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identifying true year of S30

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my Z is confusing me. The guy sold it to me as a 77 but it was a 78 on the title, and the title didn't match the VIN on the car which is in the 240,000 range but the vin on the title is around 424,000 which corresponds to 78... i'm starting to think the car might be a 75 or 76, but is there any way to really tell lol. The rear bumper holes match up to those on my 75Z dunno if the bumper mount changed in 77 78 models

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ok i'm thinking i solved my own question it must be a 75-ish.... cause this is Dave's car and it's a later 280Z and notice the bumper mounts (not so many 'slits' in bumper)

l_bbb25236fda8940d9f9509ea3dd755c0.jpg

 

 

 

here are the bumper mount holes on my 280z and they match the holes on my 75 280z i owned before (more 'slits' across bumper)

2992748_2_full.jpg

VS

old car rear

2hgtx6f.jpg

 

 

 

sound right? just irritating and confusing as I need to make sure my registration and insurance are gonna be fine switching to a different VIN code lol (one on body, not title)

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Yours has the same holes in the rear valence as my '75. Easiest, most definate way to tell would be the rear deck, I believe. Does it have the raised rear floor?

 

raised as opposed to what?

I mean the rear area is higher than the floorpan area of course, but I have a fuel cell back there so I can't do the comparison for full/mini spare tire area comparison if that makes any sense.

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posted by m1noel

 

You really need the title, car, and registration to match. Something is wrong here.

 

No joke. If they don't match, you've got a switched title/salvage car/stolen car situation to deal with. Get it straightened out before you lose track of the seller.

 

jt

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raised as opposed to what?

I mean the rear area is higher than the floorpan area of course, but I have a fuel cell back there so I can't do the comparison for full/mini spare tire area comparison if that makes any sense.

like i said in my other post, check the location of the lock pulls. the later 280's have the lock pull a few inches more towards the front than the earlier cars. since this is not your first 280z, you have something to compare it to. if not, i can take a picture of ours for you, if you'd like.

 

can you take a picture of the door latches (im more interested in the one on the door jamb/rear quarter)? these also differ between early/late 280z's

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No joke. If they don't match, you've got a switched title/salvage car/stolen car situation to deal with. Get it straightened out before you lose track of the seller.

 

jt

 

the car was originally junked, the previous previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition and the car had some rust so he junked it. Then the previous owner got it from the junkyard and did some repairs and modifications and then I got it after him. Probably something about the car being put in the junkyard could have made for the switching up?

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Did anyone think to check the manufacture tag inside the driver door? How about the plate in the engine compartment? The door plate gives the EXACT build month.

 

I think i can still read the door one, the one in the engine bay is easy to see, it's in the shop but i'm prob picking it up tomorrow

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There is a VIN on the firewall. This is the most difficult one to fake. It is just above and to the left of the brake system. If it does not match your title, you got big trouble.

 

it's GA so the car is registered without a title (old cars dont need title) but on the registration it has the VIN from the old title. I need to see if ican just reregister the car with the other VIN

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Just as Mario and Sidwell suggested.

The firewall VIN is stamped into the firewall so that will be THE vehicle VIN. I don’t have one handy, but it he beginning of the Black Dragon (formerly Victoria British) catalog is break down of VIN numbers and the years of production for those VIN numbers.

 

The dash and door tag can easily be replaced. Also a few things on the Dash (if the dash and instruments are original), can distinguish the exact 280 model.

 

’75 280Z had and Amp gauge, in 76 it is Volt gauge with charge light. In 77 the font style of the instruments changed from the older 240/260/early-280 font to a more modern thinner font. Then in ’78, the Speedo also had KPH in blue font, in side of the MPH.

 

 

 

Firewall VIN stamp, above the brake booster on the firewall.

FirwallVINMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’75-’76 Door striker

75-76doorMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’77-’78 Door striker

77-78doorMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’75-’76 deep spare tire well and full size spare tire

75-76deepspareMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’77-’78 false rear floor with shallow spare tire well/space saver tire

77-789falsefloorMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’75-’76 speedo, (note font style)

75-76speedMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’77 speedo (Note font style)

77speedMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’78 speedo (Note font style)

78speedMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’75 AMP gauge (Note font style)

75ampMedium.jpg

 

 

 

’77-’78 volt gauge (Note font style)

77-78voltMedium.jpg

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thanks for all the awesome info, reps all around.

 

I have concluded

 

manufacture date 12/75

HLS30283966 (so assuming its a 76 model year car) made in 75

75-76 door striker/latch thing

has volt/fuel gauge, but looks different than 77-78 one so assume 76

 

everything points to 1976

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Lex, I have a 11/75 manufacture date on my 1976 the vin is 281,114.

I have a volt meter without the unleaded Fuel sticker my car required leaded gas.

You can see a lot of stock pictures on my website, there are some in the Cleanup area with parts removed for cleaning.

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