Brad-ManQ45

I have an '83 ZXT w/Eibach springs and Illuminas - ride is pretty nice - much less motorboating. I personally wouldn't do KYB's.

Thanks for everyones help. I hadn't been aware of the superram.com site. All said and done, cost isn't so much of a consideration as doing it right to start with. I was actually thinking of going with an iron block for the LS1, but have no idea what the intake is like compared to the LT1 or StealthRam...

Body style is personal preference. As a daily driver - how much traffic? I had a '72 351CJ Mustang, and the writeup in Hot Rod at the time said the automatics and manuals had the same time in the 1/4 mile. The torque converter plays a big part in this. I personally have an '83ZXT that has been modded w/ a T5. The '75 that I will put a turbo'd V8 in will have a 4L80E in it because I'm tired of shifing in traffic. I'll probably give the ZXT to my stepson...but not 'till I'm done with the Z!

Not so much of a concern, but the best way to guarantee a lasting solution. I ran across that site a while ago and am glad you like it. I was wondering what paints could be used over this as a top coat, assuming I were to use this as a primer/anti-rust coating while the long process of bodywork goes on...

Thanks RacerX, you answered my questions well! The PA I was referring to is Phosphoric Acid, which I assume your RustMort is and other products like OSPHO. I was most interested in the treatment of the PA'd area prior to primer obviously. The issue of the body filler and using another coat of DP over it was to seal it to prevent moisture affecting the filler. I don't know if and when time and budget considerations will allow me to be working on the car, so I have to assume I will be doing parts of it piecemeal until completely ready for the top coats, hence my worries about moisture and rust. In my situation, I am doing a ground up, with replacment floor pans, fender patching and a rear quarter panel replacement. I will also be removing the drip rails. I was considering using the DP series primer, which I assume will require a breathing system. My concern of course is rust. After doing/welding each area, I want to coat it with something to prevent rust. You have stated that you like the POR15 product, and I was considering this for the underbody, but would DP be better? Is there a non-CA product (single stage) that would work anywhere near as well as the DP from PPG that I don't have to worry about carciogens? Thank You SO MUCH for your willingness so supply us with your expertise. Brad

I prefer DynoMax UltraFlows to FlowTech. Much quieter and less resonance....

No' date=' it was EverCLEAR. [/quote'] And that's why so many suck...

Not necessarily - I was inquiring as to what intake manifold would be a better match for the requisite - mid to high end power/less torque at the low end. I'm not sue as I wouldn't use an iron block (Vortech?) I would assume from your answer you skipped stating that the Early Block/Stealth would create more low end than the LS1 w/it's intake, possibly less top end. I hate to assume anything which is why I asked your opinion of the intakes and what their strengths/weaknesses in this scenario would be. It may be that by its' design that the LT1 manifold may be better....of course, I could use the LT1 on an early, but I could get the LT1 block and not have to adapt it.... LS1 might be more $, but over the long run? Little more enlightenment from the GURU please...

Turn signal lights betweeen the headlights in top grill = late 260/280. If thery are at the corners under the bumper early 260 or 240.

Just personal opionion here, but if they aren't Mililite(Panasport), BBS basket/Mesh, or Turbine type, I just haven't got the desire for it on my Z... Turbine types will be too small unless I could find some 0 offset 15/16 X7 or 8 in a 5 lug pattern. I am leaning toward Panasports myself...

Thanks for the reply Grumpyvette, I'll try to be alitle more specific in what I am looking for: I do not want a lot of low end for this engine as it will be going in my Z, and want to bias toward the top. A lot of this will be compressor-side related, but package-wise would like the intake to follow the same guideline. Which of the 3 generations intakes might prove better in this scenario? I obviously don't need a lot of low end torque in the Z and will rely on the turbo(s) for building the high end. Ii'm not looking for much more than 6-7 hundred HP, so if I went the LS1 route simply replacing rods and pistons should do me, so between early and LS1 might have a wash on prices (maybe wishful thinking here), so would the LS1 intake be better or the Stealth Ram? What would you expect lowend/midrange/topend torque wise (everything else being equal, which of course can't really happen but let's say so just for kicks and grins) out of these three manifolds? Since I'm not going super-high on HP I would probably sick w/stock heads in the case of LT/LS 1's, and eithe TFS or AFR for early gen...

Hi Grumpyvette! Hope to take advantage of your expertise which has always been highly valued... I am having a real problem deciding on what engine series to base a turbo SBC on: PRO's for each as I see 'em: 1st Gen - around forever/cheap 2nd Gen - LT1 - Reverse Flow Water Cooling 3rd Gen - LS1 - Choice of Aluminum or Iron Block and strong bottom end, R/S ratio. CON's for each as I see 'em: 1st Gen - 2 piece rear seal, less flexible w/accessories like A/C w/JTR 2nd Gen - Less Flexible w/accessories w/JTR mounting 3rd Gen - More bucks The telling factor here is that I will be using an aftermarket engine management system, as the stock for LT1/LS1 doesn't handle boost. I haven't heard of a good MAF one out there yet, but maybe I'm out of touch, and I understand that there may not be the neccesity of the reverse flow of the LT1 with the LS1 because of better head design as far as keeping the combustion chamber temps lower. By going to speed density and an aftermarket system, I realise with the LS1 I am giving up a lot of what makes the engine so great from a fuel efficiency standpoint, but wonder which engine series would wind up being best for the $'s. Perhaps others would also like the benefit of your wisdom, I know that I would. A thought on the intake manifold design as it pertains to turboing (Stealth, LT1, LS1) would also be appreciated... TIA, Brad

RacerX - some of the directions I have read said to just go over the areas you are painting with a Scotch-Brite pad and not sand. I am sure the sanding w/80 grit will provide a lot of tooth for the paint/bondo to stick to though. If you used the 80-grit BEFORE using the PA to get as much rust off, and then used the PA, would you want to use the 80 grit again? Also, I heard that ideally, you would lay a primer coat on, then use poly filler, and then another coat of primer to seal the filler to avoid moisture problems. I got this from the paint store locally, and was referring to using DP primer both times. I know Bondo is probably the most generic of all fillers, and I heard Monarch makes the best. Do you have any preferences, and is what I was told true about using the filler? Thanks.

If you're going to get a header, then make sure it's ceramic coated inside and out. A high flow cat would be good too - Random used to be the best AIR, but have no idea now - your performance oriented muffler shop should know. MAKE SURE you get a mandrel-bent exhaust.

I personally like DynoMax UltraFlows...

tres kewl... I will now attempt to eyeball your engine location and two other methods to see if there is any major advantages/disadvantages. Thnking mainly about accessories - P/S and A/C...

What rubber moubts are you using for tour setup? I am of course assuming that it is not solidly mounted...

6.5" is too narrow for 255/60's and handle well...

I'm sure they are both 90 degree engines. I would suspect deck height and head width to be the major culprits, but not having both engines side by side couldn't say...

I would like a copy and could post it on a web page for others so you won't be bothered...

Congrats!

I have an '83 FSM, and in the diagram for the engine room harness, the only Black and White Wire is for the inhibitor for an Automatic GL. Perhaps the '81 Diagram would help: http://viewyachts.com/chris/yellowz/81ecuharness.jpeg.jpg According to it, the "T" shaped connector w/Black & Green wires is not used. Assuming the blue wire in the lower picture is actually blue & red, that connector is for some sensors - w-temperature, thermal transmitter, air regulator, efi relay... Sorry I couldn't be of more help but nothing matches on my wiring diagram.

What year ZX is your harness from?

http://home.comcast.net/~brad-man/index.html This should get ya'll to the ITS cage article on my page

Get one from a Q45 if you want a 3.54:1 ratio. The 300's had like 4.10...