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jmai86

Just finished s13 coilovers into s30

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This is pretty cool, I am very interested to see the pictures of the installation.

 

I assume this would only be that easy for 240z struts since theyre OD is just a hair over 2". I believe the later 260 and 280z strut tubes were bigger, so the tube would have to be thinned down some before you could press fit anything onto it.

 

i was just about to attempt something like this... i was thinking of welding on the serialnine weld on strut tubes and then just threading on a set of coilovers, but those things are expensive ($260/pair).

 

http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104

 

your way is MUCH cheaper. lol. good thing i don't have to be the guinea pig. lol.

I like this idea - basically using an adapter to set the strut tube to a common threaded size. It would give the user some flexibility in choosing which brand of coilover you want as well.. but the parts linked there a bit expensive. I may have to draw something up and see what a local machine shop will charge for making a similar part. I'm curious what is the common size and pitch for the threaded coilover tubes?

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:worthless:

 

This looks like an awesome alternative to the other coilover options that are currently available, but I need to see pictures of them installed and if you noticed any other problems with them yet.

 

I was going to order my new struts/springs soon and this thread just put a hold on that seeing as these S13 coilovers look like a much better route.

 

Please post pictures soon :mrgreen:.

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Sorry for the wait, I've been pretty busy.

Since I don't have many pictures during the install, I'll try to describe it as best I can... I'll be using some photos from the racinjitter's SERIAL9 install found http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/2/2006740, since I don't have photos to illustrate some things.

 

This install is very similar to the Arizona Z car coilover install found here:

http://www.arizonazcar.com/coilover.html

 

Some thoughts first:

I originally used DC2 Integra coilovers, but they dumped the car undriveably low. If you do some research and measurements, you won't need to use s13 coilovers. As long as the perches are 2" ID, you can use them. I thought about using the serial9 perches, but they are just ridiculously expensive.

 

I apologize for the crappy write up, but I didn't think to take pictures. BUT, it's very straightforward and if you can use you head you'll figure it out.

 

(NOTE: when I say "perches", I am referring to the sleeve perches on the coilovers, NOT the ground-control type ring perch).

 

What you'll need:

4x s13 coilovers with 2" ID on the lower sleeve perches, I used EMUSA coilovers

2x extra front perches, since the rears of the s13 coils are most likely going to be aluminum, and you need steel perches.

 

These are teh exact coilovers I bought:

DSC03898.jpg

 

 

"Special" Tools:

Sawzall or sawing tool

Dremel or similar tool

Access to hydraulic press

Access to welder (optional)

 

That's it!

 

Process:

 

1. Prep the coilovers you just bought:

- Remove lower perches

- Toss out rear perches, you won't need them since you have 4 fronts.

- You can choose to cut off the s13 mounting brackets, but you don't have to. They don't get in the way on the Z.

- Measure how much smooth tubing is inside the perches, from the bottom, before the threads start. This is how much of the Z strut tube you'll want to keep when chopping the Z struts.

- Cut a notch in 2 of the perches, to accommodate the notch on the spindle that prevents the perch from sitting flush on the hub spindle.

- Remove top hats, you won't need them

- Re-use the top washer and one of the bushings from the top hats, and install as shown:

 

DSC00559.jpg

 

Done!

 

2. Dissassemble your strut/hut assemblies. Disassemble top hats.

 

3. Chop off your Z struts, keeping 1-2" of strut tube left depending on your previous measurements of the coilover perches.

 

4. PRESS on 4 front perches onto the remaining section of tube. This will be a VERY tight fit, so you'll need a press. Press it on all the way.

 

Serial 9 perch being pressed on, press on all the way to the base of the spindle:

 

DSC00720.jpg

 

5. After pressing, you can choose to weld the connection if you want. I don't think you have to, since it's a very tight fit and should hold with the weight of the car.

 

6. Thread on coilover bodies onto the perches.

 

7. Grind out the notch in the Z top hats where the shock passes through. You'll see it. Grind it so that the coilovers can pass through.

 

8. Slide top hats on.

 

9. Re-use the coilover top nuts

 

10. Re-assemble everything.

 

11. Zip-tie brake lines onto coilover body (ghetto but it works for me)

 

12. Set ride height and preload.

 

Some of my photos:

NOTE: These pictures are when I DIDNT weld or press on the perches all the way yet. These were just test fits! The weld-looking stuff in the pictures is just goop!

 

NOTE2: The base of my perches have black spray paint on them

 

DSC00560.jpg

 

DSC00562.jpg

 

DSC00553.jpg

 

DSC00554.jpg

 

DSC00552.jpg

 

 

The ride isn't terribly bad. You can use softer springs if you want more comfort. Just press on the perches to 1-2" of strut tube, and press them on all the way to the base of the spindle, and weld.

For anyone who says this install looks ghetto, you can do a much cleaner job if you spend a bit more time on it and pretty it up. It's very simple. It's not much different from sectioning struts, except this time you're cutting most of the strut off and pressing on the s13 coilovers.

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5. After pressing, you can choose to weld the connection if you want. I don't think you have to, since it's a very tight fit and should hold with the weight of the car.

 

You MUST weld this connection! If your parts are not welded together DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you take the parts off and get them properly welded.

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If anyone is going to do this, PLEASE do a full write up. I basically understood everything he was saying, but I would feel much better seeing a step by step.

 

This sounds like a GREAT alternative, and am looking forward to maybe trying my hand at this. I am also keeping an eye on that Fortune Automotive option as well.

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Thanks for the write up, that looks like it works pretty well for you. Though I definitely agree with John about welding the strut tube to the sleeve.

 

I'm still wondering if it would be possible to get something like this to work on the thicker 280z strut tubes. Obviously press fitting is out of the question.

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The serial9 adapters are not universal. They were made to fit Stance coils. You'll have to verify that the threads are correct for your specific coils.

 

And anyway, why pay $500 for 4 tubes of steel? It's insanity.. these adapters were really made for cressida owners who just need 2 to do their specific conversions..

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I just got off the phone with EMUSA and they will not sell just the perches. The perches that were picked up were more than likely off a damage set, of which they do not currently have.

 

I did however mention buying two front pairs and this is something that could be done, however it would have to be a group buy to make it happen. I do not have an exact number that would be needed to make a purchased.

 

How many people would be interested in something like this?

 

One concern I have, is using a front coilover in the rear.

 

Considering we are using China crap, there maybe no difference. I know the spring rate will be the same as the front, but I am considering going with a different spring anyhow.

 

Let me know what you think, or if there is a better alternative (with a budget in mind).

 

Thanks,

 

-Andy

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I just got off the phone with EMUSA and they will not sell just the perches. The perches that were picked up were more than likely off a damage set, of which they do not currently have.

 

I did however mention buying two front pairs and this is something that could be done, however it would have to be a group buy to make it happen. I do not have an exact number that would be needed to make a purchased.

 

How many people would be interested in something like this?

 

One concern I have, is using a front coilover in the rear.

 

Considering we are using China crap, there maybe no difference. I know the spring rate will be the same as the front, but I am considering going with a different spring anyhow.

 

Let me know what you think, or if there is a better alternative (with a budget in mind).

 

Thanks,

 

-Andy

 

Hm that may be the case, as the pair I ordered had some scratches on them. You can try contacting my guy to see if you he can get them for you. I forgot his number but here's his craigslist ad email: [email protected] (hope this is ok per forum rules).

 

If you can't source another pair of fronts, you can always try to find s13 coilovers with steel perches all around. Just make sure the ID is 2". You will also need to cut off the mounting portion on the rear perches too. The trouble with this though, is that most coilovers with steel perches all around are much more expensive. However, with this route you'll have a much better set of coilovers with dampening adjustment and etc, and you'll still pay less than the available z coilover conversion kits.

 

I'm sure EMUSA is made in taiwan just like all the other megan copies, which are not necessarily crap for street use. Track use, I'm not sure. But I have seen megan coils tracked.

 

You COULD use front coilovers all around, but the height adjust ability may become disproportionate front to rear due to the difference in shock body length. (ie the rears wont go as high as the fronts, etc).

However you could work around this by cutting LESS of the strut tube in the rear, so that the coilover sits higher than the front. The reason I didn't do this is because I didn't want to risk having my welds fail mid-strut and having it all drop. By having the perches pressed all the way down to the spindle, there is extra protection as the load is directly applied to the spindle, as it was designed to be.

That and the spring rates would be the same around.

 

*EDITED with more info

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Wow, looks great.

 

Off topic, but what is the specs on you rims, i.e. offset/width?

 

Also, hows the ride quality? Those coilovers prolly have some high spring rates.

 

I am thinking cheap ebay coilovers and replacing the springs for a more streetable set-up.

 

Also, where did you find the extra front lower mounts used for the rear?

 

Sorry I missed your inquiry. The wheels are 15x8 -25 Eagle wheels. This size won't fit without rubbing in the rear if you're as low as I am, you'll need flares.

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I might give him a call. Thanks for the info.

 

About the difference in coilover body length, couldn't this be remedied by leaving more of the existing strut tube?

 

Oh, and what are the specs on your wheels?

 

Thanks in advance

 

I edited the post with more info. You could leave more of the strut uncut, but you'll have to be sure your welds will hold as the coilovers won't be sitting on the base of the spindle anymore...

 

Edit - oh and you could use the s13 top hats if you do some cutting I think. I just didn't need to do it for my street purposes.

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Can you drive to my house so I can take and post up pictures? Or would you like to take care of this by yourself?

 

 

What photos would you all like? I don't see much else to take photos of, unless more photos of the disassembly/re-assembly is wanted, which I won't do haha since it was such a laborous ordeal to remove the rear assembly with only hand tools and no help.

 

*Also my setup is now welded on so I can't disassemble anyway.

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I sure I know how you went about this. But if its not to much troble could you take off a wheel in the front and rear, take pictures of the suspention ie.. Were the coilovers are welded to the hubs, were they blot to the body and overalls? Im not trying to be an a$$, Im just trying to have some closure. Thank you for your time and good day.

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I sure I know how you went about this. But if its not to much troble could you take off a wheel in the front and rear, take pictures of the suspention ie.. Were the coilovers are welded to the hubs, were they blot to the body and overalls? Im not trying to be an a$$, Im just trying to have some closure. Thank you for your time and good day.

 

Oh no worries. My camera sucks and turns on when it feels like it.

But, the weld is just like seen here, in this serial9 adapter install found at http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/2/2006740 (this isn't an install into an s30, but the idea is exactly the same)

 

 

Pressed down to spindle:

DSC01796.jpg

 

Welded:

DSC01797.jpg

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