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1JZ 2JZ installation instructions for dummies,2 weeks, drive it!

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ok so i have an 81 zx has anyone tried this concept with the type of car i have, or would i need to completely pull something out of my ass for it to work?

 

 

You would have to get a custom oil pan built. The mid sump on the 1jz/2jz will hit the subframe.

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heres a post i made on celicasupra.com on how easy it is to get a 2jz aristo swap running. id post the link but not sure its allowed, so here is the key posts i made. hope it helps you guys with the wiring. these are specific to wiring it into a mk2 supra, however i listed what the wires on the 2jz harness are for, so hopefully it makes it easy for you guys.

 

post from 7/30/11

4 wires on the small ecu plug to +12v, and 1 pin on the body plug to +12v, then the gnd to the block, the power to the starter. power the fuel pump, and 1 more wire on the body plug triggers the starter. just fired my 2jzgte up today to make sure it doesnt smoke or knock. bought it yeterday. runs great as is other then a couple small vac leaks from vac lines. heres a vid. ill draw up a diagram in paint later and post it for you guys.

 

 

th_Picture.jpg

 

 

 

instructions below

i made these 2 pics big on purpose guys, i hope they help.

 

FI_028.jpg

 

large mk2 ecu connector behind the glovebox

 

toe1.jpg

 

ok, e10 is the only connector here you need to look at. the other 2 are the engine harness.

 

pin 1 is a black wire with orange stripe. it needs to be connected to ignition switched power. it goes to IG S/W on the stock mk2 ecu plug

 

pin 31 and 32 are both black with a red stripe. they need to be connected to the main relay. they receive power when the ecu switches the main relay on. the go to B+ on the large mk2 ecu connecter behind the fuse box (+12v switch. higher current so id put it on a 30 amp relay)

 

pin 33 is white with a red stripe. it gets constant 12v from the battery. this goes to BATT on the stock mk2 ecu connecter

 

pin 24 is green with an orange stripe which is the wire that triggers the main relay to turn on. this goes to M-REL on the stock mk2 ecu connecter (this needs to +12v that is ON while cranking. it would trigger the relay mentioned that supplies the B+ voltage)

 

pin 4 is green with a white stripe. it goes to the stop light switch. i believe this goes to the non powered side so that it receives power when you hit the brakes. only worry about this if on the stock ecu. it will likely tell the ecu when to cut the fuel off for deceleration which should improve gas mileage and driveability.

 

pin 16 is red with a yellow stripe. it is the tach signal. it will require a tach adapter like the msd 8920 to work the mk2 stock tach(or stock z tach as it is also analog). or do the resistor changes needed on the stock tach. there is a thread floating around here somewhere on that.

 

pin 28 is black with a red stripe and is the main overdrive switch. im guessing this needs to be switched to ground to have overdrive on. i recommend checking this wire while the ecu is switched on before connecting it to anything. if it has voltage to it then yes, it needs grounded to engage overdrive.(this is if you plan to stay with the auto trans)

 

pin 34 is black with silver dots on it. this is the ac amplifier. i believe this hooks to the stock ac amplifier circuit so that when you turn your ac on it will engage the ac compressor through the stock engine harness plug and increase the idle. the ac amplifier iirc will turn the ac off if the pressures are too high or too low

 

pin 23 is white with silver dots is the ac magnetic clutch relay wire. this should be what actually triggers the relay to engage the clutch of the compressor. not sure if this is the one that connects to A/C on the mk2 ecu plug or not.

 

pin 3 is green with a yellow stripe and is the kick down switch. im guessing the jdm aristo had a gas pedal mounted switch to make the auto trans kick down when you floor it since there is no kick down cable. if your going manual it isnt needed obviously, but if you stay auto, youll need to install a micro switch on the gas pedal or on the throttle linkage under the hood. then again it may drive fine without it. up to you.

 

pin 6 is black with a yellow stripe and is for the check engine light. it goes to "W" on the large mk2 ecu connecter.(id recomend connecting this to your engine light if you have one, if not, mount an led somewhere for it so you can check engine codes when needed. it will help troubleshooting issues tremendously!)

Edited by williamb82

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JZA147_Body_Plug_13-08-2008.png

 

this is the body plug on the aristo engine harness. hopefully you got an engine with the plug uncut like mine.

 

i cant list wire colors until i can cut a body harness plug out of an aristo at the junkyard. hopefully i can even find one. they dont pop up often.

 

pin f1 is the starter trigger. this goes to the wire you use to the mk2 trigger wire so that when you turn the key it will start the car.(in your case, the z starter trigger)

 

pin f6 needs to go to the main relay power. since it powers the injectors and coils etc.., might want to use the main relay (+B on the large mk2 ecu connecter)to trigger a separate 30 amp relay that is powered from the battery with its own fuse. (id use the same relay as the B+ wires at the ecu plug. thats why i recomended a 30 amp relay)

 

pin f8 is the oil pressure signal wire. if its like most other toyotas, it is the same range as the stock sending unit so should work the stock oil pressure gauge just fine. this goes to OIL on the mk2 ecu plug(if using your stock oil pressure gauge, use your stock z sender. the toyota port is 1/8in bpt as i recall. they sell 1/8th bpt to 1/8th npt adapters in case the nissan is npt thread)

 

pin f9 is the engine temp gauge wire. again, it should control the stock gauge just fine. (its not listed on the above pic, but should be a yellow wire with green stripe on one of the unlabeled pins of that pic.(if using the stock datsun gauge, use the stock datsun sender)

 

pins f7 and f11 are listed as grounds. i know they arnt needed for the engine to run. they may be to ground other items that go through this connector, but it wont hurt to ground these wires to the body.(as it turns out, they just ground stuff from inside the car. you dont have to hook these up at all)

 

pin c5 says ac_mg. i believe this is the wire from the ac clutch relay that goes to the actual clutch. you could just run a wire through the fender well from the stock mk2 wire into the cabin behind the dash to this, though there might be an easier way, i havent looked into it.

 

pin d1 is for the oil level sensor. the mk2 doesnt have a light for this, but i highly recommend hooking up an led somewhere with 12v power through the proper resistor and the gnd leg connected to this wire. id put it in the gauge cluster if it were me, and make it bright as possible. this will notify you if your oil level drops too low.(id rig an led waring light for this to let you know if your oil level is low.)

 

 

 

this info is free so you do not owe me anything, but donations are welcome! :D

Edited by williamb82

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This is one of the best threads ive read. I love every bit of information/link/pictures that is given from all parties! reguardless of the money i have in my heavily rebuilt L28et with a z32 trans in my 260z, the the JZ engines sure have sparked my interest recently!

 

thanks for an awesome thread!!!

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Sorry if this is a silly question but i feel like it wasn't expliciyly explained in the wiring advice above. So as far as the EFI relay goes for our Z's, we basically just get a 30 amp relay and wire pin 24 to trigger the relay and wire pins 31,32, and f6 to be powered by the relay correct?

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Not a Z but it ended up looking like this.

Sushi porker.

It has Datsun Z content, the cross engine brace started life as a 260Z  front swaybar.

 Tunnel rebuilt to take  the 5 speed auto (at the front) transaxle gone replaced with 3.08 Borg Warner LSD  -Weisack rear suspension retained, 

Porsche Cayenne rotors front, Porsche 968 (front) brakes fitted on the back.

Mk4 Supra Master cylinder and servo, Alloy radiator.

1380 Kg  3036lb (53% front, 47% rear)

It really upsets Porsche people, Lighter, faster, reliable, corners like a rat, plus- more economical, 12000 kilometers so far, and the only outlay has been for  fuel.

post-1944-0-86419000-1468030903_thumb.jpg

post-1944-0-01143400-1468030929_thumb.jpg

Edited by RUSSJZ-ZED

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