Brad-ManQ45

After college I sold and installed home and car stereo, working my up through the chain of stores to General Manager. I have NEVER been impressed with BOSE - starting with the (in)famous 901 - 9 6" drivers that were supposed to cover the full range of sound? My ZXT has a Sony CD preamp, Hafler 100w/ch amp driving ADS speakers in custom enclosures on the front door, and RF Punch 45 driving 6.5" Pioneer co-axes in the stock location and an RF Punch 100 driving a Kicker Competion 12" in a 1.75 cu. ft. box. More than loud enough for me on the expressway with the t-tops off and accurate. My wife drives the Q45 (w/BOSE) and I just keep it loud enough for background music, because anything she has to say is FAR more important than anything I could be listening to... I have left the Town car stock with the CD system that comes in the signature series as an upgrade. I have NO IDEA what I'll wind up with in the '75 once it is on the road...

Can't see it...

Biggest reason I can think of is that with it before the turbo, the turbo will slow down too much when you close the throttle. With a CBPV (Compressor ByPass Valve) and the TB after the turbo, the air stacked up after a run and closiing the throttle gets re-routed to in front of the turbo, keeping it spinning. You would lose that and the turbo would slow much more. Plus, I would suspect that throttle response would not be as crisp on initial tip-in.

This is interesting...

Nothing a grinder and a little bodywork couldn't cure...

If you have the caveat "normally aspirated" as part of your statement, I will have to agree that that would be one peaky engine on the street, and you probably have to use the ~4:11 rear gear - rigt. Plenty of turbo motors out the w/350+ in them reliable as hell, once you get rid of the stock FI computer...

European Springs?

On my '83 ZXT, if I idle for 10 minutes, the car will shut off, and I have to wait 20-30 mins to sart up again. Some people say this may be the coil. Your intercooler probably doesn't have anything to do with the fact that this is happening. I am going to replace my coil and see if this solves the problem....

The switch you are referring to was for manual AC systems. I am willing to bet that you have a vacuum leak - the #1 cause of incorrect airflow in both manual and Auto systems. Of course with the auto system you have a lot more hoses...I ought to konw, I just converted form auto to manual when I did the digital to analog and swapped wiring harnesses - not much bucks to make the change and the dash was off, so avoided probs. This even though I have less than 30K on a new contol unit for the auto. I would first check in the engine compartment at the hoses on the vacuum tank. 30 years of high heat/oxidation had mine in poor shape and one fell right off. If you have the dash out you can check the vacuum at each of the servos controlling air flow to determine if any of these are a problem - even without the dash out - just the lower dash you can do this. You can also bypass the control and take vacuum straight to the servos to make sure they work. If you connect the straight vacuum line to a servo and it doesn't move what it is supposed to, you have a problem. Let us know what you find out...

Megasquirt...

Have you cheked the cyl head temp sensor and wiring?

Compression and cam don't require new injectors, and probably no change to AFM. Your octane requirement has changed though - you need more.

Thanks guys. That Millenium yellow is just too hard for me - I want one of the brighter/paler yellows like an early/mid 70's vette or the Ferrari Dino. Anything with too much orange/red is too hard for my tastes. Actually, if you go to the following link you'll see the Sunspot Yellow that so far has come closest. http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1974-pontiac-pg02.jpg This has some of the PPG color charts online - supposedly getting Euro car charts all the way back to the 40's/50's eventually - then I'll be able to find the Ferrari color....

I'll bet he doesn't have to write another word - just edit all the posts he's been a part of - can you say thick reading????

Strotter - yours looks pretty close - you happen to know what year(s) that color was used? Can you send me some pics? t-tom - I have been looking at this one too. I'll have to look for some VW's I guess... Afshin - I've seen the chips for Sunflower Yellow and they don't come close to the pictures I've seen. '78 'vettes had a Bright Yellow that looks close. Thanks everyone.

I had turned away and was talking w/friend and just turned back in time for some "titillation". I think I was the only one there to see it - no-one beleved me when I turned my head and said "WHOOAH". Even with this the halftime show sucked after the first singer and then the shot of Jessica... It's getting bad when the commercials are better than the show....

I have seen the following pics/sets of pics of a yellow I would like for my '75 when I finally get around to painting, but can't find it anywhere: "Fly Yellow" http://www.directcon.net/wander/AnsDino.html Unknown and having a hard time tracking it down: http://www.geocities.com/mr_fireman_sam/jackz/index.html "Sunflower Yellow" was a '72 Vette color...but seeing pictures of cars and looking at the paint chips aren't close... What I am looking for is something that is not as hard a yellow - very bright/light - almost electric when in the sun. Even a slight hint of green would work as opposed to the "Chrome Yellow" that some Mustangs had and the yellow in later Corvettes. "Saturn Yellow" was a color of the old VW Beetle that I remember was pretty vivid... Can anyone help in finding how to get these colors? Links to pics? Thanks, Brad

looks like they could be grilles from a BMW ar Jag...

It's easy to make assumptions when you are not given full info. Your original post aid you couldn't "here" a difference on the first 3 cylinders when you disconnected the spark plug wire from them, so I assummed you were saying the other three DID have a difference. You appear to have a wiring problem - your inability to be able to put the original system back in would indicate that, which is why I mentioned connectors before.

MobyTheVan has converted and has many posts under the Turbo/Supercharger forum....

You didn't say what happened when you take the plug wires off the back 3 cylinders... If only indivilual cylinders are affected then you have a plug wire problem, or a problem in your distributor cap, period. Thisis safe to say, because the coil is supplying ALL the cylinders the same, the only possible differences that would account for some cylinders not getting spark is something wrong in the dist cap or the wires. Have you put the spark plug wires to ground to see if there is spark from each of the wires? Have you checked the wires resistance with a V/O meter? You want to make sure all the electrical connections to the coil are good and tight, with clean wires. I am assuming the ring connectors are still on the ends of the wires - right?

Phil - I will admit that I knew we were very low but didn't remember we were last...I was thinking 48th or 49th, after all we DO have Arkansas as a state... (Thats the sate that produced Bill - right) I will take a bit of exception to your take on Lester Maddox though. Having known the man personally, he did have strong views, but as governor brought more changes and influenced more policies in the civil rights arena than a lot of people give him credit for. He was very big on individual rights and race was no part of that, and made sure that the state government saw the distinction. He treated fairly/caused to be treated fairly and hired more minorities during his administration in GA than previous administrations. Lester was a shrewd man - and being a politician, he did what he needed to do to get into office and brought his own sense of individual rights (applied fairly) to make some serious changes. All anybody wants to remember is the axe-handle though....NOT the way I choose to remember this gentleman.

I guess they're really pulling out all the stops in order to raise the bar from the lowest 20% in the nation....

I'm with you Danno! I don't want the JTR stuff interfering with access/room to/around the engine either. Whether I do early/LT1 or LS1 as a basis, a new Xmember will be made... Look forward to seeing how yous works out. I'm in the process of building my rotisserie now...

How much for the rad?