Brad-ManQ45

I'd be interested to know what su you would be using in those enclosures. A normal 12" would require ~1.75 cu. ft. of volume...

If this will be a street car, don't put the full cage in - just come off the main hoop down to the front of the rocker box next to the seat. That way you don't have to worry about your noggin'...

That looks close...

I'm gonna try putting in a 300ZXT coil - someone told me that if the coil is goibg bad that this is a symptom. In my case, if I idle for w while the engine will die, cool off for 20 mins w/hood up and starts right up!

I have the MM175 (240V) and infinite voltage control...

Definitely NOT!

I have Eibachs and Illuminas on my ZXT. Was running 205/60/15's on stock rims (Michelin MXV4's), then got 16X7" w/205/55's on front and 225/50's on rear (GSC's). Noisier, but ride wasn't bad - didn't last long though. Bought F1 Steels (same sizes) and ride did get a little worse - much stiffer sidewalls. I DEFINITELY would not put 17" on either of my Z's. For drag, I'd like a 14X8 to put some DR's on the rear.... For street/autocross, 15 or 16 inches.

I would think that you would want to be able to set the pressure the WI starts at and the volume that is added, kind of like a fuel computer. You definitely don't need it at near stock boost levels, so you don't want to be draining the tank unnecessarily. I haven'tchcked into what is out there, but would ? why you feel you need it - a good aftermarket system will supply enogh fuel to prevent detonation. Now if you're heading into 20+ lbs of boost, I could see the need. The money a good setup would cost would be better spent on MSnS and possibly bigger injectors - you'll have the advantage of losing the AFM and much better throttle/boost response. Even retaining the stock injectors you will be better off until you want more than ~260 HP. I am of couse assuming that you are running the stock computer here from looking at your previous posts. This is JMHO. You can buy the MS prebuilt for $200. With the results mobythevan has had, I see no reason to do WI until all the fuel issues are resolved due to the limitaions of the stock setup. In the book Turbocharging by Hugh MacInnes, there are definite pros to WI, but the ability to tune the fuel was just as important. That along with the fact that if you are relying on the WI to prevent detonation and you happen to run out at the wrong time, you may fry the engine. I would rather look at WI as a way of keeping the combustion chambers clean...

If you keep the stock tires on it I see no problem....

On behalf of everyone following your lead w/MSnS and UMS - THANKS!

Doing a search would find things like" http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28464

One word - search.

Congratulations! I am assuming this wasn't a surprise. If it was - you DO know what causes this - right? Mines' out of college now - if my wife gave me this news I'd probably croak, and if I didn't I'd probably drink myself to death.

Stick w/2/5" - possibly 3" where the bends are.

Bad news again! Well, it comes in threes - you should be safe for a while - right?

I'd check Grumpyvette's posts about matchin cam to compression...

The dump valve and its' fittings. But hey - for $10 what do you expect?

This tells you how to put the Auto from a Starion ESIR / Conquest TSI / 300 ZX Turbo into the ZX, should be near same for Z: http://www.zcar.com/articles/twheel/4spdauto/

Others more knowledgable will chime in I'm, sure, but given your directions, I would only get rid of the red coats. The gray may be primer/sealer over the brownish etching primer. I would question why not taking it down to bare metal and re-priming - once the top coat is gone the primer/sealer and etching primer alone will not protect from rust....

Good news! Can't wait 'til you get it dialed in - I will probably wait for UMS, but your settings should be of geat assistance, assuming that you will share this knowledge also....

Lookin' GOOOD!

That's it w/o the details for the Camaro slave cylinder modification in the ?JTR manual. 1/8" NPT, thgen use3/16" (-3) hose 24" long, 1/8" NPT to -3 hose adapter, 1/8" pipe coupler and a 1/8" pipe nipple 1&1/2" long... The rest of the instructions weredisassembling and hacking the plastic housing to about 1/8" taller than the bleed screw boss........

I installed the HF air compressor auto-drain kit and had a hell of a time working with it, only to have the nylon 250PSI tubing keep popping off of the cheap t-fitting they include in the kit. Not only that, but the tubing actually started melting. I went to the local hydraulics shop and got the 250 psi nylon air hose for truck brakes, which is reinforced w/fiberglass, and this hose is MUCH easier to work with - the wall of the tubing is thinner. I also got a decent T-fitting to replace the HF junk one that had a total of 4 pieces - the T itself and the three nuts. The new one has 7 pieces (3 ferrules), and works like all the other plumbing fittings I have worked with in the past. The existing hose on the compressor for the pressure valve is about as thick-walled as the HF tubing was, but with a little perseverence, a small open-end wrench and some gooseneck pliers, I was finally able to get the hose on the integral tube support and the ferrule down far enough to start the nut. Once the original line was connected to the tee at both ends, the new tubing worked great - no problem at all on the new fitting and hand tighten onto the integtrated tube stiffener and clamp down with the nut on the fitting down at the auto-drain valve which I did not change. I used the compressor today 5 times more than what had caused the previous tube to part ways with the old fitting and start melting with no problems. To anyone out there that has troubles - try just the tubing first - that was 90% of all of my frustration in the original install. I don't regret getting the better T-Fitting, but it probably wasn't necessary - I just did not want to make two trips - besides, I feel a lot more comfortable with a ferrule in there.

'96 Town Car '94 Q45a '83 ZXT Running - needs paint '75 About to go on rotisserie The prior thread was running cylinders - included mowers and other internal combustion engines besides cars... What I've had: 1960 Olds Dynamic 88 1970 VW Bug 1972 Mustang 351CJ 1972 Capri 2600 1975 Town Car 1978 LTD 1985 Conquest 1987 Galant 1987 Starion ESIR

Actually, for a 7" rim with 0 offset ypu would have 4" backspace. You have to add ~1" to the advertised rim width to get the total width... I/m not good w/fractions, so forgive me for the ~/.13" difference.