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A One Inch Diameter Brake Master Cylinder for the S30 Z Cars

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I don't know how efficient it would be, but I had a thought for lines from the new master adapting to the rest of the system. I was thinking you could simply buy say the 14" long Stainless Braided lines that have two -3AN Female fittings and then just use a -3AN male to 10mm male on one end and a -3AN male to a 3/8x24 male on the other. This way you wouldn't have to deal with bending or flaring lines and you'd have flexible lines that easily allow you to move the master cylinder around for adjustment or having to pull the booster.

 

Alright I was searching Ebay and it turns out I just wasn't hitting the right keys, but I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-3-8-x-24NF-Female-M10-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffcb80

 

So maybe we finally have an option for making the Wilwood swap even easier.

Edited by DuoWing

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I got the Wilwood master and a new booster.  However, the pushrod is too long and I can't adjust it.  I have read that you can use shims to fix it, but it is right at 4mm too long and I don't think I want to shim it that much.  Before I go hacking at my new booster to shorten the pushrod, anyone have any recommendations?  Oh and here is a picture in case I am being stupid and it is adjustable but I just fail to see how.   

 

boosterpushrod

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Um since i don't have a booster anymore not sure how helpful i can be. But would shortening the shaft that gose's to your pedal possibly pull your push rod back in? Also realy if its only a 4 mm spacer in inch its around 5/32 thick. So if you would take a nice piece of aluminium and shine it up it could look of, id say better then going and hacking up the rod 

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  1. Do you have the spacer block in place between the booster and MC? If not the push rod will be too long.

Under the dash verify that the adjustment between the booster and the pedal arm is not adjusted such that it is pushing the MC  push rod forward. You need some free play in the brake pedal per the FSM etc.

Assuming that you have a 240Z or 280Z booster, the push rod should be close to 14mm to 15mm +/- a few mm (as measured from the spacer block) for the Wilwood 1 inch MC.

Test fit the MC while adjusting the push rod.  If the MC pushes back when sliding it home on the booster it is too long. If it is too long the brakes will lock up after 2 or 3 stops. When you test drive the car take a wrench with you to release pressure in the MC by opening the MC bleed screws. Note that the push rod can be adjusted with the hard lines to the MC connected.

Do not drop the reaction disk inside the booster. Suggest that you set the booster in a vise so the push rod is pointing up, pull the push rod out, take out the reaction disk (rubber puck) and glue it to the base of the push rod with JB weld. Otherwise there is a good chance that you will loose the reaction disk while fooling around with the push rod adjustment. Search on reaction disk for more info.

Edited by Miles

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I found similar adapters from Brakequip.  BQ50 were what I got.  They have a lot of other adapters as well too.

 

I don't know how efficient it would be, but I had a thought for lines from the new master adapting to the rest of the system. I was thinking you could simply buy say the 14" long Stainless Braided lines that have two -3AN Female fittings and then just use a -3AN male to 10mm male on one end and a -3AN male to a 3/8x24 male on the other. This way you wouldn't have to deal with bending or flaring lines and you'd have flexible lines that easily allow you to move the master cylinder around for adjustment or having to pull the booster.

 

Alright I was searching Ebay and it turns out I just wasn't hitting the right keys, but I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-3-8-x-24NF-Female-M10-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffcb80

 

So maybe we finally have an option for making the Wilwood swap even easier.

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Well at least a couple of adapters have emerged. This should help people especially if you've never made brake lines before. Also another thought I had is that since 3/8-24 is smaller than 10x1 you may even be able to remove the aluminum line adapters from the MC and actually just tap them out to 10x1. Then everything should fit nearly perfect.

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OK - so got mine going. Very wierd - pedal is extremely touchy. Brakes grab at the right spot in the pedal travel, and it stops on a dime, but you barely have to push the pedal pressure-wise. Pedal is very sensitive - and when I mash on it (maish if you're from the South) I can't lock them up. Did I accidentally drop the reaction disk in the booster? 78 280 - Toyota vented front/240SX rears. I 'believe' I left the valves in place - but it's been well over a year since I installed this.

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As I'm doing this upgrade to accomodate my S12W Front / 200SX rear (disc) setup, I've hit a snag/question.

I'm to the point of swapping the the cylinder plugs that the brake lines attach to.  I pulled the plugs out of the old MC, but when i went to swap them into the new MC, I see the new one already has the cones.  On the old one they appear to be built-in....or stuck together.

So:  Part 46038-B5012 referenced earlier

Do I have one piece here, or two pieces (a plug and a cone) that are stuck together.  

IMG_20131215_190601_208_zpsd1a585af.jpg

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Ok well i think the front page of this thread should be updated as it is now too late for me since i already ordered my wilwood master cylinder....but the parts you need to make this work is nissan  part # 46038-B5012.....which is no longer availible!.....if anybody knows where there might be NOS of this please let me know.....or any alternatives rather then the ones mentioned on the front page.

Edited by theatriks

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" Ok well i think the front page of this thread should be updated as it is now too late for me since i already ordered my wilwood master cylinder....but the parts you need to make this work is nissan part # 46038-B5012.....which is no longer availible!.....if anybody knows where there might be NOS of this please let me know.....or any alternatives rather then the ones mentioned on the front page. "

 

The answers are in this very well written thread.

 

Note from this thread that the bottom hard line fittings from 72 240Z and 79 280ZX MCs will work.

 

Go to pick and pull and buy a MC for $10.00.

  • Remove bottom port fittings.
  • Install fittings in the wilwood MC.

 

Also try:  http://s-s.www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

Edited by Miles

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" Ok well i think the front page of this thread should be updated as it is now too late for me since i already ordered my wilwood master cylinder....but the parts you need to make this work is nissan part # 46038-B5012.....which is no longer availible!.....if anybody knows where there might be NOS of this please let me know.....or any alternatives rather then the ones mentioned on the front page. "

 

The answers are in this very well written thread.

 

Note from this thread that the bottom hard line fittings from 72 240Z and 79 280ZX MCs will work.

 

Go to pick and pull and buy a MC for $10.00.

 

Also try:  http://s-s.www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxEODjxaIfM

 

 

 

Thanks for the humour but even you are mentioning parts that just arent availible anymore at least from the websites and dealers ive been calling....the bottom hard line fittings or outlet fittings from a a 72 240z or 79 280zx are no longer availible ...maybe theres old new stock out there........i was mentioning to change this in the first post .....the first post is very well written and very long and informative .....but some info in there is incorrect now and should be updated thats all im saying.

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Source for MC bottom port fittings:

 

For the benefit of others, and as stated elsewhere above, go to a reycling yard such as Pick and Pull and buy a used MC and remove the required fittings for your Wilwood 1 inch MC swap. Cost me $10.00.

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lol you guys down in the states must have a plethora of datsun and datsun parts in wrecking yards lol where I'm from 3 wrecking yards in the city and zero datsuns or datsun parts .

But if you know of any scrap yards that will ship a 10 MC up to Canada please let me know .

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Ok well i think the front page of this thread should be updated as it is now too late for me since i already ordered my wilwood master cylinder....but the parts you need to make this work is nissan  part # 46038-B5012.....which is no longer availible!.....if anybody knows where there might be NOS of this please let me know.....or any alternatives rather then the ones mentioned on the front page.

If you read my post on the second page of this thread I pointed out a very simple, cheap and effective solution to the 3/8" port fittings the Wilwood MC comes with.  You cut that end off the hard lines that connect the MC to the distribution block, install 3/8" flare fittings on the correct end and install the modified lines.  It sounds like Wheelman13 already did this and it cost him 99 cents.  I did this with mine ~4 years ago and have had absolutely no trouble with it since.  In my case I fabbed completely new lines with a 3/8" on one end and a 10mm on the other, bought all the supplies from a local NAPA store at the time for less than $10.00 USD.

 

BTW: I tried using the port fittings from an after market 7/8" MC I'd installed in my Z before the 1" Wilwood and they didn't work.  I don't remember why now as that was 4 years ago.

 

Updating the title of this thread isn't necessary, if you read the whole thing several solutions are provided.

Edited by wheelman

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Source for MC bottom port fittings:

 

For the benefit of others, and as stated elsewhere above, go to a reycling yard such as Pick and Pull and buy a used MC and remove the required fittings for your Wilwood 1 inch MC swap. Cost me $10.00.

 

See next quote:

 

lol you guys down in the states must have a plethora of datsun and datsun parts in wrecking yards lol where I'm from 3 wrecking yards in the city and zero datsuns or datsun parts .

But if you know of any scrap yards that will ship a 10 MC up to Canada please let me know .

 

For as long as I can remember going to the local wrecking yards (a few decades now), there has not been any Datsuns in these yards. There may have been some maybe when I first started going, but didn't own a Datsun at the time. There just are not that many Datsuns around here, and the cars usually don't sit for long before they get crushed.

 

So to repeatedly say "Just go to the local pick n pull" does not apply to some of us.

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It's mentioned just a page back, but there are 3/8x24 male to 10mm female adapters available. http://www.brakequip.com/products/automotive-fittings/male-to-female-thread-adapters or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-3-8-x-24NF-Female-M10-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffcb80 these would be the only things I'd add to the first post. Just so people know. Otherwise I didn't know about these and just made new lines with a 3/8x24 fitting on one end and a 10mmx1.0 fitting on the other end.

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