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Always an inspiration Mark! A lot of what you do is well out of my abilities, but seeing your project still being refined after so many years keeps me motivated on mine.

So I had moved and left my car behind, but now that I'm back I did some more testing. I was unsure how accurate the knock sensors were as I was seing knock retard even when the motor was not in boost. Turns out they are 100% accurate. I put in some 104 octane and gave the car a spin. 99% of knock retard was gone. It is now quite obvious why people blow these motors so easily. I was getting knock retard throughout the 7psi (absolute PSI so 7 away from being "in boost") band from around the 3.6K+ RPM when using just 93 octane. I was getting up to 13 degrees timing pulled at higher boost. With the high octane it was only pulling timing at 14PSI boost, with a resulting spark advance of 20degrees. It will spin tires in 1-4th gear easily.

Thanks guys. I got the timing cover and water pump on, ordered a windage tray then I can get the oil pan on and start working on the top. Mounted the fuel regulator started making some fuel lines. Need to figure out filter placement then I can cut and finish the rest of the lines. I’m using black for fuel, red for return and blue for vent.

Nice, you’ll be good. Yep, I went with same gearing, but I got a 3.3 in the rear.

I plan on boxing it all to the grill opening as well as venting the hood just behind the radiator. direct air in and give it a place to go. I have 2.87 first and .81 5th. I have this gearing in a 2jz 240sx with a 3.73 rear and pretty happy with the ratios. so i'll see how 4.08 rear gear works with it on the local tracks.

Looks good, what gearing did you go with the on the TKX, I got same bell housing too. I would definitely do some ducting to help get all the air you can through all of that. I have a TT 370Z I track occasionally, oil cooler/intercooler/radiator all stacked similar to you, after about 5 laps or so I need to do a cool down lap to get temps back in range. Adding some ducting is on my to do list on that car.

Interesting! I have never heard of keeping it all together like that, you'll have to update as time goes with how it holds up! I'm sure with the outer layer being glassed it will be fine though

Cage is done. Driveshaft arrived. its comically short. i dont know if i even mentioned it in this thread. I bought the engine with a 350z six speed and tried to fit it and didn't like it so i switched to a tremec TKX 5 speed with a scatter shield. lighter, smaller, better gearing, serviceable. shifter position is great, and not 20+ years old. Mounted a 240z ebrake handle in place to help connect to the 300zx rear cables. Started getting the dash sorted. FIA bars are certainly making it extra challenging to do a clean install. Pedal box is in and throttle pedal is fitted. I don't know what the pedal is even out of but it was sitting in a box that came with the car so I made it work. feels good on the foot. Mounted the heater box to the tunnel. designed and 3d printed some ducts that go to the factory defrost ducts. i also added a small foot diverter for the wifes feet as shes always cold. Mounted the oil cooler. went thru a few ideas between laying it flat and ducting it, stacking it. putting one in the wheel well. etc. Although a 3 stack is not ideal i decided to try it. Can always move it around if its impeding flow to the coolers behind it to much. probably do some sort of screen infront of everything when its on track to keep debris from damaging it. Got my front valance quickly mocked up. I forgot the headlight buckets were a bit beat up so added that to the list of things to fix. drivetrain is basically all set so I am pretty close to pulling everything out and starting bodywork.

Not a mold. I just left the original 3D part sandwiched between the outer layer of fiberglass, bondo, and paint used for fit-and-finish, and the inner layer of carbon fiber used to ensure the whole part is stiff enough to last.

EXHAUST SYSTEM REPAIRS- My 240Z Exhaust Pipes were damaged from scrapping them on Speed Bumps. I found a cracked at one welded joint and a few exhaust leaks. Since repair required their removal, I decided to raise the pipes higher as the same time. I designed this exhaust system so that whole system consists of three major sections. First -Front Section goes from Hooker Exhaust Manifold to the X-Crossover pipe. Second Section runs from X-Pipe to the Rear Right Angle Exhaust Pipes. The Last Section finishes at the Two Turbo Mufflers. So this repair and raising the pipes only required the Intermediate Pipe. Also, since I used Evil Energy V-Band Clamps to connect the pipes, it was a simple job. The Intermediate Pipe Mount consist of 1/2" Steel Rods bent at 90 degrees and bolted to the Differential Housing. To Raise the exhaust pipes, only the Mating 1/2" Mounting 90 degree Rods had to be shorten. Pic of Mounting Rods cut off and rewelded Pic of Mounts Powder Coated and out of Oven Pic of Fully Assembled Exhaust Mount Evil Energy 2 1/4" Lap Joint Clamps( Amazon $20 a pair) Rubber Exhaust Pipe Hangers(Amazon-$6 a pair) and 1/2" Steel Rod-Bent to (90 Degrees-Home Depot) Right Side Pipe Mount Left Side Pipe Mount The Exhaust Pipes were raised about 1 1/2". The job can be accomplished in one days if materials were at hand.

bummer about the bolt. pretty common SBF flaw. Engine looks good. TKX will be great addition. They fit the tunnel pretty well. I have one behind my 1jz

Sorry, I misunderstood the question. It's a much easier proposition if you're just looking to flip it, IMHO....particularly if you can attract out-of-state buyers. Every state has their own unique requirements for titling and registration, and prospective buyers will (should) know that going into the deal. You will typically have to sell it "below" market value without a title, so be sure to factor that into your decision on how to proceed.

Just looking to sell it, can I sell it without the title in place for someone's project car or do I need to obtain title for a transfer (is the main question). Thanks!

Ugh...broken bolts in the block. What a pain. At least the motor was already out of the car! 👍 Making great progress -- keep the updates coming!!

Part 8-The Roll Cage is now installed so the Roof Area is being prepared for the Gull Wing Door Build. A Major Obstacle that I foresee the Transmission Tunnel and Firewall may have to cut open because of the Huge Mercedes Motor and Transmission. But if they are willing to Eliminating the Tunnel and Widening the Firewall Opening, they should not be a Big Problem.

03-16-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: My welder showed up today and welded up my cross bracing and a few spots on the trans tunnel where it touches the firewall. While here, he pushed on the outside of the windshield as I pulled the rope and got the windshield in. Tried to get the hatch window in, but it wasn't wanting to do it. So, I will have someone help me with that rear one later. I went ahead and installed my mesh cover for the turbo.....I had to go down a size to clear the engine. I got started on putting the door frames back in and getting the windows working right, more to do on that. PICS:

Got timing cover painted. Spent almost half the day dealing with a bolt on the timing cover/water pump that had broken off in the block. Tried all types of extractors, ended up having to drill it out and re-tap it a size bigger. Got the oil pan off and installed new pump and pick up for the new baffled oil pan. Got the main seal on, set the timing cover on and called it a day.

Congrats...that shell looks pretty dang straight! As much as I hate to admit this, you'll probably get quicker/more responses to that particular question via Social Media. I can recommend some pretty good Z-car pages on FB, if you like. I wouldn't usually recommend FB for technical questions/discussions....but for an administrative question on a re-title, it might yield some good results for you. Again, welcome to the forum; and please keep the updates coming as your project progresses. What are your plans/goals for the car?

I can do App for Replacement or Transfer of Title with a new registration, looking for other experiences without a bill of sale, plate, registration etc. before walking in there. I did confirm not stolen or salvaged.

I'd probably start asking questions at the DOL/DMV. Maybe see if you can figure out who was the last registered owner, or if there is a process to get a lost title/registration.

Hello, new user here, I’ve got a 1972 240z barn find, VIN: HLS30-69341, no registration or plates, looking for any interest or suggestions on reregistering non op at the DMV without being the clear owner…will add pics

That has got to be the best balance of Form and Function of a Datsun that i have EVER Seen!! Absolutely amazing!!

Dang, that looks so tight, turned out amazing! So they printed the part but then used that to make a mold I'm guessing? That's not the actual 3D printed part?

if anyone's still tracking this build I have what might be a last update since the car is mostly done (lol is it ever done?). I finally cad-designed the front fenders and then had a local shop 3D print the parts, then took that to a bodyshop to integrate into the existing fender part and paint it. After that I overlayed the inside walls of it with carbon fiber for added stiffness and protection. I also cut the lower part of the rear fenders and put in a horizontal cf winglet to better extract air. Overall I think it looks great and the resulting new parts helps downforce a ton by extracting air from the wheel wells.