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#21 janaka

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 04:11 PM

Old post - I sent my Z to the alignment shop today to get it dialed in for street duty and used the above settings (225 wide tires) and my guy said his machine is in degree's so that was his comment. Otherwise he was happy to have something to go for other than stock. A thank you is in order, thank you.
I can't wait to get the car back. :)
'76 Datsun 280z
LS1/T56 swap
11.77@119.98
363hp/353tq

#22 JMortensen

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 04:34 PM

Most machines have a button to switch from degrees to inches. I worked with a Hunter machine for over a year before I hit it on accident...

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#23 janaka

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 05:17 PM

Most machines have a button to switch from degrees to inches. I worked with a Hunter machine for over a year before I hit it on accident...

I'll have to mention that to him, I'm 95% sure he's using a new Hunter also. I'll see what he says.
'76 Datsun 280z
LS1/T56 swap
11.77@119.98
363hp/353tq

#24 duragg

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 07:54 PM

John, is this the appropriate location to measure the ride height?

Wanted to get a visual lock on the exact measure standard we are using.

 

This isn't the great picture I wanted.  Location is just forward of the rear tire, outboard of that seem.

Attached File  rps20130107_194058.jpg   86.25KB   113 downloads

 

PS:  Please don't tell the authorities that Sasquatch is my mechanic...


Edited by duragg, 07 January 2013 - 08:05 PM.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1973 S30 (Gutted & caged NASA ST3) 2252lbs (dry & vacant) / VQ35HR/ 4.375 CLSD R200 / GC-Koni doubles / 275 R7s / Safety is a priority.


#25 johnc

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 08:30 AM

I would move forward from there a couple inches.


----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC

#26 RebekahsZ

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 06:27 PM

Where would you measure if your entire rocker panel is rusted off?  We are talking z-cars!

 

Seriously, does anybody have a suggestion for rear suspension tricks for drag racing?  I wonder if the rear toes-in under heavy accelleration?  Static camber recommendation to account for squat on launch?


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#27 JMortensen

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 07:49 PM

Toe should stay the same, discounting bushing deflection and control arm twist. If you want the tires flat, you need to start with slight positive camber.


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#28 docaam

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Posted 05 March 2013 - 09:13 PM

The problem Im getting here is the shops they dont have the OEM car specs in their system so they just deny to even check the alignment, whats the suggestion in this case?

#29 JMortensen

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Posted 05 March 2013 - 09:29 PM

Are there no race shops in Dubai? I would try and find one and then give them the specifications that you want and tell them to try and hit them. You'll need adjustable suspension to do anything though. With a stock Z the only adjustment is front toe, and maybe shimming a tiny bit of caster.


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#30 docaam

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Posted 05 March 2013 - 10:21 PM

Are there no race shops in Dubai? I would try and find one and then give them the specifications that you want and tell them to try and hit them. You'll need adjustable suspension to do anything though. With a stock Z the only adjustment is front toe, and maybe shimming a tiny bit of caster.


Hey John, couldnt find any shop who can sort it out on its own, they reply more on the data in the machine to start with. So how do usually guys measure from scratch the camber and caster? in my last attempt they read it on basis of 73 skyline kenmeri as thats the only datsun or nissan they had in their system.

I have coilovers (done by yourself) and TTT camber and traction arms so there is room to play around. But then in last attempt couldnt move the front camber mor eon negative side then -1.1 in the front toe arms came out

#31 johnc

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 08:55 AM

How to align your car yourself:

http://www.circletra...ar/viewall.html


----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC

#32 JMortensen

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 09:43 AM

Your coilovers probably came from John Coffey, definitely not me.

 

Adjusting the control arms for camber is a bit tricky because of the tie rod length issue. There have been some threads on that in the past, and bjhines and I made our own tie rods with 5/8" rod end outers. You could do the same or get camber plates for the top to get the camber you want without running out of steering arm length.

 

Here is another article on DIY alignments. Obviously the adjustments are not the same on a Miata, but it tells you how to set up the strings: http://www.quadesl.c..._alignment.html

 

I have a related question: caster is checked by measuring camber and then moving the wheels x degrees and checking camber again, and then doing some math to figure out the caster setting. In theory though, the caster angle on a Z is just the angle of the strut tube fore/aft, because the top of the strut is one of the determinants and the ball joint which is directly under the strut is the other. So wouldn't it be possible just to stick an angle finder on the strut tube and take that measurement directly instead of having to figure out how many degrees you turned the wheel? Seems like it should be more repeatable and easier for the at home alignment, if it works...


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#33 randy 77zt

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 12:48 PM

I was a suspension/brake tech at a ford dealer for many years.When I would have a track day coming up for my car I would do a track day set-up -Basically a special 4 wheel alignment just for the weekend .Then on monday or tuesday the car would go back on the rack for a daily driver alignment.This was basically just pulling out negative camber to a more street based setting.Having a nice laser alignment rack to use makes things easy.Where I live its hard to find any shops interested in doing anything close to custom work.Most of the employees at auto repair shops in my town get less than $20 /hr and are brain dead zombies that dont care about anything.



#34 johnc

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 08:41 AM

Your coilovers probably came from John Coffey, definitely not me.

 

Adjusting the control arms for camber is a bit tricky because of the tie rod length issue. There have been some threads on that in the past, and bjhines and I made our own tie rods with 5/8" rod end outers. You could do the same or get camber plates for the top to get the camber you want without running out of steering arm length.

 

Here is another article on DIY alignments. Obviously the adjustments are not the same on a Miata, but it tells you how to set up the strings: http://www.quadesl.c..._alignment.html

 

I have a related question: caster is checked by measuring camber and then moving the wheels x degrees and checking camber again, and then doing some math to figure out the caster setting. In theory though, the caster angle on a Z is just the angle of the strut tube fore/aft, because the top of the strut is one of the determinants and the ball joint which is directly under the strut is the other. So wouldn't it be possible just to stick an angle finder on the strut tube and take that measurement directly instead of having to figure out how many degrees you turned the wheel? Seems like it should be more repeatable and easier for the at home alignment, if it works...

 

I don't think the numbers are an exact match but if you get the caster numbers from a correct alignment you can measure the strut tube as mentioned above and use those numbers as a relative reference.


----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC

#35 clarkspeed

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 06:50 PM

I now use an digital angle finder on the control arms to set my ride height. 


S30 Motorsports: Restoring, building, and racing vintage cars.  Current projects: 71 240Z CP Bob Leitzinger tribute vintage race car, 70 240Z partial tube frame IMSA GTU vintage race car, 60 Mini Cooper vintage race car.  "If you are under control you're going too slow" - Parnelli Jones


#36 RebekahsZ

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 06:44 PM

I have my first autocross (in years) in two weeks.  I'm trying to duplicate johnc's recommended race settings as closely as possible.  But, because my EMI camber plates have holes for adjustment instead of slots, I am unable to achieve johnc's alignment specs exactly.  Here's where I am in front:  Either -2.5 degrees negative or 3.5 degrees negative.  The car is currently mocked up at -3.5.  The back is more adjustable due to Modern Motorsport adjustable LCAs, which I currently have mocked up at -2.5.  I don't really want to go more in back due to my drag racing setup (today's question is only about autocross). 1" bar in front with none in back due to exhaust/CV/driveshaft flange clearance PITA.  Tires are 225/50/15 BFG R1 on 15X7 wheels. Springs are 225F and 250R coilover with hypercoils from betamotorsports, shocks are Illuminas set at 3F, 4R. Sorry to be so specific, but my questions are pretty simple.....I just want to get things as close as possible before taking it to the alignment shop-I know there is no "right" answer.  I'm not looking to be national champion, just don't want to make a fool of myself in front of strangers.  I'll try to keep the hood closed.

 

2 specific questions for the forum:

1) Do you think I should keep the -3.5 up front, or decrease back to -2.5?

2) To set tire pressure, do you measure tire temps across the tread: 1) after a run around the track, or 2) do I need a constant turn radius like a skid pad?  I was thinking about starting at 26psi F/R and playing with my pyrometer.

 

Moderators, if this should be in the general suspension forum, please move it.


Edited by RebekahsZ, 23 March 2013 - 06:50 PM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#37 RebekahsZ

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 07:30 PM

I am using johnc's autocross settings and achieving a very nice wear pattern.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#38 ZT-R

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 11:46 AM

Me too Rebekah. I do have a really heavy steering wheel, but i just ordered an electric power steering rack so that should cure that.


<p>72 240z R.I.P.S. Forged RB30/26DET, BW 9174EFR, Series 2 AEM EMS , Endyn Pro Head, R.I.P.S. Intake Manifold & 90mm TB, R230 Rear End, T3 Suspension, ect...My Build Thread


#39 RebekahsZ

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 09:52 PM

Really missing johnc right now....


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#40 zredbaron

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Posted 12 September 2016 - 02:02 PM

Wow, I just dedicated a post in his honor today as well! Tremendous contributions...   :cheers:

 

 

 


Mark Haag
3.1L '71 240Z for autocross (XP). 2009 repaint, 2011 fabrication, 2011 race motor (RIP).

"Oh my god, how do you steer this thing???  It's like a tractor with that manual steering!!" --AS national competitor (Z06 type)





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