Brad-ManQ45

IO'm going to twin turbo mine...I don't want or need the first gear in the 4L60E/700R4...

I DID mean 4L85E - the newest equivalent to a Turbo 400 w/OD. 2.48 first gear instead of 3.36 or something around there... Increased torque capacity and more efficient than the 4L80E...

Halfway there - congrats!

I knew you were on top of it , but I just wanted anyone else looking to make their own mounts be aware of the engineering that went into the JTR Z system that somehow needs to be duplicated for the ZX. You had the thickness angle covered by what you stated - it was the moving of the drivers side attachment to the chevy mount that wasn't covered. Someone really SHOULD start to make the mounts for this other than MSA - I REALLY don't like the idea of using the Datsun engine mounts... Thanks for clearing it up for everyone down the line. By the way, I think the post title should be renamed Fabricating 280ZX mounts for future searches...are you with me FL83280ZX?

I want the 4L85E! I like the 1st gear ratio a lot better on the light car...

I hope Grumpyvette will chime in here, but I believe that most racers would rather use the two bolt block and put splayed caps on it. Barring that, they'd rather just have the 2 bolt instead of the 4 bolt. Something about the webbing being stronger that the splayed caps don't compromise I think....? I can't remember where I picked this up, I've always been a 351C/429/460 Ford Fan myself. I will have to say this one rides the fence on which forum - someone interested in a 400 block would surely like to hear about it, but it is indeed relatively rare nowadays to find one. If it hasn't been OB'd it would be a find - 4 bolts or not! I say give him the benefit of the doubt Flash...

I have both JTR manuals and no, the EFI does not pertain to the Z at all. I personally would not get the manual knowing this. It does point out hoses and ducting and pointers on transmissions and the speedo, but you can get that anywhere and peruse cars at the junkyard for ducting. JTR will work w/LT1. John's Cars has a kit for the LS1. Others have fabricated their own mounts for the LS1: http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/index.html

Anyone had any experience w/P.A.W. short block/engine kits? Considering buiding it myself (done several before, ford, capri, chevy). How is their machining. Assuming I can get it exactly the way I want it, is this a viable method of obtaining good machined blocks?

As a purely academic question spdsk8tr (and lease don't take my questioning the wrong way), did you make any provision for offsetting the engine to the passenger side? My reason for asking is that w/the JTR mounts, the drivers' side provides for an offset of ~3/4" to the passenger side of the car. Viewing the JTR manual, the chevy mount on the driver's side is move 1" toward the bottom of the mount as compared to the datsun mount holes. Due to the angle that the plate is at when bolted to the Chevy Engine, I can see that this would move the engine over a certain amount and maintain it level side to side (or am I just assuming this also?) Both Z & ZX use the same motor mounts, and by looking at the MSA system, they use the stock datsun mounts and leave the Chevy mount off - simple spacers. I personally don't think that the datsun mounts were designed for the HP and (esp) torque of the SB, so I definitely think that spacers utilizing the chevy mount is the way to go, however - the offset ? bothers me. JTR all said and done has a total of 1 9/16" (1.831") for spacer & setback plate thickness w/no offset on the pass. side. The driver's side has a total thickness of 2 9/16" (2.831") with the aforementioned 3/4" offset to the passenger side. The amount the engine is moved down on the drivers side in relation to the motor mount position seems to 'even out' the difference in spacer height, therefor the engine is level side to side. Assuming your memory of your measurements is accurate (driver's side so close that it doesn't bear mentioning and passenger withing 1/4" between both systems discussed), then there appears to be a distance gap involved (heightwise and between where the chevy mounting bolts line up in relation to the engine mount towers. With straight spacers the specified (and seemingly correct height) and no offset on the driver's side, it would seem that the engine would be centered in the car, and likely the engine would not be level 'side to side'. I am simply trying to visualise how just spacers would work without that offset on the driver's side... Inquiring minds want to know! I personally wil keep my '83 ZXT turbo'd - the '75 is for a V8 - but I'm gonna do my own crossmember for wicherver engine I choose and not go JTR (if not LS1) because I want as much room in the engine compartment as possible for accessories and turbos. Beside - it will look cleaner! Once again, I personally do not think much of the MSA kit for the ZX (haven't seen for the Z) because a V* should be using motor mounts designed for IT - not another engine. There is too much engineering that the car companies go through for NVH to toally discount so flagrantly, not to mention sheer stoutness-wise in this case.

I heard that if you have that scoop, you have to have the chicken that goes with it...

For the ZX, you sould only have to make the mount like the spacers JTR uses with the additional width of the setback plate.

For the engine, you only need the spacers made that are th width of the spacers in the JTR manual + the width of the setback plates. Not sure about tranny mount....

Forget TBI - now look at 1 or 2 posts on this same subject within the past 2 days...

You should be able to hear it running after you shut off the engine...

To my knowledge both MSA and VB carry the urethane type (made by XENON). They only make two models - one with brake ducts, one without. Yes, I reinforced mine w/aluminum to prevent distortion at speed. I got mine from JC Whitney back in '93 for ~$120....

Hey Georgia Flash 75V8 - I'm not that far away from you. There is another member in Smyrna that is about to put a turbo L6 in his 240 that I met in Dec. - 240hybrid, here's his website: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/449966 He rewired his with a whole 280ZX harness... I pretty much like to do things myself, but am always willing to help someone else...

Well if you're gonna get picky and include cars that weren't sold in the U.S.... :malebitchslap:

I personally don't believe in the need for a turbo timer, as long as the center section is water-cooled. When my ZXT needed a new center, I got a water cooled one, and at the same time had an S3 trim compressor put on it and the turbine clipped. A simple h-pipe and some hose and I was in business again...

Excellent news! My congratulations.

I'd like to chime in here and say that one of the reasons you said you wanted the T5 instead of T56 was 1st gear ratio. A couple of later posts stated T56= 2.66 and T5(yours)=2.95. Isn't that a step in the wrong direction? Can they tighten the ratios for the gears up, say startbw/2.33 and modify 2-4?

Do the Z31 seats have the lumbar plate or an air bladder. I had an '85 Conquest and got rear-ended and the plate type of lubar support did a number on my lower back. I personally will NEVER have a seat with this type of lumbar support again...

JSK makes their OWN hub for the wilwood brakes. I am assuming with the stock dimensions for offset. The 300ZX hubs move the face the wheels bolt onto out ~30mm IIRC... Personally, I would like a replacement 5 lug hub with the stock dimensions, as I'm not sure there is enough meat on the stock hubs to redrill for 5 lug. RossC, would you care to comment here?

Yes, the ones that come straight down can properly be referred to as Aid Dams. The ones that slant forward are a derivative of a spoiler. The spoiler type will direct more air into the engine bay through the radiator openeing than the air dam. For top speed purposes the air dam is what you want. For everyday use and not speeding, I prefer the urethane spoiler type assenbly that replaces the valence parts.

If you're talking straight coil, I've had good luck with the Jacob's coil...

My brother and I did a ground-up on a '66 1600 roadster (short windshield) and when we rebuilt the engine used the crank and pistons from a 2000, put in a 5 speed tranny and 4:11 rear gear. 2 months after he had it on the road, some bimbo in a Nova rear-ended him and totalled the car and screwed his back up... The thing would GET IT! Another friend has a 4-door 510 - (the ONLY one to get IMHO) and is putting a 240SX engine in it and will turbo it. Love both types of cars.