All Activity

They are super light, I’ll get a weight on the shell this week and share, and in a few months when I get around to installing them I’ll get a full weight with windows/hardware.

Those are incredible. I'm with Mitchel on needing to know the weight difference. You gotta put them on a scale for us. Very interested in fitment and your thoughts along the way. They look like they allow for roll up windows and factory door handles too. very nice.

I would love to see a full weight comparison between the original and carbon fiber door. I know from lugging my 280z doors around that the factory doors are quit heavy.

Carbon fiber door and door cards came in, these things are super sexy 🥰

Without the oil cooler, my water temps were never an issue. Never over 200 on track. When I put the Aviaid Mangusta pan on the car it had a provision for an oil temperature sender. Even though my water temps never got too hot on track, once I installed an oil temp gauge, I discovered that my oil temps were getting near 300F. I added the Setrab 34 row cooler, and my oil temps stay below 250F.

Used a Dremel and the water pump pulley on.

Thanks sharing the pics. How do your oil temps do? I’m thinking of going with 2 smaller coolers so I can mount them right behind bumper on the sides to get direct air. My 370Z over heats at the track with oil cooler, intercooler and radiator all stacked.

I threaded bolts up, looks like they’ll fit, I’ll find out soon.

On my car, I am using the SN95 timing chain cover, water pump, and pulleys. By doing so. I have a couple of extra inches of space at the front of the engine.

bolt pattern looks too small to. maybe just the photo?

Snugged up harmonic balancer and installed pulley. Water pump pulley doesn’t fit, hole in center needs to be slightly bigger, about the size of that indentation. I’ll get that on another day.

I should give him a call. I've talked to him several time when buying the parts. I read the PDF off ztrix site to a body guy and he was not confident in the success. but John may have some better ideas.

Looking good! You're motivating me to swap over in the future. But I think when that time comes I want to rewrite the whole care and tidy things up. Decades of splices here and there into the main harness has gotten messy despite being functional

waiting on apex engineered LS mounts to come in Tuesday. They sent me some to see how much I need to modify them to make them fit on the LT motor. Then there gonna make some to start offering for kits

John Washington (ZTrix) would probably be a good resource to talk to....he's been building/installing those for many years. I like what you've done with your front core support -- did something very similar on my car when I replaced the front frame rails. Great progress -- love seeing your updates!! 👍👍 https://www.ztrix.com/

Many, many discussion threads on this exact topic. Here's just one; but it should be helpful for you. You didn't mention if you had done any body or suspension work, so I'm assuming you are stock all around.

I'm real hesitant to try and mold the rear fenders. I have mixed feeling of molded vs "bolt/riveted on". So many Z guys mold them but very little details on longevity, expcially from something that is going to see excessive speeds, heat, vibrations. ETC. Anybody have any real world longevity experiences and installation techniques?

Although this is supposed to be mostly a race car, this car is a example of what I can build so and don't like cutting corners so changed my plans and going a bit further than originally planned. Pulled the glass (should have done that months ago). pulled the drivetrain and started sanding. Cut the arches for the rear overfenders. welded in the rear marker lights, fuel filler door, antenna, and started smoothing firewall holes etc. Hoping to get it in primer ASAP and start on body work. Found a few "easter eggs" under the paint but nothing too unexpected. Going to take the engine apart for a health check since its unknown. Depending what I find will be what I do. Hoping to see a healthy engine and just do basics. JZ are tough so feeling optimistic.

Screw up fixed, new oil pan is on. Had to modify windage tray for rear pick up to fit. Started on the harmonic balancer, not sure it’s on all the way, hopefully I’ll get a little more time tomorrow.

I believe the winged maxima pan is the diesel pan

Older S30s won't charge without the dash either. The exciter wire runs through the ammeter.

Try willtheyfit.com

Committed to new tires. Far less weight to balance them as expected. The inside was more worn than I realized on the old ones. Went with Yokohamas in 205/55/15. Skinnier than I wanted but they were half of what the 200tw options were, weren't so aggressive, and they'll give me a couple more years of use before I spend bigger money to go up a size. Currently working on getting the AC condenser and drier mounted with the new hardware from vintage air. I'm hoping the drier JUST clears the intercooler, but I'm anticipating it being tight. Will be making new lower brackets for the intercooler as well. You can see in the pic they're extremely bent because they were so flimsy. As they say... Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution.

Came here to post that. I do know the infiniti M30 won't charge if the dash is removed. I found this out at PBIR in 2010 during a test and tune and found it wasn't charging so I drove back home to riviera beach with lights out.

Some maxima oil pans have "wings" but most I've seen were simply front sump.