Brad-ManQ45

closed chamber=better quench=less tendancy to detonate. I'd either mill the tops of pistons or get another set (JMHO).

Anyone got the part $ for the "small" Bosch? Didn't Bosch make the Turbo fuel pumps? Brad

'88's and '89's also had 16X8 on front and 16X9 on back as an option.

Sure you've got the right injectors? If you were running the SVO injectors I would expect you to be this rich all the time...

T3 automotive is the Infiniti specialist shop in the Atlanta area. They recommend the B&M Cooler pre-radiator, that way the cooler in the radiator has a chance to warm the T/O up before returning to the transmission. The way it is designed it doesn't cool as much when cooler temps are present. No moving parts. For the Atlanta area, they completely bypass the radiator T/O cooler entirely - it just doesn't get that cold that often here. They claim the T/O coolers add 1/2 to 3/4 more mileage to the tranny when associated with fluid replacement every 50K.

Good on Rob! I for one was a bit disappointed at your discovery, and am very glad Rob appears to be addressing the issues. Assuming he makes good on his product, I anticipate purchasing one also. I too, appreciate your acting as point-man in this endeavor....

I may be wrong BUT... I can't help but feel the reason for some pipes being longer in the first place is packaging consideration in the engine nacelle. If all pipes are the same length, then the pulses will arrive at the collector in the same order and spacing that they occurred. The difference in pipe lengths on the stated aircraft engine can conceiveably be tuned so that at one engine speed (cruise - where it spends th most time)the pulses arrive in the appropriate order and spacing. Be aware that spoolup is not an issue in aircraft applications. If you have a twin turbo setup, yes, you would want to have the two collectors get their pulses evenly, but on a single turbo with equal length primaries (not split turbine housing), they can't HELP but arrive in the proper order and spacing.

Okay guys - I've changed it to full size. I'll have to start reading about this web site stuff... Thanks for your patience w/me. Can anyone recommend a good package/packages for image editing and web site development. I'm not really into it, and don't want to put a great deal of effort into it. My only purpose for even putting up this site quickly was to share the knowledge... That said, I've just bought a digital camera and will taking pics of my project to aid in puttingit back together and hopefully be able to show off some of my work. I can assure you I am much better w/my hands than with websites...

I have an '83 ZXT with a decent system in it. Hafler Amp driving ADS speakers up front in custom enclosures in the doors. Simple Pioneer Coax's in the stock rear locations powered by a R/F Punch 45. These are only used for "fill" and are not played loud. Competition 12" Sub in 1.75 Cu. Ft. Box powered by bridged R/F Punch 100. Audio Control Equalizer/crossover working off the front channels. No, I don't go booming down the street, but it plays plenty loud and sweet in the car. Had top of the line Sony stuff - head unit and cd which both crapped out after 7 years and ~30K. Pioneer, here I come.

Right Click and Save Picture As xxxx. I didn't want to waste bandwidth for displaying the article. You can save it and then open it on your machine. If ya'll want I can increase the size so all you have to do is read...But the non-broadband people might take a while to load...

I have posted these on my website. Thanks Katman ITS Z-Car Roll Cage Article from Z-Car Magazine Don't expect anything fancy...Too many projects and not enough time. As soon as I have some pics of my car and stuff I'll post 'em on a more elaborate site. I kept them small for bandwidth reasons (I think), I can make them bigger, but if you right click and "Save Picture As" you will have it for posterity for viewing on your posteriors anytime from your own machine!. If I get enough calls for it I can display them large, but it takes longer to get to the page, and if people are just gonna copy them anyway, who cares? This is my first attempt, so be gentle...

I have posted these on my website. ITS Z-car Roll Cage Article from Z-Car Magazine Don't expect anything fancy...

I live in Marietta also, and am in the process of disassembling my ’75 in anticipation of putting in new floor pans and doing bodywork. I am 48 and feeling the need for some fun other than my ’83 turbo, so am going to stuff in a small block. I would like to have a rollcage and have researched all your posts, but have not been able to find anyone who has posted the article on an ITS rollcage, even though I know someone has offered. I would be willing to post this on a site that AT&T says I have coming as part of my broadband internet connection fees. I personally can’t wait to get started on this project, and wouldn’t mind chatting with you sometime. I’m sure you stay busy, so I won’t hold my breath. If you could recommend someone who can aid/design/install a good street-type cage – not pure ITS as I want passenger capability, I would certainly appreciate it. I don’t mind spending money, but I do mind wasting it. I tried using the email address here on HybridZ but it got returned -connection refused (after 83 hours). Thanks for your help Brad

lookin' good...

Six of one - half a dozen of the other

I boought the Husky frm Home-Depot - 7HP peak - 60 Gal. 240 volts. I just ran a circuit from my breaker box to it - no big deal. I have it in my basement, and have used PVC piping to both garage (upstairs) and workshop (basement). All piping flows downhill to the compressor. It was (relatively) easy to do with the manufactured trusses my floor supports are made of. I got lucky with the HVAC ducting not presenting a big problem. I put in a 30 amp circuit and have two outlets on it wired in parallel - one for the compressor in the basement and an outlet in the garage for my Millermatic 175 mig welder. I won't be welding and running the air compressor at the same time. The county electrical inspector just passed me. I could have done it without getting an electrical permit and having the inspection, but for legal and insurance reasons decided do spend the $30 bucks for the permit and verified w/an inspector what I wanted to do before buying anything. I also ran a 15 amp 120V circuit for the garage and another outlet in the furnace room. Pretty soon I'm not going to have any excuses for not working in the garage on my project!! If at all possible I would recommend getting a 240 Volt unit (vertical tank). BTW - the Husky is made by Campbell-Hausfeld and I could tell no difference (other than color) between them. Husky is about 20-30 bucks less, but every once in a while Home Depot has the no interest for one year deal on purchases over xxx $'s and that's when I bought mine. I have a Craftsman/Coleman/Porter Cable (they're all SOOHADOTO) oil-less unit that I intend to use only to supply extra air when painting to a hood/suit that I will fabricate (want to make sure I have enough volume). This thing is LOUD - don't get one. Whatever you get - 120 or 240 get a pump that uses oil - you'll be glad you did - quiet and longevity at a slightly higher price. JMHO

No answer for you, but I'd consider checking a Mustang or Chevy site - they have T5's too - and a lot more people tricking their machines...

I'm a BIG fan of tall sidewalls for the rear on high HP cars. I'm 48 and prefer to have springs and bars appropriate for good handling, but would only go 16" rims on the front, and as small as would clear rear disks on the back. Much better ride and much easier to control when autocrossing. When launching, the tall 'walls help a lot. Been running 16's on my 280 ZXT and ride is nothing to brag about and doesn't 'hook as well as the 15's I had before on launch. Feels like it's on rails w/the F1 steels, but would tradea little for ride comfort (makes my cd changer skip too much as compared to the GSC's I had on before, but wore out WAY too soon). I agree w/lower rear spring rate a bit, but would get a bigger rear bar to provide same total effective spring rate in cornering. Just my .02.... Love your videos, and eventually my '75 conversion may hope to match. (I agree with you that I don't want flares in any way shape or form) Brad

I have an '83 Turbo and it came w/a 3.54

Hmmm...Penisport wheels - I think I'll let someone else take a whack at 'em...

The Buick V-6 was based on the 215 Aluminum engine. I wouldn't be suprized if the mounts for both are the same. - get pics from Scottie-GNZ or go to his site and see if he has some pics of the mounts. For that matter, there might be others in the non-L6 board that my have pics.....

I believe Moon is the original manufacturer of a 4x2 Weber manifold for the SBC. If i remember correctly, it was for sidedrafts and was kind of like a cross-ram. Rather than Webers - how about TWN Throttle-Bodies? This should be sweet. If I recall Tull systems did a '55 or '57 Chevy with this setup....

When I got my T3/T4 hybrid I did not even consider non-water-cooled.

I wonder if the knock sensor will work w/the P90A head? It sure is a lot quieter...

It is my understanding that when GM wen tto the PCM that it was software programmable - not reliant on hardware anymore. OBDII may have some limitaiton built in that the first two years of the PCM did not.... How close am I on this guys?