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02-15-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Started off pulling the plugs, putting the transmission in neutral and putting a wrench on the crank balancer. I wanted to ensure it turns over easily and thus I know that the trans is together correctly. It's perfect . I then swapped the AC Delco plugs it had for some NCK Iridium plugs as recommended on the 4200wiki pag., but put a daub of anti-seize on them. the old plugs were tough to get out! Dissimilar metals and all. Then I installed the coil packs and got them sitting in their flush. I then decided to grab the wire numbering book and start separating and numbering wires and then cut them at strategic points to cut back on the number of splices needed. after that I spend quite a lot of time pulling the wires out straightening them out, only for them to snarl again, So I then used tie wraps and not fully tight but enough to hold them and then I was able to separate them, move the majority of the wires that go on the driver's side over there just laying across the bellhousing behind the engine for now. Then I took some measurements to begin the process of making a trans mount. I then went ahead and drug out the dash and center console, and by a quick trial and error was able to cut out the floor of the console, leaving a lip around the edge so I can make a metal floor to put in there with some nice finished bolts and paint the metal, probably a matching hammertone black like the dash center I did earlier. Then I took the dash, the gauges, and the cover inside and then cleaned up the dash with Lysol cleaning wipes and then took the tube of Silicone the cover come with, and having done this before I remember how to do it. You want to ensure the silicone is in the places with direct contact, around the gauge faces in the deep pockets, etc. After that, it is a process of using duct tape and pushing to get the cover on tight and then the duct tape pulled tight to hold it tight overnight. It looks funny, but one of the last pics shows how I grabbed whatever was around with some weight to it to put on the top to assist the tape. Tomorrow I can pull the tape off and it will be ready for gauges, God willing. PICS:

I don't really want to. I want to make this work. Thanks.

@rand Did you ever find out the problem? I am in the same boat. If you remember...

Oh yeah, I know. But even without a helmet, I would rather bang my head on FIA padding than on a steel tube.

@Oki570Z Quite a bit of work. I wanted the tail ligths to fit like if tho it rolled out of the factory line.

Some modern cars run CV joints but the transmission usually has a fixed output flange. I've never seen a CV joint slip yoke. What angle is the engine sitting out? can you get away with tipping it back a couple degrees?

Anyone have any experience getting a custom driveshaft with CV joints? That is the way forward for me.

steeper driveshaft angle. U joints will have a short life. Oh well!

02-14-2026 Happy Valentines Day! Today I got the transmission in. Took a long time. I left the pilot bearing in the freezer overnight, and I was able to tap it in easy. After I installed the clutch and made sure to use the ARP lube on the bolts, I started prepping the trans tunnel. I had to cut off the factory trans ears and grind them smooth and gave them a quick coat of paint. Then the hard part started. After trying and trying, I realized the trans tunnel just wasn't going to let it happen.....so I started cutting it out from the firewall back about a foot or so, then more and more..... little at a time, as I needed the room. I did keep the pieces cut out, As I will cut and modify and have a mobile welder come and weld them back in AND while here weld a thick steel flat plate about 3-4 inches wide the trans area and passenger floors to add more reinforcement for the power level of the engine. I was able to use a floor jack and level the engine up, and now you can see in some of the pics, what it looks like level.....yeah, dusty but you can still see it. My center console will be modded with the center floor cut out leaving a small ledge on both sides so I can make a custom aluminum floor. The shifter mechanism will be left fully exposed, I love look. It makes the shifter throws SO SHORT! So, big day. All in, now need a trans mount underneath that will bolt through the floor into plates to hold it, the reinforcement plates across, and eventual console mod. I got VERY dirty! Cheers! PICS:

Back in the early 90s, I had the fortune to chat with an engineer from a IMSA World Challenge team. I had noticed they had done a ton of stitch welding to the shells and was curious if this was done for increasing torsional strength. He told me on the new shells they used saw no improvement from this, and they did so they could easily repair crash damage. He did say that for an older car it would most likely show improvements, but you'd need to test before and after to get any idea of the improvement, but he didn't expect it would be all that much. One easy improvement can be done by gluing in the windshield rather than using the stock style rubber gasket. I helped a friend do this on a 280 used for Chumpcar racing. With the stock seal the chassis would understeer and after it oversteered. From a feeling change it was like adding a triangulated front strut bar. @Ironhead I know you've accepted the risk of driving the car with the roll cage, but I did want to point out that FIA padding is meant to be used with a helmet, not your noggin.

Part 6-Major Problem delays SEMA PROJECT A major problem occurred in using a late model 370z suspension into this SEMS SHOW car. Its wider size and different mounting points created a a major obstacle in this condstruction, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhZrC-0JPWQ&list=PLi4p-ATl-NoVr3H2ww92Lj9Y8y

hello im touching base about this to see if you have anymore info about silvermine motors kit a long with the adjustable control are set up for the r200. did you have luck?

I didn't post anything else anywhere about the build. It's difficult to quantify the effects of the stitch welds, partly because I hardly drove the car at all before tearing it apart. I can say now that the body shell is extremely solid, and does not feel like a 50 year old car, but that's subjective of course. The bottom line is that I installed more than three times the HP and torque the car was designed to handle, and I think it just makes sense to strengthen up the structure in any way you can. So I did the stitch welds in addition to beefier frame rails and an eight point cage. Of all of it, I'm pretty sure the cage would make by far the most difference. I drive it on the road without a helmet, but I do use a (snugged tightly) six point harness. I also have FIA roll bar padding everywhere that my head could possibly contact. Obviously the car is nowhere near as safe as any modern car, but I'm comfortable with the risk level. It's sort of like choosing to ride a motorcycle. You accept the risk, stop thinking about it, and enjoy what you're doing.

Awesome build! And highly informative. Do you have an IG or similar so we can see more? From your exp, were the stitch welds worth it? I want to do a 1JZ swap aiming for 450 hp. I’m adding F and R strut braces with the AE F/R subframe mounts. Frame rails are kind of a must, but drilling out all of those pinch welds gives me nightmares. Also, the engineer in me knows I need some sort of rear to front — top to bottom load path, but I’m also 6’3” and I want to safely drive the car on the road w/o a helmet. So l’m thinking a harness bar that bolts into the UPR/LWR seat belt locations would be better than nothing. pick of my build attached. Just painted this.

License plate light from Amazon arrived. mount and tie in and the electric for the back half of the car shell is done. fuel system still will have to be finished.

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste. I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only. AWESOME! So glad to hear that.

This isn't just a track only build, just track focused, it will see plenty of street time.

I'm actually a big fan of over building the chassis and breaks. I will deep dive into various part as I pull the ZX apart. What I don't use will get parted out. So, if anyone is looking for parts from this donor let me know. I got the car cheap, I'll let most stuff go cheap. The engine, trans, and diff are my main targets.

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste. I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only.

02-11-2026 ATLAS Z update: I got back half of the car all wired in except for a license plate light I am waiting for it to arrive. pretty cool LED unit I found on Amazon for 8 bucks. Got the headlights almost in. I always have a problem with this job. I had to break out the angle grinder and mod to get the driver's in....unsure so far far with the passenger one. Strange..... it REALLY fought me. I also got the 10AN line between my main filter and pump in, so it is ready for installation. PTFE lines take some work.

Thank you. a bit overkill but im happy with how it came out. I hadn't planned on making them but no reason i can't. I can get some material and when i get some down time i could make another one.

up here in the north east we get some great fall scenery for cruising but can get a bit chilly so the heater will be used for that aswell. but the defroster on a raining track day will be important. Thank you. love being creative during a build.

Yep, same here. I'm on my 8th build right now, and still have designs in mind for several future projects. Despite the advent of numerous social media platforms, we're still getting new members on a regular basis; and there are always nods to our forum from the social media pages for technical data, expertise, and assistance! I need to give a HUGE shout out to @SuperDan for keeping this forum going (even at his own personal expense); and all the dedicated Mods & Admins that put countless hours in over many years to make the forum what it is.

Happy Birthday HybridZ. I’m a little over one year into my V8 track build, this forum has been very helpful 💪

The seats may be worth keeping, if their condition/design/material are something you'd want in the 240. The diff may be an R200, which is often desirable (even if it's an open diff). You mentioned the rear disk brakes from the ZX....really not worth considering unless you're planning to upgrade the stock front discs on the 240 (all of which is largely unnecessary if the 240 is street-driven, IMHO.) The rest of the suspension/steering is not typically transferrable -- the S130 design is significantly different from the S30. Nice-lookin' 240, BTW! 👍👍 And welcome to HBZ...happy to have you!!