Brad-ManQ45

The 305 has the same stroke as the 350 (3.48"). 307 & 327 had 3.25", 283v & 302 3.00"

Use dry ice to make it brittle then chip it off...

Ditto on Charlie...

Siock injectors are only good for ~240 hp, which you should be able to do w/o intercooler - T3/T4, 10 psi and exhaust....

Your ground clearance will go to hell.

Bummer Ross, sorry to hear this.

The blue looks a lot like the color on my zxt - an '86 Jeep color that is close to the Bryar Blue '72 vette color...only bluer.

Read this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29983 I don't think it's any coicidence that the Cam Maker you picked is not on his list...

The crossmember spacers raise the body in comparison to the wheel centers...don't they?

If you're using a stock turbo, tou're asking for trouble w/o an intercooler. A T3/T4 will lower the temp a good bit - my '83 has hit 15psi (weather chabge w/manual boost controller) w/no sign of detonation. Of course the cooler air temp helped here...

Rather than that, I would consider an air/water setup. The vents in the hood are not located well for replacing the jpipe.

The stock AR (T3) is .63. You might get away with .8x if you have a good exhaust header that actually runs 2 sets of 3 cylinders to the divided housing...maybe near stock boost response. Even with this proper turbo header, you'll be on up there in rpms for boost to start w/the 1.15.

This should have been asked in the Ford forum - plenty of searchable sites - Terry Oxendale for one...

I think 65 amp output

Can't guarantee this info is correct: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm Says you have a 3.54 R180. The R180 rear cover is definitely rectangular - squared corners. The R200 has rounded corners. This page should illustrate: http://www.geocities.com/madmanadam/Z-car/r200swap.html

Stock is adequate if yours is fuel injected, unless you have a BIG amp.

If it was running ok b4 taking out - YES! Tranny alone might cost you that much.

I have an '83 ZXT w/Eibach springs and Illuminas - ride is pretty nice - much less motorboating. I personally wouldn't do KYB's.

Thanks for everyones help. I hadn't been aware of the superram.com site. All said and done, cost isn't so much of a consideration as doing it right to start with. I was actually thinking of going with an iron block for the LS1, but have no idea what the intake is like compared to the LT1 or StealthRam...

Body style is personal preference. As a daily driver - how much traffic? I had a '72 351CJ Mustang, and the writeup in Hot Rod at the time said the automatics and manuals had the same time in the 1/4 mile. The torque converter plays a big part in this. I personally have an '83ZXT that has been modded w/ a T5. The '75 that I will put a turbo'd V8 in will have a 4L80E in it because I'm tired of shifing in traffic. I'll probably give the ZXT to my stepson...but not 'till I'm done with the Z!

Not so much of a concern, but the best way to guarantee a lasting solution. I ran across that site a while ago and am glad you like it. I was wondering what paints could be used over this as a top coat, assuming I were to use this as a primer/anti-rust coating while the long process of bodywork goes on...

Thanks RacerX, you answered my questions well! The PA I was referring to is Phosphoric Acid, which I assume your RustMort is and other products like OSPHO. I was most interested in the treatment of the PA'd area prior to primer obviously. The issue of the body filler and using another coat of DP over it was to seal it to prevent moisture affecting the filler. I don't know if and when time and budget considerations will allow me to be working on the car, so I have to assume I will be doing parts of it piecemeal until completely ready for the top coats, hence my worries about moisture and rust. In my situation, I am doing a ground up, with replacment floor pans, fender patching and a rear quarter panel replacement. I will also be removing the drip rails. I was considering using the DP series primer, which I assume will require a breathing system. My concern of course is rust. After doing/welding each area, I want to coat it with something to prevent rust. You have stated that you like the POR15 product, and I was considering this for the underbody, but would DP be better? Is there a non-CA product (single stage) that would work anywhere near as well as the DP from PPG that I don't have to worry about carciogens? Thank You SO MUCH for your willingness so supply us with your expertise. Brad

I prefer DynoMax UltraFlows to FlowTech. Much quieter and less resonance....

No' date=' it was EverCLEAR. [/quote'] And that's why so many suck...

Not necessarily - I was inquiring as to what intake manifold would be a better match for the requisite - mid to high end power/less torque at the low end. I'm not sue as I wouldn't use an iron block (Vortech?) I would assume from your answer you skipped stating that the Early Block/Stealth would create more low end than the LS1 w/it's intake, possibly less top end. I hate to assume anything which is why I asked your opinion of the intakes and what their strengths/weaknesses in this scenario would be. It may be that by its' design that the LT1 manifold may be better....of course, I could use the LT1 on an early, but I could get the LT1 block and not have to adapt it.... LS1 might be more $, but over the long run? Little more enlightenment from the GURU please...