Jump to content
HybridZ
highly

280ZX Turbo CV Boot Replacement (56k Beware!)

Recommended Posts

junglist    11

Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them.

 

As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining....

 

Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set.

 

 

I saw this a few months ago and bought 2 sets!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jeffer949    13

Does any body know if it matters how you phase the 2 tripod joints. I rebuilt a set of mine and im having a bad vibration. I also added clutches to my clsd at the same time. The vibration is so bad on the passanger side that it worked the bolts out on my axle luckily i was only going around a corner at a crawl when it finally let go. Well any help would be great thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ibsys2562    0

I was just about to do this to my CV boots, thank you very much for the walkthrough. its really thorough, i'll let you know how it works out for me.

Good write-up. The forming of the metal band is great and obviously from the photos, appears to hold it tightly and evenly. That part was always the most challenging when it came to replacing the boots.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
nix240z    1

Since the pics are gone, I am posting pics of the way I did my boots.

 

pipe cutter #3 from harbor tool $20.. go slow and dont let the pipe cutter walk on you. You might  get a small grove on the axle side from the cutter but this will be ok.

post-18988-0-90888700-1371928137_thumb.jpg

 

Boot band cut in half.

post-18988-0-25672800-1371928178_thumb.jpg

 

NOTE: I used a small Dremel cutting tool to mark the exact location of the parts as they came off the shaft, so i would know the location as they go back on.

 

My cv's did not have a c-clip, the end was just pressed on. I used a 6" 3 jaw gear puller to remove the end

post-18988-0-48575500-1371928377_thumb.jpg

 

 

install  the new boots and reinstall the parts the same way as they came off. I used a 28mm socket to tap the end back on. On the shaft there is three places that the shaft was mashed down to hold the end in place. I just used a small chisel and mashed them back further after end was installed.

post-18988-0-69085700-1371928465_thumb.jpg

 

Pack boots with grease and put the Boot end back on.

post-18988-0-17321000-1371928728_thumb.jpg

 

At this point I installed a 4 1/2" worm clamp around the metal boot. This helps protect the metal as you start hammering the lip over and also keeps the band from wanting to bow out.

post-18988-0-00945500-1371929180_thumb.jpg

 

I also put electrical tape around the boot to also protect the metal while tapping the lip over.

post-18988-0-16877800-1371929354_thumb.jpg

 

At this point the lip is almost all the way around after tapping it. Small light taps will get the job done.

post-18988-0-08529500-1371929436_thumb.jpg

 

At this point I used some aluminum stock I had to tap the lip the rest of the way down. I did so tapping and moving along the ridge. You could use a socket and get the same result.

post-18988-0-67497900-1371929571_thumb.jpg

 

 

completed boots...

post-18988-0-36589300-1371929985_thumb.jpg

Edited by nix240z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
davek    0

good job nix 240Z

Looking at the usual auto parts stores. I see all clamp on boots.  They are pretty vauge about inner /outer boots. They seems to offer one that is twice the price. I assume the inner but the show a clamp included.

Where did you get your boots. And how did you remove the inner boots. Careful with a cutoff wheel??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jeromio    29

I think this article answers the phasing question:

http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/

 

But I have a question about the "end-cap". My boots came with a replacement for this cap that fits over the input shaft. But I'm hesitant to try to remove the old one under the "if it ain't broke" principle and also bc it is not obvious how to remove the old one or how to re-install the new one. Anyone have insight?

zcar_cv.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jeffer949    13

Normally I think its rather ridiculous when someone answers a question from a post that is many years old.  Not this time.  I actually just started working on getting my car back on the road this weekend and this is one thing i was wanting to get resolved as i still had a slight vibration. I clocked the left one at 60deg and it helped. Now i need to do the other one.  Thank you for finally providing a definitive answer. 

 

 

I think this article answers the phasing question:

http://thinkfastengineering.com/2012/10/tripod-clocking/

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×