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Found 6 results

  1. L28ET Out / L24 In

    I am swapping out my L28et for a rebuilt L24 w/ triple webers. A head-scratcher for most but, nonetheless, the direction I want to go with the car. Looking for any prior experience/guidance on making the swap back to NA. I did some searching but no luck. The turbo set up is out of an 83 ZXT. Swap was done in the early 2000s by a shop in Illinois. Not particularly comfortable with electrics so, the wiring harness is of particular concern.
  2. Building an L28 (NA)

    UPDATE: 2/14/15 After a rather long hiatus, the build returns with updates! As some of you may know, I decided to go with the professionals with this build. Looking at some local shops around my area, most notably Rebello Racing, and also some other shops across the country, I've decided to send my dear L28 out to Eiji Hosomi at Datsun Spirit Inc. (https://datsunspirit.com/) There are three main goals that I wanted my motor to achieve. 1. Speed > Power. I want my motor to run like a hot knife through butter. It needs to be quick and very responsive. Power is nice, but a quick revving motor is what I seek. 2. Character. My beloved Z will eventually be my weekend car. I don't want the motor inside of it to just be a fast engine. It needs personality and character. Something that sets it apart from, let's say, a Honda Civic. This is why I went for triple Weber 45's, a flywheel that weights less than 10lbs, and my desired cam (more info on those later.) There's a certain character I want this motor to display, and I believe this build fits the bill just right. 3. Reliability. It might seem like an oxymoron, having a fast and reliable sports car motor, but I've seen time and time again how these motors, when built by true artists of their trade, can withstand almost anything you throw at them. My new motor will be running on pump gas, will idle smoothly and will barely break a sweat with the granny-like driving I put my Z through. Engine Specs: Bore/Stroke: 89mm/79mm Pistons: 29mm Kameari (280g) Rods: 139.5mm Kameari (~575g) Crankshaft: Polished, Stock L28 Camshaft: .290 Duration / .490 Lift Valves: New valves (stock size) Upgraded springs and retainers CR: ~10.5 to 11:1 Now, time for some photographs! Here's an album with all the photos I've gotten from Eiji thus far. I'll update it as the build continues: http://imgur.com/a/Fyqtv ORIGINAL POST: Dear Forums, I've been a long time lurker of these forums (along with Classic Z Cars) and of the community, but just recently, I've decided it was time I popped my Z cherry and got involved. I own a '77 280z (Motor has EFI; Transmission has 4 Gears) I'm currently working on another L28 that I picked up (Carbed, N42 Head)) along with a 5-Speed, but due to my lack of knowledge regarding these motors (We are a family of Ford Mustang owners) I seek your help in order to make sure this build isn't a total disaster. To start off, hello; My name is Mike I am 20 years old and I'm a computer tech. This is my first engine rebuild, so experience is not really something I have in my corner. Luckily, my brother and my dad are both mechanics, but they decided to pretty much leave me to learn how to swim in the ocean with this build. My goals for this motor are pretty simple and straight forward, but I would still love to get some help from some of you more knowledgeable L-Series petrol heads. Let me start by saying that I am not power hungry. We have the pony cars for that. What I want is a responsive motor, not a powerful one. Engine Goals (Might get redefined as I learn more about these L-series motors) 1. I would like to hit 200HP at the crank (Although not necessary) 2. I want the motor to be naturally aspirated. 3. I love the look and sound of triple Weber carbs. 4. I don't think I need a stroker motor to produce a descent amount of power, so unless it's necessary, I'd rather not go there. Things that I am considering (Please correct me if I'm wrong!) 1. Balancing the Crank 2. Lighter, flat-top pistons (I would like to keep the stock 86mm size) 3. Stock valves look good enough! Probably just stay with those. 4. I've read a few posts where people mentioned using L24 rods. Why is that? Weight? 5. A Mild performance Cam with upgraded springs. As I mentioned above, I'm just learning about these motors, so your help is very much appreciated. I'm gonna need all the knowledge I can get. This is the motor: So it started with this Time to clean! So that's pretty much it so far. Cheers guys, and thanks a lot for the help! Not that it matters much, but here is the car:
  3. resto-mod 240z best swap

    I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,
  4. WTT: N42 for P90

    Looking to trade an N42 cylinder head for a P90 cylinder. N42 came off car that ran before it went into storage 15+ years ago. I really just need the head and the cam mounts, possibly rockers if they are in good shape as I be will getting a new cam, springs and valves anyway.
  5. N42 Chamber Welding

    I am currently building my motor on my 280z, and I was looking at having the head chambers welded up. The issue I have ran into is everyone wants big money to perform this service. I was was wondering what everyone's opinion was on if should even weld the chambers, or if someone has a reasonable source to have this service done. My current build list is as follows: N42 Block N42 Head / Ported & Unshrouded .030" over ITM Flat-top pistons 280z rods w/ ARP rod bolts ARP main studs ARP head studs Triple Weber 45 DCOEs with Cannon intake Advance Distributors re-curved 280zx distributor w/ E12-80 ignition module Schneider factory cam regrind 284-92F grind Intake Duration (gross): 284 Exhaust Duration (gross): 292 Intake Duration (.050”): 236 Exhaust Duration (.050”): 244 Intake Valve Lift*: .488" Exhaust Valve Lift*: .504" Lobe Separation: 107 Intake Valve Lash: .010" Exhaust Valve Lash: .012" RPM Range: 3250-7250
  6. My TPS was somehow destroyed, and I'm looking to pick up one used. Not too concerned about the condition, as long as it works. I'm offering around $30 (It's three prongs and wires with a cam, I don't know why the parts stores want $70 for one.) I live in an isolated area in northern Arkansas, so I'll have to ship it. I drive a 1978 280z, 2+2 version. Naturally aspirated, IIRC turbo versions have a different TPS setting. I would be paying through PayPal.
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