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tamo3

10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

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Interesting, looks like what you have there is a FS5W71B from either an '84 200SX or an '80-'86 720 Truck. I found this site extremely useful when doing Datsun transmission research: http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/gearing2.html

 

Thanks Leon for this site.

That's really useful information! I didn't know FS5W71B has so many variety of gear ratios.

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- Remove exhaust

- Remove anti-sway bar

- Remove front of diff mount

- Unbolt propeller shaft bolts

 

- Remove radiator fan

- Remove slottle linkage

- Drain transmission oil

- Remove starter

- Unbolt Transmission - Engine bolts

 

Finally, 4 speed transmission dropped last night. I spend too much time not to brake other staff.

post-25175-0-00275400-1370620872_thumb.jpg

 

 

The problem was clutch withdraw lever spring was bent. That's why I did not get traction.

 

Next steps:

- Remove Clutch

- Remove flywheel

- Replace clankshaft rear seal

- Investigate '77 FS5W71B transmission

- Install tranny

 

 

Edited by tamo3

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Order some parts from Nissan Parts Zone. This distributor has good web site online chat with tech support and cheaper shipping cost.

 

Item                    Description                    Unit    Price     total
12279-R4601    CRANKSHAFT SEAL     1         27.56    27.56
    Replaced by: 12279-2B500            
30542-E9000    COVER-DUST                1        4.88      4.88
01223-00041    NUT                                4        1.46      5.84
38320-N3111    GASKET-COVER            1        3.99      3.99
C8189-N3100    SEAL-OIL                       1        6.33      6.33
38342-N3100    SEAL-OIL                        2      10.25      20.5
39627-E4100    NUT                                 8       0.86       6.88
    Replaced by: 39627-N3000            
32103-U8400    PLUG-DRAIN                   1       7.59       7.59
    Replaced by: 32103-U840B            
38352-78600    BREATHER-COVER         1       1.34      1.34

 

 

Order some diff parts for rebuild and propeller shaft nuts, half drive shaft nuts too.

Edited by tamo3

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Progress update.

 

I can't find my pipe wrench in my garage, so I bought new one from HFT.

24inch wrench for $12, I feels good deal with heavy metal item!

post-25175-0-21484900-1370887404_thumb.jpg

 

Remove all shocks.

post-25175-0-58636400-1370887431_thumb.jpg

 

I compare the shocks I have.

Bilstein F4-P30-0032-MO in Yellow

Tokico Blue

and original KYB gas shocks front is short and rear is longer.

post-25175-0-43644600-1370887608_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-29343400-1370887616_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-62390900-1370887626_thumb.jpg

 

Bilstein F4-P30-0032-MO is shortest.  TOKICO TOHZ3016 is almost same length with KYB 361002 without spacer.

 

 

Bilstein diameter is about 33mm.

post-25175-0-20076600-1370887656_thumb.jpg

 

Tokico Blue and KYB is almost same size 21.28mm.

post-25175-0-88273900-1370887702_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-25166800-1370887714_thumb.jpg

 

I notice Bilstein Shock has small hole at the bottom of the shock where thehelix112 inserted bar on his Step by Step Coilover conversion thread.

post-25175-0-66507000-1370887805_thumb.jpg

Edited by tamo3

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'77 280z FS5W71B Transmission tear down.

post-25175-0-68384900-1370888051_thumb.jpg

 

Compare clutch folk levers and collers between 4 speed and 5 speed.

post-25175-0-18800200-1370888087_thumb.jpg

 

5 speed is about 37.51mm

4 speed is about 33.28mm

post-25175-0-41001400-1370888125_thumb.jpg

 

5 speed is about 27.85mm

4 speed is about 24.66mm

post-25175-0-55911000-1370888131_thumb.jpg

 

Gears are really great condition.

post-25175-0-96513000-1370888230_thumb.jpg

post-25175-0-61571900-1370888305_thumb.jpg

 

Need to check Syncro rings wear out size.

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Use special tool to remove flywheel :-)

post-25175-0-22399500-1370888463_thumb.jpg

 

As spitz17 recommended, I need to replace crank rear end seal. There is oil leaking.

post-25175-0-39365200-1370888620_thumb.jpg

 

After dropped transmission, I put 2x4 wood to prevent engine tilt.

post-25175-0-63142200-1370888493_thumb.jpg

 

Luckily clutch is same size of the new one that I bought for my previous 240z.

post-25175-0-80255500-1370888709_thumb.jpg

 

Flywheel has some surface rust, I gust I can just scribble off.

post-25175-0-21142500-1370888751_thumb.jpg

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Looks like you're deep in to things.  I noticed your measurements on the throwout collars and you might be measuring to the wrong spots.  The critical dimension is from where the clutch fork contacts the collar to to where the bearing contacts the pressure plate levers.  I modified one of your pictures to show it.

 

 

post-8864-0-44798900-1370889373_thumb.jpg

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Thanks NewZed for your comment.

I was afraid of my collar was broken. And if this happens, I'm afraid of to find right part.

 

Also, I want to keep track information where this site mentioned their measurement is wrong.

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

Also I noticed the bearing for 4 speed and 5 speed is different.

 

I will measure the size again.

 

Thanks!

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Power wash bell house and rear end housing of transmission.

I try to remove rear end seal for replace to new one, it's hard to get rid of. Using heat gun to heated up, still no luck. It looks like the rubber stick to the metal.

 

post-25175-0-75469100-1371150394_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-19739600-1371150400_thumb.jpg

Edited by tamo3

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There are a lot of try and error to find right solution. It's frustrating, but also the feeling of archiving goal is priceless.

I almost finish rebuilding transmission gear and here is my story of rebuilding tranny.

 

1st try and error

Don't put the idler shaft onto the plate before finishing push in mainshaft and counter shaft.

You cannot put counter shaft into center position of the shop press to push in.

post-25175-0-73024900-1372352617_thumb.jpg

 

2nd try and error

You cannot put the snap ring if the direction of syncro for 3rd and 4th gear reverse. There is abig washer and no space to put snap ring if the direction of syncro is wrong.

post-25175-0-49256600-1372351883_thumb.jpg

 

3rd try and error

You need to put the short mainshaft of main drive before you push counter gear together onto the plate. You cannot put the short mainshaft later.

post-25175-0-88340700-1372352182_thumb.jpg

 

Tips:

It's easier to push in bearing onto the counter gear before push into the plate.

 

Tips:

Use grease to hold the small ball.

 

Tips:

It is easier to rebuild tranny using wire to tide up counter shaft and mainshaft before push in the plate.

 

4th try and error

Don't use gardening wire. It's not strong enough. That's for tomato, not for heavy metal. I end up go to HomeDepot to purchase 16g wire.

post-25175-0-24530700-1372352308_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-23955600-1372352320_thumb.jpg

 

Tips:

Use some bar to hold the washer when push in the mainsahft to the plate. This way, you can avoid dropping the small ball.

post-25175-0-83697500-1372352549_thumb.jpg

 

5th try and error

mainshaft nut for FS5W71B (wide ratio / from call 280z tranny) is 32354-E9802(or 32354-E9804) right hand thread.

mainshaft nut for FS5W71B (close ratio / from 280zx tranny) is 32354-E9803 left hand thread.

I have now 2 left hand thread mainshaft nuts now.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/48421-rebuild-kit-280zx-5-speed-recommendations.html#post434985

post-25175-0-66095200-1372350842_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Leon. You made great progress!

How's your prep for wedding goes beside engine build?

 

I started writing up what I have done during summer.

 

spitz17,

I watched youtube video so many times before hammering on actual body.

I was so scare before actually hitting body.

 

 

 

If you don't hitting too much with strength, the metal is not much stretched, I think.

Off course, I need to put a little bondo to final smoothing body.

 

I thought I have just 2 minor dents on my car.

post-25175-0-57056200-1377646905_thumb.jpg

I was planning to paint entire car, so, I started stripping paint with paint stripper...

This was just beginning of horror story...

 

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In order to prep paint, I decided to test mount Type1 fender from MSA.

 

post-25175-0-25153700-1377647157_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-02703800-1377647163_thumb.jpg

Oh, no, I'm surprise the poor quality of this fender.

Left and right side are not balanced especially signal mount area...

 

post-25175-0-26917100-1377647169_thumb.jpg

Almost straight mount with side line. In order to do so, I need drill hole onto headlight buckets.

 

post-25175-0-28877800-1377647175_thumb.jpg

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Working on body paint removal.

post-25175-0-21888700-1380944791_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-57587200-1380944811_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-61017700-1380944827_thumb.jpg

 

I use Aircraft paint remover that a lot of folks recommended.

Using blade to strip down paint. It was difficult to remove paint because the paint remover dry out so quick before the paint get soften, but when I put more paint remover, it get easier.

 

post-25175-0-64215200-1380945034_thumb.jpg

 

Found major cancer rust at rear window frame...

post-25175-0-05202100-1380945062_thumb.jpg

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Hi Perfect240z,

 

I use POR15 Metal clean to neutralize rust and primed canned spray for temporary purpose. I will spray Epoxy Primer later :-)

I decided to use Fiberglass Hood instead today.

I got this hood from Craigslist during Summer, but it has 2 rectangle holes.

 

post-25175-0-09239000-1381207069_thumb.jpg

 

I use fiberglass repair kit to fill the holes.

post-25175-0-10239800-1381207082_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-50762200-1381207102_thumb.jpgpost-25175-0-14509900-1381207112_thumb.jpg

 

Try to grind down extra fiberglass create air pollution in my garage!! What a mess!

I decided to continue work on the hood at backyard....

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