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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/22 in all areas

  1. The 0.120 DOM is going to be stronger than the the rest of the components you are bolting into. If you every get a large lateral hit (curb/pothole) what is the fuse that will blow? I'm not sure how you are welding studs to the strut but I'd personally weld on brackets that allow me to bolt to the strut using a much smaller (shorter and smaller diameter) bolt that is in the same orientation as the strut tube. These can the connect to a monoball or the rod end as needed. Another variation is to weld the monoball cup to the strut tube and use a clevis on the control arm to bolt to the strut.
    1 point
  2. I don't know how much I'll need to shorten the arms by, but I was thinking exactly the same thing this morning while at my kid's dentist appt. My rear struts are nearly topped out. I could make a spacer that bolts to the existing camber plate and lowers the top of the strut to clear the bottom of the plate, then just slide the top of the strut farther than it is now and maybe get the pos camber I need that way. I do have Ground Control plates, so they're not like the shitty ones that have 3/4" of adjustment that you get with BC coilovers or something like that. I don't have any of the axles that I was having made back in the day, so I'd need to figure out the CVs. If I did something on the top end I wouldn't have to mess with that. Might have to cut back the plate on top that the roll cage is welded to.
    1 point
  3. So I had a driver controlled braking issue. I didn’t stop in time. mechanically fine, my fibreglass is amazingly strong but needs repair. The car sat at about 110mm off the ground, without rubbing guards. I have now dropped it another 25mm and guards were engaging tyres. Rather than repeat some bodywork issues I decided to create a little more space. Category rules are must have front bumber but can extend 100mm forward for undertray and 100mm wider on guards. Gonna try my luck making a full front clip. Very time consuming, but oddly satisfying. Fellow competitors pay upwards of $10k for a front clip (mold and one panel set). Mine will be stronger with lots of Kevlar and prob $2k with replacement panels at half that price. Aiming for less than 25kg for whole front (guards, bonnet and front spoiler).
    1 point
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