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TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z

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Well I had a fail with sump.... I should have cut it down before welding is on. It hangs way to low.... Not happy. Wish I would have gone the fuel cell route now, dang it! Lesson learned. If I can't fix my tank I'm going you bite the bullet an order a fuel cell....

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I have decided to run the oem ls1 camaro pump. Need to mod the top of the tank, but I think will be worth it in the end. No external regulator, has built in starvation solution and only requires one fuel line. a lot of the Nova and Chevelle guys use it on their non baffled tanks with no issues.

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motor mounts in, Clutch MC in with SAE nut welded to Z clutch fork, AND my sump fail!  with sump would have worked just fine if I would have measured twice and welded once....STUPID, and a waist of $70.  Time for a fuel cell instead...any cell size recommendations?

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For sizing and locating the cell: determine what else you need space for: fuel pump? Dual exhaust? Battery? Trailer hitch? Parachute? Future suspension mods? If I were doing a cell with the events I participate in, I would go small and deep to limit sloshing and I would weld a good solid perimeter frame abound the bottom of the floor on the underside. I would connect it the roll cage or something else good and solid so I could use it for all of the above. Try to think easy serviceability with quick disconnects and a cleanable screen-type filter to get all the welding flash etc out. My tank had been sand blasted and it took about 5 cleanings before my screen quit having sand in it, but the FPR has always been fine. Don't forget to put a small braided grounding strap from the tank to the chassis or some track inspector may send you home.

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Point of no return on the fuel cell.... spare tire well removed.   Mr. postman brought my LT headers... Look nice and no apparent gaps in the welds at collector end.  V bands are nice and came with gaskets to boot.  Cell should arrive soon so I can plan my attack on the install and associated future go fast goodies. 

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That's just mock-up, right? You're not really gonna use Lowe's perforated angle? I'd use a planning weight (a little safety factor) of about 100# for a fuel tank that size.

At 6.3 lbs/gallon the fuel in a 15 gallon tank would weigh 94.5 lbs and then you have the weight of the tank and anything else attached to the tank.  And then you have to add a safety factor to account for "G" forces when hitting bumps, etc. There will also be "leverage" factor based on the center of mass of the tank and the distance to the retaining bolts.  The more the merrier.  When I used to design structures and equipment the general philosophy was to "Kill flies with planets". :-)

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As RebekahsZ said, it's simple. There is an o-ring in place to keep fluid from leaking, but it's only locked in by a small pin. Knock that out and push your new fitting in, then reuse the pin to lock the new fitting in. Done! 

 

Might I suggest that while you are working on that part of the transmission.. if you haven't already.. purchase a remote bleed clutch kit for the t56.. While the bottom hole is the clutch line from the MC, the top line is where you fill it... and not sure if you noticed where that line exits at under the trans tunnel.. but lets just say it's a total bitch to get to if you try to flush the fluid for the clutch. I have my remote bleed run up next to my tilton mc, so it makes bleeding my clutch stupid easy. 

 

Oh and RebekahsZ.. I got lucky I guess... I only had to bleed my clutch once and it's perfect!

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