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I would suspect that you could copy the values from almost anyone's VE and AFR Tables that have a close to same stock engine with your injector size and be much closer to smooth than what you have now...

It’s going to be tough to ‘feel’ your way around a tune and trying to dial it in off your VE table . I would get some help tuning - like is in a passenger that can drive while you tune . If you think the wideband is even close I would use it to get you in the ballpark . Put some realistic numbers in your AFR table and try it

good evening gents ! Small parts that takes time has happens, washer fluid bottle bracket, lower radiator hose, radiator sitts were it should, homemade thermostat housing. As we have holiday in Sweden tomorrow i'm going to take the engine out tomorrow for further work in the engine bay, ac lines, heater lines,weld old holes that is not in use, electrics(wire loom) and so on😴. Have a nice evening

Good news, looks like I found my issue, the power does not cut and the fuel pump works perfect. My issue was the signal wire being loose on the DB37 connector itself. I also redid the power connection, but I'm not sure if that was contributing to the issue, I just redid it to cover my own wiring. With that issue out of the way, tuning is now my main priority, which is tough with these AEM issues now. I think the gauge is reading correctly as when it shows lean, it does lean misfire, and does bog down when it says it rich, but I don't trust AEM after your reply Madkaw and what I've been reading the past few days. I hear good things about innovate, which DIYAuto offers, I'll probably just pick one of those up. However, I am trying to make it to Carlisle import here in PA on Saturday, so I'll just have to tune by feel and sound. I really just need a drivable tune, not for power or economy. If you guys have any tips based on my fuel table provided, I would appreciate it. I know my afr chart needs to be worked on a lot, but that really isn't in play atm.

I had nothing but issues with an AEM wideband on a customers car . After googling I read about many customers having issues do to faulty O2 sensors that AEM knew about .

I'll repeat myself one last time, the issue is with power to the unit. Look at the symptoms, all the outputs from megasquirt are cutting off at the same time. Check your powers, check your grounds, check your relay, use your brain.

Looking at this picture, I have my dizzy wired as follows (Color on pic - My wiring): Red - 12v from shielded wire, Black - ground from shielded wire, White - Signal wire to ms, Green - Not used. Reading other posts from Chickenman, using the diy wheel flips the green and white connections, but when I put the signal wire where the green is, ms does not read any rpm signal? Wonder if this is part of my issue?

I have an AEM 30-0300 wideband installed after the turbo. It works well and passes tests to ensure it is working properly. The issue is, I can’t get it to sync properly in tunerstudio. Tunerstudio will only display 19.10 afr when on the aem 30-3xx wide and calibration setting where the gauge will display 14. The tunerstudio value doesn’t really change, and I have wideband authority set to 0 so it doesn’t change anything. I’m pretty sure have it wired correctly with power, ground, signal to pink, and heater ground. I do have the upgraded version of tunerstudio, but I haven’t been able to use tuner analyze because it’s not the correct afr reading. I redid my fuel pump ground the other day just to rule that out, and both power and ground connections were tight and clean. I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with the dizzy, as Zboi pointed out that I loose rpm signal when it happens. I’m going to go through that wiring today.

Now that I looked at your AFR table and VE table I can see why it doesnt run well. Do you have tuner analyze? Its very good

Curious why you arent incorporating the AFR table in general settings? . Sure you dont have a loose connection on the fuel pump?

Got some good logs today. Seems like it's getting some noise. Although, what's weird is that tunerstudio doesn't always flag it as noise. Attached is a tooth log and composite log. Some pages of the composite log show it missing or not being able to interpret a whole section of the trigger wheel 5.csv 2024-05-07_11.43.23.csv

Megasquirt has it's own switched 12v. My circuit goes: Battery - Key on relay - fuse block - megasquirt. The dizzy has it's own 12v + ground from the shielded wire. What do you mean by another wire from switched? Are you saying the ecm needs 12v from the batt with a fuse, or switched power? I wired everything according to the attached pic.

You need to be pulling a power wire straight off the battery to the ECM, and then another power wire from switched 12v.

Yes, that's the fuel pump relay clicking, and yes, the tach signal is coming from megasquirt. At the Dizzy, I have the power wire and signal wire connected, and then ground going to chassis. I have tried grounding at both the chassis and dizzy connection, both have the same result. I have noticed, in tunerstudio, I do get quite a bit of sync loss on the counter, however, tooth logs seem to be fine.

Ok, so heard a clicking sound which was at the same time your tach signal cut too (RPM needle dropping instantly). Is the clicking the fuel pump relay or something else? The tach signal is coming from the megasquirt ECM right? If yes then this is the power to the whole unit cutting on and off. Either from bad power/ground or faulty ECM.

Wow, so helpful.... Obviously, this is new to me, and I'm working through it all on my own, besides the posts I've made where people were actually supportive and helpful. If you've even tried to read what my messages say and my other posts involving megasquirt, you can find the information on both my status regarding car, wiring, and megasquirt knowledge. I literally said in the message right before yours that knew it was off and running rich. I've since adjusted my fuel ve table as to where I Idle around 13 AFR and ~12 cruising. Attached is my tune and an engine log. At the end of the log is where my fuel pump started to cut out. It seems to still happen randomly, I can't narrow down when it starts to cut as it does it when decelerating, at idle, or when on the throttle. Maybe somebody can simply help look at my tables and offer some guidance. The car runs fairly good and smooth, so I don't think my tables are "way off". I can't blip the throttle at idle to rev or to downshift, the car just seems to sputter, so I know my tables need tuning, but they aren't undrivable. My main issue is this mystery fuel pump cut. Don't bother to waste my time if you have nothing to say. engine log 1.csv CurrentTune.msq Fuel pump cut.mp4

Thanks so much for all of your efforts, Ryan! Very excited.

Literally just needed to change one setting from rising edge to falling edge and we're good. Had to find another tooth angle after the change, but that's easy to do. The AEM wideband was fixed by just grounding the brown wire. Drove it down the road a bit and let the auto-tune hit some target AFR's. It's definitely running better. I've just got it using wastegate pressure for now. I can hear it spool and release, so the BOV and all that stuff are working fine. I noticed I'm sitting at 60-65kpa at idle. I know my Schneider stage II cam is probably the culprit. I also need to do a hot lash of the valves, as they're a bit noisy. Hopefully i don't have a vacuum leak'

Has anyone identified a 1/8th NPT temp sender that will work with the stock 280Z temp gauge? I tried the one below from Amazon but it just shot past 250 deg as soon as it registered. Zcar depot has one but it looks a lot like this Amazon one. I have an aftermarket thermostat housing and am already using the 3/8 npt port for a MS3 sensor. thx!! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B085QBP6HR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Chinese .63 A/R t04E with the billet compressor wheel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174278894818

Sweet, looking forward to seeing how this goes! The powertrain is begging for a 3.9 or 4.10 rear but that's easy enough to change whenever.

What turbo are you running?

Got everything tuned up a few months back, the car runs great, the power feels like its strongly in the 300s, but I can see that the cylinder head is holding the motor back. Quite sure there is detonation, as my computer keeps thinking there is, and the power is not really increasing at all above about 14psi. I think I will add a flex fuel sensor and try adding some e30 or something. I don't have enough injector to go very high on the ethanol content. Then again, it is quick enough as is. All in all I'm pretty impressed in how much this motor woke up with this setup, the turbo spools so quick that even off idle it feels like a much bigger motor.

Thx. I will check out classic. No chance on original engine her father had the car for some 20 years and he got it that way.

Yeah, I've never been a huge fan of 4 cylinders in a S30. It's one of those "sure, it's okay for you, but it's not for me" kind of things. But the K series is definitely more interesting the more I learn about it. My trans I picked up is definitely an AP1, and I'm aware they're slightly less desirable than the AP2, I haven't found any good indication that they're weaker. (note the 'AP1' as the 4-6 characters) AP1 bellhousing with internal slave cylinder conversion (will likely try to source parts to convert back to external slave) As for placement, yes it's a long transmission, but the design would lend itself decently well to modification if necessary, as the shift rod is of a single rod design and already travels a long distance to the interface with the forks. That said, it's looking like it will work "as is" for at least a first iteration: The engine might sit further back than this, but probably not much. Which puts the shifter here: If I put the tranmission back to where that shifter is just touching the back edge, then the bellhousing face is definitely behind the plane of the firewall. So I think it'll work without fuss. And for those playing at home: AP1 Net ratios (has internal reduction) 3.634 2.372 1.718 1.347 1.126 0.941 AP2 Net ratios (same 1-4 but different 5-6 and reduction gears) 3.785 2.470 1.789 1.402 1.139 0.922 And with a 3.545 R200 on 23.85" tall wheels: AP1 AP2 You can see that 6th in particular sits quite a bit further out, increasing overall spread of the AP2, but the added reduction makes 1-4 end quite a bit sooner, while giving relatively identical RPM drops as the AP1. The AP1 by contrast, gives you slightly longer legs 1-4 but 5th and 6th stay a bit tighter with smaller RPM drops as compared to the AP2 for 5th and 6th. Either way, the fact both transmissions have internal gear reduction and yet are geared surprisingly narrow, makes this a good fit for a higher revving engine in a chassis that isn't running super high ratio differentials. In a perfect world I think I'd still opt for at least a 3.7 diff, if not maybe as high as a 4.10, but let's compare this to something like the CD009. CD009 Notice that the RPM drops between gears are much larger, and the overall spread is much wider. This would certainly work well for a VQ which has a much broader torque range and falls off a bit on the top end, yielding a wider HP curve. But for a K24 where you want to stay up on VTEC to have fun, the CD009 trans would suit something like a 4.44 final ratio much better. The BRZ/FRS transmission for reference, has a pretty sizable drop 1-2, but stays decently tight 2-5 and a big drop into 6th which is fantastic if you want to run a super high ratio diff but still want a good highway cruise RPM. BRZ/FRS Now, another common option for K series transmissions would be the BMW E30/E36/46 transmissions, so we might as well add those to the comparisons (since I have dozens of these transmission ratios saved anyway). The BMW 6 speed: The BMW (E30) 5 speed: The BMW (E36) 5 speed: The BMW E46 also had a 5 speed option for a bit, and is relatively close/similar to the E36 5 speed. The ZF 5 speeds all end with a 1:1 5th gear, which ends up being pretty awkward so the better suited option would be the ZF 6 speed, but even that one has an awkward "rising" spread shift, or gets tighter and tighter. This might be good for a lot of driving situations, but my goal is making a car that's fun on the street, as well as fun doing HPDE/Autox events. I want as narrow of a spready as I can get 1-3 if not as narrow as possible 1-4. To that end, the AP1 or AP2 are both stand out options. Also, just because, here's the AR5 Would suit a V8 torque range nicely... Shifting a 6500 drops you to 3900, 4300, 4300, 4700 rpms. Very wide 5 speed, with decently spaced gears, though maybe a slightly close 1-2 shift. Not so idea for something super high revving, but I can see why a lot of LS people use it.