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  2. Nobody? Maybe I should have put this in the general S30 section
  3. Yesterday
  4. I have a bone stock 78 280z that I have had for about 20 years. About a year ago it would just stop running like someone shut it off. If I waited 15 minutes it would start and run great again, I thought it might be the ignition relay and changed it but it didn't help. The first time you start after re-attaching the negative battery cable it starts and runs great, When I shut it off the red brake light in the speedo comes on and so does a little red light in the ammeter that says charging. I can also hear a humming noise that I think is the fuel pump. I think it may be the igni
  5. I never got any specific answers as to why but I can upload things now. I think I was able to a few days later if I remember correctly.
  6. Oh, and I've done some measuring up of the XTD RB26 flywheel and clutch in comparison to my std flywheel and ACT clutch in the current engine. The current clutch collar is 24mm tall, and the XTD setup is 5.5mm taller than the ACT setup, so I'll be going with an 18mm clutch collar, which I *think* is the standard collar for S13/S14 FS5W71C gearboxes.
  7. I took the old engine out at the weekend to take the head off and get the Kameari twin idler setup off and on the new engine. This week the head is being drilled for M12 bolts and the timing cover finished. I've also been measuring up and making lower engine mounts. It's more complicated than I imagined, since the mount faces on the cross member are at an angle and 15mm shorter mounts will lower the engine more than that I think - and the engine brackets end up hitting the mounts below their mid point, so I think I'll have to do something to correct that, maybe. Anyway, I hop
  8. Primer and epoxy coated (white) the rear strut mount so I don’t paint over the bolts when the coat the whole interior. Moved back to the cab in the meantime. OEM fresh air intake is old and brittle, so I created a new flange from 4” steel thin wall tube. Worked out pretty well. Now I can mount ducting to the driver when the car is nearly complete. The white stuff is weld-through primer, and deeper in the air box is 2k epoxy sealer.
  9. because i like the zg look but i would like more than 275 up front. dont really wanna go wide body. i currently have 255 on zg up front.
  10. Last week
  11. nzarano


    look into some motorsport anti vibration (AV) mounting. Pretty much just grommets on bolts but if they can survive in race cars they can survive most things...ifused properly!
  12. nzarano


    will definitely be messaging you for info as i doing an na to turbo conversion and planning on going this route... its simple enough but powerful enough but not extremely well documented for the Z which has me a bit on edge.... do you have any xl files or other planning documents youve used? I want to make sure i get all the right sensors etc and theyre all compatible and someone has maybe used them (so a comprable basemap can maybe be had...) Building a motorsport grade harness (or trying.. deutsch connects are crazy expnseive!) so once I have a list of components can
  13. I'm having this problem right now. Ever figure it out?
  14. Fuel Venting Hoses- One of the problems of the 240z is the Gas Smell in the interior of the vehicle. Leaking Hatch Weather Stripping,Leaking Tail Light Housing Gaskets, and Leaking Fuel Vapor Hoses. There are Three Different Fuel Vapor Hoses used in the Fuel Tank area. The usual sizes (inside Diameter) are 5/16", 5/16" and 3/4" Neoprene Fuel Hose. Instead for searching for various sizes of Rubber Hose Sealing Grommets, I decided to fabricate my own. These were four for $4. The Local Hardware Store had 1" or 1 1/8" Wooden Chair Leg Tips. First, I
  15. Thanks all!!! I have the ground control bolt-in units. I can rig something up if I need .25-.5” more droop Probably weld-on some custom cut fender washers into the plate and get longer bolts, but for now I’m happy
  16. Looking good! If you find you still don't have the desired height, if you happening to be running T3 camber plates, they make 1" riser blocks that drop right in: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/riser-blocks-camber-plates
  17. Done re-sectioning the struts! I added as much tube length as I could, but still only ended up with a 1.65” and 1.7” spacer in the bottom of the tubes. If I need to add anymore, il have to Bush the camber plate mounting to the tower. Should be much better than before though!
  18. It's been two days and the people who donated still haven't been acknowledged. The site seems to be on autopilot, nobody's at the helm.
  19. Marugen Shokai http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/ Can also get them from RHDJapan: https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-works-over-fenders-standard-type-s30-s31.html Designed for a front G nose car, so lots of modifications needed to make em fit a standard car with or without an airdam.
  20. Can you afford a wideband gauge? I could give you some tips on using that to tune your AF. You can tune the RPM fuel increments while idling at various RPM’s, and will need to be on a deserted road or mostly empty freeway to tune the manifold pressure fuel increments since you need the load. Stick to 4th gear which is 1:1 on most transmissions. Glad you got it to idle better. Definitely check your timing with a light. Suggest using factory settings to start. I can take a picture of my 280zx Haynes manual if you need the numbers. Always room to tweek the timing after you get your AF ri
  21. You need to chill out on your timing . It’s hard to see the pic , but you have a ton of timing at 100kpa. I run NA - so can’t help you above 100. You are bringing on way too much timing too early . I wouldn’t be above 33 degrees at 100kpa anywhere on the scale for now . I don’t bring in full timing(36) until around 3000-3500 rpm . ESPECIALLY with a turbo build I would get more conservative . As said above - verify timing with a light . Verify timing marks on pulley . Your VE tables look wonky too. You are pulling fuel way early - before you make full torque . Id suggest finding a t
  22. Has anyone swapped the pedal box from a 260/280 into their 240? I'd like a new and larger booster/master combo. The Toyota Tacoma option would work great, but my 72 has the earlier booster bolt pattern. I'm capable of drilling four holes, but the 240z pedal box looks like it would need some metal added, so I figure it would just be easier to use the later pedal box. Is there anything else that's different between the versions? Are there issues mounting the steering column? I guess I'm planning on going EPS anyway, so I could just grab a 280Z version of that if necessary.
  23. Thanks for the advice. I did as you said, and redid my timing map from scratch. It idles pretty decent for the most part. Idles better than it did previously, even. I guess I'm beginning my learning curve from scratch, too.
  24. What kind of flares are those on the rear? I looked through the 9 pages and didn't see a brand or name.
  25. Yeah man... plywood sounds cheesy but it is super durable. The wood is laid in alternating grain so it is uniformly strong in both axis. Great stuff for an application that will see a lot of vibration, rocks, flexing
  26. Great input guys, many thanks. I think what I will do is take the damn splitter completely off while breaking in the car and ironing out bugs. Driving on the road, damage is inevitable. Or just leave on the ABS one until it destructs. Looking at the photos, I think even with six turnbuckles, the ABS still would not hold up.
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