this setup and my funds are limited it will be what I,ll be running, at least for the time being. I haven't driven one with SU's but the holley seems pretty good setup, and knowing that the '73 flat tops were not so good I'm glad it came that way. The only reason I would have changed it already was if I thought I was running lean at the ends but the cartech setup, though not the prettiest, pretty much eliminates this. I also read a forum in which a kid who daily drives an L28 4bbl tried pretty much every manifold and this setup was one of the best all the way around, beat only maginally by the AZC setup which I must admit is quite good looking. What I would like to know is the performance difference between the 4150 and 4160 holly 390cfm 4 barrels. The 4160 is what I am running now which has vacuum secondaries and a choke. The 4150 is a race only version double pumper (dual stage accelerator pumps), with manual secondaries and no choke plate. This is also known as the NASCAR carb since it was used to limit the cfm on v8 racing engines throughout the US in many applications. Because of this there is a plethora of companies selling high performance versions of this carb. I have read reports on other engines that there is a drastic difference in performance between the 4150 and 4160, so I would think it would be the same for the l-gata. If anybody has info let me know. It will be a while before I can dump a G into fuel delivery so no rush
  9. Ironfoot

    The Truth on Frankenmotors?

    Thanks guys, that would be great if I could pull those numbers. And yes I agree that the stroke of the L28 should in no way be the limiting factor of the engine as far a high red line is concerned or more importantly usable power at revs. Even the LD cranked strokers are still oversquare by definition. The main goal of my inquiry was to see if it was possible to get a nice compression ratio for little money by swapping some junkyard parts, and it seems very feasible.
  10. Ironfoot

    The Truth on Frankenmotors?

    Cool, ya what a great tool that is. To get the real nice numbers I put in +1mm L28 flat tops, peanut head (E31), and NISMO .6mm headgasket, producing a 2.63 liter with 10.6 to one. Ya realistically a back yard crank/rod swap would be right where you quoted. Still a nice options for the money, thanks for the reassurance and help on the figures. If anybody has done this please chime in.
  11. Ironfoot

    The Truth on Frankenmotors?

    It's awesome to see the love and respect that Datsun has enjoyed since its very early years. Of course racing success and style go along way in the minds of motor mad, and Datsun has always had a lot of both. Still it's nice to flip through coverage of this year's SEMA show and see countless iterations of Datsun bliss, including this very interesting OS Giken build of a LD28 block with a version of their tc24 head done by Z Car Garage. This NA setup is purportedly making over 400hp and begs the question are all the blocks we've been ripping cranks out of for years going to be the next hot ticket. Probably not for the average Joe but it seems that with the taller block you could run an even longer stroke forged crank than you could otherwise. Of course it would require some ingenuity in the head department as well. This brings me to a question that has been rolling around in my head for a while, and I think it's been done, but I'm having trouble tracking down any real world info. I'll preface, this is a budget build question. OK, so here it is: If I grab a late flat top L28e from the junkyard and stick the crank and rods out of my L24 in it will it work? I would have figured this would have been one of the most common back yard builds since you end up with a motor that has only slightly less displacement that the L28, but a compression ratio of between 10:1 and 11:1 depending on head and gasket, along with the more favorable B/S and R/S ratios people are so keen to focus on. Any input or real world experience would be appreciated. I just love the idea of an all Nissan build that can be done with junk yard parts and result in this kind of compression. Any thoughts, or am I totally out in left field on this one?
  12. Thanks I appreciate that, and honestly the only reason I brought it up is because I didn't want the thread to regress into the SU vs. 4BBL debate that is common on the web, and I apologize if I was off putting. In any case my main reason for the inquiry is purely aesthetic; I don't like the look of the stock balance tube in its current state. Most of the holes have plugs in them and the PVC valve is attached but not hooked up. I suppose I could remove it with a block off plate and clean up the balance tube with a grinder. And yes it's basically a 6-2-1 manifold which is the same as my header system. I might try to remove it simply because I think it will look better, then if it doesn't work I'll just clean it up and stick it back on. Thanks for the insight, I'll post some pics when I get it done.
  13. That's what I was thinking too but the more I started to look at it the adapter that I'm running is basically a single plane manifold in that a single four barrel dumps into an open box that Y's into the stock SU manifold. I have heard of people splitting the box to make it a dual plane, and one of the direct 4bbl manifolds, maybe AZC'S, is like this, but as of right now mines open. I can still see how balancing the manifolds before they join at the carb could be beneficial though. Ok aside from possible balancing issues are there any other problems such as vacuum lines that will give me problems. I bought this car running but I'm pretty sure when they added the 4 barrel and headers in the late 70's they left a lot of the emissions junk on the balance tube to try to get it through emissions. Right now the egr outlet on the headers is plugged, but the valve is still on the balance tube. I'll post pics of what I'm actually working later, but any input is greatly appreciated.
  14. Ok, first I would like to thank everybody who has made this site possible, and the community of enthusiasts who support it. I am a veteran motorhead, and the happy new owner of a '73 240z. I bought this car as a barn find recently, and have little info on the car other than it has low mileage and was the personal car of a racing family here in Pittsburgh, PA. It was never officially raced, besides some autocross events, however it was given a proper tune as a spirited daily driver by their mechanic who I'm told still works for Porsche racing in America. The modifications that I'm aware of are typical and include a mild cam, headers, twice pipes, and some slick vintage 7" Grace turbovec alloys. Since it is a '73 the smog carbs were also replaced with a cartech 4 barrel adapter and a holly 4160. Now I am fully aware of the debate regarding l-gata carburetion and have no interest in discussing the merits of one or the other at this time, and since this is a budget build I will be using this setup good or bad, with the only possible change being the use of a competition 390cfm double pumper for track days instead of the current carb with its vacuum secondaries and choke plate. OK, so my question is: Since my 4 barrel adapter simply bolts to the original SU intake manifold, all emission and egr systems have been eliminated, and the adapter is a simple single plane setup; CAN I ELIMINATE THE STOCK BALANCE TUBE COMPLETELY? I would of course have to fab some block of plates and reroute some coolant lines, but other than that it should be a straight forward project. If anybody has done this before or has any info let me know. Attached is a photo of the manifold style I'm referring to.
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