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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/04/26 in all areas

  1. The Video is the most detailed Rebuild of the Power Brake Booster Unit. As the 240Z family goes older, aftermarket rebuild boosters are getting harder to find. In some cases, they are impossible to find so rebuilding maybe the only solution.
    2 points
  2. Nice! Back in 2009 I couldn't find a rebuilt 280z booster so I was going to buy a booster repair kit, but later figured that I might need special tools. I was able to find a rebuild shop in my city to rebuild my 280z brake booster. The shop specialized in rebuilding truck brake components.
    1 point
  3. Have you mounted the headers to the engine while on the engine stand with the cradle in place? It will be much easier to clearance your cradle before everything is in the car.
    1 point
  4. Made some progress on the engine cradle. I should be ready to drop the engine in and mark where to attach it to the frame. I’ll be using some angle iron to sit on the frame so the cradle will be welded to that then bolted to the frame.
    1 point
  5. I still have struts on all four corners. Because of this, I am limited to how much backspace I can accommodate with my wheels. All four of my wheels are 15x10 with 5.25" backspace. I run 3/8" spacers up front and none in the rear. So, a 15x10 is actually 11" wide, and a 5.25" backspace is equivalent to a -.25" offset. If you look at the steering geometry of the strut suspension, I have a fairly significant scrub radius. Having a large scrub radius causes a couple of problems. First, the tire sweeps forward and backward as it goes though the range of steering motion. This can cause the tire to contact the fender / air dam. Second, if you have sufficient caster, the tire will rise and fall significantly causing weight jacking effects. If I had the sla front suspension, I would try to adjust to fit the wheel with the most positive offset that I could get. This would minimize scrub radius and maximize control arm length. You will get less weight jacking as you turn the steering wheel, and the wheel will rotate about a point closer to the center of the contact patch.
    1 point
  6. Picked up a drill press on marketplace and started drilling into this thicker metal for the engine brace. Got the two pieces that will connect to the engine mounts drilled and bolted up to the engine to try and figure out the angles to attach it to the brace. I made some marks and will cut it and drill it next weekend. We got a lot of rain so I spent most of my time trying to adjust the front suspension. I got one of these wheel fitment things a few months ago and it was saying I needed some negative off wheels to fit I so started adjusting the track width to get it close to a normal offset. Lots of adjusting the toe/traction/camber arms but I think I got it in a better spot. I’ll start shopping for wheels later this year. I have a set that will work temporarily, but are narrower than what I want.
    1 point
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