Brad-ManQ45

How much for the rad?

Wider tires on the rear would make it more of an understeerer. I have an '83 ZXT T3/T4 3" exhaust, and I run 205/55/16 and 225/50/16 tires on it with biger bars, eibach and illuminas. I like the way it rides and handles - certainly capable of more than I would use on the street! If you are going to autocross or race, fine, but for a daily driver, I wouldn't go that big and expensive. On my V* Z ('75), I'm gonna go max around 235 width...

I believe the 300ZXTT is 4.11...

Unless you can really seal the back of the headlight bucket, don't. I have them on mine and dirt gets up in there. Of course I haven't tried sealing the headlight bucke yet. The ones I have seal pretty well around the edges of the bucket itself, it's just the stuff from behind the headlight that gets kicked up that collects...

Read this: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30175

Hi guys! Just a note on the AFM to Turbo pipe... You can remove the spring in the stock pip and cut it back some, then cut the boot itself and use it (after putting the spring back in. OK - ask me how I know... The shop that did the coonversion did this same thing, but cut the spring too far back, so that under high boost, the boot actually collapsed and split - this was after ~30K miles. The car would not idle for shxt, but ran ok above idle. I went looking for a vacuum leak and found it on the bottom of the boot next to the comprressor housing. I went and got another boot from the JY and did it the right way - no more problems. What makes this possible is that the inlet to the compressor is moved a little forward compared to stock (not much), and the bigger inlet will just match the trimmed boot. You don't have to replace the boot with another pipe and give up the other connections....

Tyurbonetics will know - tell them what you use the car for and what mods you will be making. The stock jpipe will work..

I got a T3/T4 hybrid (water cooled long w/ a installation kit for water cooling) from Turbonetics - the turbine was clipped and had an S-3 compressor trim. Works well. I used my stock turbine housing. Hits lower and stronger... Small modification to make the WG actuator work and a little time to cut down t he AFM to turbo boot and clock the turbo....

OK - Got it now. Couple more questions... When painting under the car, ie: wheelwells, should I be using a flex agent/additive? What single stage [aints would you recommend, and is it ok to put clear over these? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I found this site: http://www.itkillsrust.com/ What do you think?

Yep - it wasn't 'til the 300's that the bolt sizes changed. You may need to change the pinion flange.

255/60/15=27.1" diameter=too tall... stock~24.6" Want to stay near stock diameter. JTR says 235/60/15's will work=26.1" 245/50/16=25.1" 225/50/16 =24.9" 245/45/16=24.6" You sau you have 15" wheels - if they are 6", go 215/60/15=25.2" Lots of good ones to choose from in this size. If you have wheels wider than 6", say 7", you could run 225/60/15 =25.6".. I NEVER use the narrowest rim for a tire size in the manufacturers specs because handling is compromised. I stick to the middle, or preferably outer (largest width wheel). If this is a drag car only - no prob, if you like going around curves - do yourself a favor. JMHO of course....

I thougt the purpose of the BOV was to route air from in front of the thottle plate to ahead of the compressor (like recirculating air) to avoid turbo slowdown. If this is indeed the case, you would never want to use the POV location for BOV purposes. Bypassing the throttle plate and dumping air in that location would lean out the mixture. Granted you're not on boost, but wtf - why do it?

I have one of those reflector plates between my taillights and the red had faded out - darn it. Guess I'll have to buy a new one...

OK...Rubberized undercoating... Cost is not a factor here - I intend to do this right and avoid all hassles in the future. An engine or rear-end is nothing to redo, but this body sheisse should only have to be done once and forgotten. I'll mechanically play with this 'till I die, but don't want to deal with rust again. I'm not complaining mind you. I bought this car to do exactly this. I only want to do it once is all... I will profess my ignorance on its ability to prevent rust on bare metal, and am assuming that it's other qualitites are flexibility and soundproofing. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume that you would recommend applying this over ZeroRust? Which product? 3M? I personally have used their polishing/buffing compounds and liked them, and the Roloc system you have already recommended - is there a better rubberized undercoating product? Now as to the interior of the car, I have seen many posts about rollon vinyl products available at Home Depot and other places. Would this be the thing to do (over ZeroRust) or would the rubberized undercoating be better, or perhaps I'm way off base and you would recommend something else? Thanks Again for imparting your wisdom!

RacerX: Would you say that the zerorust would be better than POR15 for the underbody? My reason for asking is that it's my understanding that POR15 is a little flexible, which may be an advantage in the world of stones and other nasties on the road....

No LSD...

I can't see how... My bets the guides.

Got it now - thanks!

Talk to Roger: http://www.zbarn.com

RPM's don't keep a turbo spooled really. To get boost, you have to have load , ie: be accelerating. Depending upon your turbo setup, the time from flooring it to boost is probably near to same at 3000 as it is at 5000, because the turbo is just goin' wit' the flo' unless the engine is under load, when it starts spooling. The reason I say nearly is there will be some small variation, but at higher rpm cruising, the turbo may be spinning faster in cruise, but it has to speed up more to produce the same amount of boost as it would at lower rpms - pretty much a wash. I stated previously that I wanted a real long rod 302 and turbo it. I still say this because I want something quiet and tame to drive daily, but when I stand on it I want to GO! I don't WANT a lot of off-idle torque that ci's give you...so stick with your plan...

When you lower the crossmember, it is in relation to the body/frame. It would seem that this would raise the body, as the suspension attaches to the crossmember. It may be that the body will settle down to the same ride height, after all, the mountings for the struts stay the same... But I can't help but feel that in this scenario yiu will have lost some suspension travel in rebound...by the thickness of the spacer. Of course this would mean more travel available in jounce. Is my take on this correct?

Ross: You may want to explain the differences between the ZXT CV's and the 300ZX's pro and con. You might want to mention pricing, as I don't see anything about them on your website...

I do now. I have one Linux and 2 MS boxes and have programmed since before windows. DOS rules.... in the MS world anyway....

In any situation, the person backing up has the greatest responsibility in the eyes of the law, as your view is never as good as driving and turning. Some states actually have a law saying you are not to back out onto a street. People backing up into a street do not have the right of way, it is their resposibility in backing up to not hit anything or anyone.