Brad-ManQ45

looks like they could be grilles from a BMW ar Jag...

It's easy to make assumptions when you are not given full info. Your original post aid you couldn't "here" a difference on the first 3 cylinders when you disconnected the spark plug wire from them, so I assummed you were saying the other three DID have a difference. You appear to have a wiring problem - your inability to be able to put the original system back in would indicate that, which is why I mentioned connectors before.

MobyTheVan has converted and has many posts under the Turbo/Supercharger forum....

You didn't say what happened when you take the plug wires off the back 3 cylinders... If only indivilual cylinders are affected then you have a plug wire problem, or a problem in your distributor cap, period. Thisis safe to say, because the coil is supplying ALL the cylinders the same, the only possible differences that would account for some cylinders not getting spark is something wrong in the dist cap or the wires. Have you put the spark plug wires to ground to see if there is spark from each of the wires? Have you checked the wires resistance with a V/O meter? You want to make sure all the electrical connections to the coil are good and tight, with clean wires. I am assuming the ring connectors are still on the ends of the wires - right?

Phil - I will admit that I knew we were very low but didn't remember we were last...I was thinking 48th or 49th, after all we DO have Arkansas as a state... (Thats the sate that produced Bill - right) I will take a bit of exception to your take on Lester Maddox though. Having known the man personally, he did have strong views, but as governor brought more changes and influenced more policies in the civil rights arena than a lot of people give him credit for. He was very big on individual rights and race was no part of that, and made sure that the state government saw the distinction. He treated fairly/caused to be treated fairly and hired more minorities during his administration in GA than previous administrations. Lester was a shrewd man - and being a politician, he did what he needed to do to get into office and brought his own sense of individual rights (applied fairly) to make some serious changes. All anybody wants to remember is the axe-handle though....NOT the way I choose to remember this gentleman.

I guess they're really pulling out all the stops in order to raise the bar from the lowest 20% in the nation....

I'm with you Danno! I don't want the JTR stuff interfering with access/room to/around the engine either. Whether I do early/LT1 or LS1 as a basis, a new Xmember will be made... Look forward to seeing how yous works out. I'm in the process of building my rotisserie now...

How much for the rad?

Wider tires on the rear would make it more of an understeerer. I have an '83 ZXT T3/T4 3" exhaust, and I run 205/55/16 and 225/50/16 tires on it with biger bars, eibach and illuminas. I like the way it rides and handles - certainly capable of more than I would use on the street! If you are going to autocross or race, fine, but for a daily driver, I wouldn't go that big and expensive. On my V* Z ('75), I'm gonna go max around 235 width...

I believe the 300ZXTT is 4.11...

Unless you can really seal the back of the headlight bucket, don't. I have them on mine and dirt gets up in there. Of course I haven't tried sealing the headlight bucke yet. The ones I have seal pretty well around the edges of the bucket itself, it's just the stuff from behind the headlight that gets kicked up that collects...

Read this: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30175

Hi guys! Just a note on the AFM to Turbo pipe... You can remove the spring in the stock pip and cut it back some, then cut the boot itself and use it (after putting the spring back in. OK - ask me how I know... The shop that did the coonversion did this same thing, but cut the spring too far back, so that under high boost, the boot actually collapsed and split - this was after ~30K miles. The car would not idle for shxt, but ran ok above idle. I went looking for a vacuum leak and found it on the bottom of the boot next to the comprressor housing. I went and got another boot from the JY and did it the right way - no more problems. What makes this possible is that the inlet to the compressor is moved a little forward compared to stock (not much), and the bigger inlet will just match the trimmed boot. You don't have to replace the boot with another pipe and give up the other connections....

Tyurbonetics will know - tell them what you use the car for and what mods you will be making. The stock jpipe will work..

I got a T3/T4 hybrid (water cooled long w/ a installation kit for water cooling) from Turbonetics - the turbine was clipped and had an S-3 compressor trim. Works well. I used my stock turbine housing. Hits lower and stronger... Small modification to make the WG actuator work and a little time to cut down t he AFM to turbo boot and clock the turbo....

OK - Got it now. Couple more questions... When painting under the car, ie: wheelwells, should I be using a flex agent/additive? What single stage [aints would you recommend, and is it ok to put clear over these? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I found this site: http://www.itkillsrust.com/ What do you think?

Yep - it wasn't 'til the 300's that the bolt sizes changed. You may need to change the pinion flange.

255/60/15=27.1" diameter=too tall... stock~24.6" Want to stay near stock diameter. JTR says 235/60/15's will work=26.1" 245/50/16=25.1" 225/50/16 =24.9" 245/45/16=24.6" You sau you have 15" wheels - if they are 6", go 215/60/15=25.2" Lots of good ones to choose from in this size. If you have wheels wider than 6", say 7", you could run 225/60/15 =25.6".. I NEVER use the narrowest rim for a tire size in the manufacturers specs because handling is compromised. I stick to the middle, or preferably outer (largest width wheel). If this is a drag car only - no prob, if you like going around curves - do yourself a favor. JMHO of course....

I thougt the purpose of the BOV was to route air from in front of the thottle plate to ahead of the compressor (like recirculating air) to avoid turbo slowdown. If this is indeed the case, you would never want to use the POV location for BOV purposes. Bypassing the throttle plate and dumping air in that location would lean out the mixture. Granted you're not on boost, but wtf - why do it?

I have one of those reflector plates between my taillights and the red had faded out - darn it. Guess I'll have to buy a new one...

OK...Rubberized undercoating... Cost is not a factor here - I intend to do this right and avoid all hassles in the future. An engine or rear-end is nothing to redo, but this body sheisse should only have to be done once and forgotten. I'll mechanically play with this 'till I die, but don't want to deal with rust again. I'm not complaining mind you. I bought this car to do exactly this. I only want to do it once is all... I will profess my ignorance on its ability to prevent rust on bare metal, and am assuming that it's other qualitites are flexibility and soundproofing. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume that you would recommend applying this over ZeroRust? Which product? 3M? I personally have used their polishing/buffing compounds and liked them, and the Roloc system you have already recommended - is there a better rubberized undercoating product? Now as to the interior of the car, I have seen many posts about rollon vinyl products available at Home Depot and other places. Would this be the thing to do (over ZeroRust) or would the rubberized undercoating be better, or perhaps I'm way off base and you would recommend something else? Thanks Again for imparting your wisdom!

RacerX: Would you say that the zerorust would be better than POR15 for the underbody? My reason for asking is that it's my understanding that POR15 is a little flexible, which may be an advantage in the world of stones and other nasties on the road....

No LSD...

I can't see how... My bets the guides.