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  2. Found a few vids on YouTube about these little bastards. One said you needed a different throttle rod for the linkage to work with the stock components.
  3. You didn't mention what the purchase price was; but that certainly looks like a pretty solid shell from underneath. If it's been west coast, or Colorado area, it's whole life, that bodes favorably for being close to rust-free. If you haven't already done so, pull the carpets up and inspect the floor pans, firewall, rear shelf, and spare tire well from inside the car. The ice pick idea from bunkhouse is a good one. What kind of "project" are you contemplating? If going for an all-original restoration, then obviously the condition of the interior and drivetrain can be as big a cost factor as the shell. If contemplating a track car and/or engine swap, then that stuff is obviously less important.
  4. Sometimes when you get focused on a problem you spend more time making it happen than figuring out how to make it not happen. I can make my drivetrain clunk if I want to, but I tend to drive it in a way that it doesn't clunk. The Z drivetrains are kind of sloppy. Six u-joints, a loose tolerance differential and old worn out transmissions. Once you've minimized all of the slop all that's left is to smooth out your driving skills.
  5. The pictures show a pretty normal old "survivor" car. Dents from speed bumps, light rust. No red flags at all. It even still has the damper weight on the diff mount crossmember so nobody's been modifying it. But for $10,000 you could probably find a nicer 1977 280Z. I don't see anywhere near $10,000 of rust repairs on that car though. Value depends on plans.
  6. Today
  7. Since you seem to have the funds going for an LS6 instead of some version of the 5.3 like so many people, Apex or Hoke are definitely going to be your highest quality options, though you definitely pay the price for them.
  8. I'd arm myself with an ice pick and crawl under it. Anything that looks suspicious, gets poked. Even a small blister under the paint can hide a rust hole.
  9. Not sure what your friend is referring to, but it looks like a good solid '77 280Z to me.
  10. I'm looking for a 240/260/280z project car and could use the forum's collective knowledge on a 280z I found. I know to expect some rust on a '77 Datsun (and with this car I would be OK spending up to $10k for rust repair and paint) but I want to make sure I'm not missing major red flags. What do you think about the vehicle shown here? A friend mentioned that the area where the control arm mounts looks like it is separating and the seams down the side looks like it has filler (and there may be some rusting through around there). And, yes, I know it's impossible to know for sure without seeing it in person. I honestly just want to know if it's worth dragging my mechanic friend across town to see the car. Thanks!
  11. Years ago I had the dreaded clunk. I found the source by putting the car on jack stands, started it up, pulled the e-brake and had a friend shift into first and reverse while releasing the clutch. I was under the car and saw the nose of the differential going up and down as he let out the clutch. New bushings cured the problem.
  12. Glad to hear thats a normal amount of play in the diff. It still confuses me a little that if I can make the diff clunk with my hand that it wouldnt cause a problem when its connected to the engine? I have all new bushings on the car, including the transmission mount and control arms. That seemed to cover a lot of the things listed in the faq thread. Thats why Im still looking at the diff even though I know its usually not the culprit. The transmission is out of the car right now and didnt notice any play in it either. Ill see if I can find anything else tonight.
  13. A part that can easily be replaced once i get to the hp goals. What's your point? Test fitting a customers cradle in my rusty pile of a datsun before final weld. Now that everything checks out I'm building jigs so i don't have to take my car apart every time someone wants a cradle and uprights.
  14. Don't overlook the other mounts. I've had a couple of broken motor mounts in other, bigger, cars and that's what you get, one thunk as the motor sets back down. Feels like you ran over something. The transmission mount is designed just like the diff mount, and the mounting member itself has rubber on the ends. All could cause problems.
  15. Installed a Champion 3-row Radiator with their fan/shroud combo . Found some Rubber insulators at the hardware store to buffer it . The Radiator comes with overflow tube guides, I had to bend them off to fit the shroud Used the Fans as a guide to drill and tap the Aluminum Shroud 1/4"-20 The Champion Radiator fit extremely well, the welds are great too.
  16. And a LS6 motor. Looking for a T56 right now. My initial question is. Who makes the best quality, easiest kit to mount this combo? I am looking at BrokenKitty.com's kit and CXRacing kit. Are there others that I should be looking at? Thanks in advance
  17. That doesn't look abnormal. This thread goes over a bunch of causes:
  18. I'm trying to find the source of my rear end clunk in my 280z. I have the R200 diff with the improved front mount and new bushings on my mustache bar. Bolts going into the mustache bar are tight. I'm getting a clunk whenever I accelerate or decelerate. It's only one clunk. My U-joints don't seem to have any play in them. I've tried them in and out of the car and don't see any play in them. The only thing I can find is in the attached video. The driveshaft flange going into the diff can rotate some with the ebrake engaged. It makes an audible clunk if I turn it hard enough. Is this a normal amount of play here? Or can I assume this is my problem and I need to start looking in the diff? DiffPlay.mp4
  19. Yesterday
  20. Ya, my mistake - my old brain had ton = 1200 lbs stuck in it, rather than the CORRECT ton = 2000 lbs. Good thing I'm not selling things by the pound... Nothing to see here... Never-the-less, decent weight for a complete Z car.
  21. Zufelt, welcome to the forum. Looks like you have a pretty solid car but rust is everything on these cars, no matter what else you do get rid of the rust, cut it out, blast it out, whatever it takes. Just about everything is available for these cars one way or the other so it's all do-able. Yes, very easy to get that feeling "What have I got myself into" That is a dangerous place to be, many excellent projects have been abandoned at that point. So focus on one section or system at a time, sort of bite size jobs that you can complete and see your progress. When I'm tackling a big job like sanding the shell down to bare metal, I like to have 3-4 smaller jobs going as well so if I get fed up with striping paint I have a nice fun little project on the bench that I can complete in a short time. I have used POR15 a lot and unless you follow the instructions to the letter it will fail in a short time and even when your application of it is perfect it's really not better than 2k epoxy primer on bare metal. It's a different chemistry but necessarily a better and it's very easy to screw it up. So as the other guys have said make a list of the important things you want to do and let the rest slide. You can post a question on the forum for anything, you will get lots of good advice here.
  22. Yep I found these too but the diagrams don't seem to show a finned version as I seen on some other parts illustrations. Just wondered whether any one could check on a parts fiche perhaps to confirm. Thanks for the response.
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