KyleG

Ive been going through the EFI Bible trying to trouble shoot my '75 280z's engine troubles. Ive run in to an issue checking the AFM. The bible says there should be continuity (small resistance) between pins 7&8. I interpret this as <10 ohms, but read ~450 ohms when doing this check. The AFM performs fine in all the other tests, including the ones in the FSM. Has anyone done this check? What sort of resistance do you read between 7&8? Id be grateful for any responses!

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50138-chris-rummels-easy-follow-rb-into-z-wireing-guide/ Take a look around the site, especially the RB forum ( http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/31-nissan-rb-forum/ ) and use the search function. Everything regarding a RB swap can be found this way. Good luck with the build.

There's typically a restrictor in the feed line limiting the flow of oil to the turbo, so there shouldn't be any serious pressure in the return line. If you didn't bend it much, then I'm fairly confident it will be fine. If your seriously worried though, you could buy some fittings and a chunk of silicone pipe and replace the return line. Cheers.

That sounds like a pretty interesting swap. Any thoughts about how you would get power to the front wheels? I imagine all of the front suspension would need to be removed, then something from an awd/fwd car welded to the frame in its place. Then there would be the issue of getting front drive axles sized correctly for the width of the car. That's probably quite a bit of work.

A 66mm bore spacer wont fit over the bearing cover on the front wheels, but it should go on the back no problem. The spacer would need to have a bore of 73 or anything bigger to clear the front. This is based on my experience trying to get 66mm bore wheels on my'73 240, they simply wouldn't go on. Perhaps '72s had different sizing. It would be easy enough to take the wheel off and measure what the diameter of that bearing cover is though.

Skinning the part in CF might be more useful to you than molding the part. Here's a link to a youtube vid on how to do it. You could use body filler to modify the parts, then lay CF over them when you've got them the way you want. If you decide to make a mold, these guys also have vids on how to do that with out vacuum bagging. If you do end up doing it, post up pics of the results! That would be cool to see. Good luck!

Well if its an SR20DET (turbo) then there are quite a few different versions. Here's a list of all the SR engines, turbo'd or not: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SR_engine#SR20DET good luck.

3:55 - What a sweet Turbo! That must be good for at least 50hp

These guys have just the mustache bar bushings, unfortunately it looks like there 50$ a set... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-Mustache-Bar-Bushings-14-1602-BL-/360021913084 Searching "nissan 14-1602" on google yielded a few cheaper results, but some of the companies looked less than reputable, where as Ive had good service from Z Parts House on ebay. Best of luck

I don't know off hand, but the FSM's are available at this link. http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html (z31) or here http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html (s30) Hope that's useful. Good luck.

A ticking started can sometimes be a sign of a bad battery. If the battery is dead, the the alternator could also be suspect. The noise you described could mean something much worse happened though, like the engine breaking a connecting or some such horrible thing. Id recommend you start by checking out your battery though.

Take a read through this sticky; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ It mentions the R180 can take a big block v8 for street use, but if you go spinning the wheels to much, the insides will get chewed up. Check the stickies at the top of each section when your looking for info. Its usually covered in there. Good luck with your build

Its 142-152 N*m or 108 ft-lb. Its in the timing belt section of the rb fsm. Good luck

Im not quite sure if its what your looking for, but I have a stock 240z drive shaft out of a 1973 4 spd. The shaft has some minor surface rust that i would be willing to remove and paint, and the U joints are also in great shape. It measures to 29 1/4". Im also located in Ontario, so shipping would not be much of a hassle. Let me know if your interested, Ill shoot you a PM aswell. Thanks, Shane G.

When I pulled my exhaust manifold off, I discovered I had two snapped studs. Ive heard about the new softer studs from Nissan, but honestly I couldn't find any. Nismoparts has been out of stock for a couple of weeks, and anyone selling them on ebay wanted 40$+ to ship to Canada. The typical Nissan dealers in my area didn't have any that would fit, so this was pretty much my only option. Im not quite sure what your asking (would i recommend replacing them). If you mean would i swap intact stock Nissan ones for Toyota ones? then no, I'm really not sure if there any better. But if their broken and you cant locate a Nissan replacement, then these will at least get you going. As for an update, I'd be happy to let you know how they hold up, but more than likely it will be 6+ months down the road before my car is drivable.

For all those with broken exhaust studs on their RB25's, Ive discovered that the Mark III supra (1986–1992) uses identical studs. The Toyota part number is 90116-10025, and Dorman also makes them, part number 03105. Im not sure how they'd fit on the other RB engines. Hopefully someone finds this info useful, as it took me a good two weeks to track down some to fit my engine.

Try http://www.rockauto.com , they have a huge parts catalog. Second to that, check junkyards in your area for 280s or look for someone parting out their car. Good luck.

That looks pretty good. And its pretty unique on a 280, that's worth some bonus points.

Your local auto parts store should have additives that will help. Something along these lines: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Bardahl-16-oz-no-smoke-treatment/_/N-260b?counter=8&itemIdentifier=491825_0_0_ My car would go through about a gallon of oil every 1000 miles or so, and this stuff cleared up my problem for the most part. Your burning way more than that, but it might slow the flow a bit. Good luck

Another +1 for pats oil pans. He had mine built from scratch and ready for shipping in just under a week. And when the shipping company refused to ship the item, due to some paperwork, pat stepped in and spent a few hours on the phone getting it all sorted out. The quality of workmanship on the pan, and the level of communication through out the entire process was outstanding.

Ive got a carb'd Z myself, and I took a shot tuning it for the first time. I thought I had everything going good so i took it out for a test drive, but after a few minutes out, it started to sound like garbage; it was running really lean and popping, then it started to sound as if it was running on 4 or 5 cylinders, much like yours. So I brought it home and after a few hours of trouble shooting i noticed that some of the sparkplugs in the non firing cylinders had a brown coating on them and wouldn't fire when switched them around. A new set of 6 and a re-tune had me going good. To sum up, check your plugs, I know it wouldnt affect your compression, and that there could be something more serious going on, but hopefully it will at least get them all firing again. Good luck

Thanks for the quick reply's and warm welcomes, ill give driving it for a week or so a shot. Its not really putting out enough to blind the people behind me, so i suppose it will be alright. I checked the dipstick as you recommended T-bone, and it didn't look milky so i guess that means Ive damaged the rings? from what im hearing though, it sounds like the car should be alright to drive for the season though, and ill scrap the motor for something new next year. Thanks again everyone,

This is my first post here, so ill start off with a bit of an introduction about my self and my Z. I'm in my 3rd year of engineering at university in Ontario, and Ive got a lot of spare time on my hands. A friend of mine suggested that i should get a classic car to restore in my down time. So back in December i started looking around, and seeing what options there were for local classics. I originally decided on an old Corvette, from the 70s or late 60s, and began searching for one in reasonable condition. In one of my searches on auto trader, i noticed a 240z for sale and immediately fell in love with its looks. I decided that's the car i would buy, and started doing a bit of research on it. That led me to this forum, and here i found out the things to check for when buying a Z, the typical rust in the floor ect. All the cars avaliable to me were all in the 4-5k$ range, and had the floors rusted out amongst various other problems. Then i found a 73 in amazing shape. the po had restored the floors and frame along with giving the car a new paint job. The car wasnt running, but the owner assured me it was mechanically sound so i bought it on the spot for 4500$. It needed to be towed about 200kms back to my place, but i got a good deal on that from a friend. Some how between buying the car and getting it to the garage, the rear tail light got smashed in, luckily i was able to get a replacement from z parts for not to much. you can see the red tape ive put on as a temporary fix When i finally got some time to work on it, the first thing i noticed was that the fuel pump had been disconnected, it looked as though it was rigged up ready for a pressure test, which made me suspect there was an issue with the fuel system After reconnecting the pump, and installing a battery, i got the engine to crank with no problems, but it would not fire. I finally found that by filling the carb bowls i could get it to run. I figured if i primed the fuel system and did this and got it to run for a few mins, that everything would be fine and dandy. Sure enough, it coughed and spluttered but came to life. After idling for about 20 mins i figured it was time for a road test. The bubbles in the fuel filter should have tipped me off, but i decided to take it out for a spin. Sure enough, it died about a km down the road. After filling the bowls again and bringing it back, i still couldn't figure out what was wrong. I took the carbs off and rebuilt them, replacing all the seals. That made no difference. Eventually i got fed up and re installed every, and filled the gas tank completely to the top. I figured if that didn't solve the problem id have to take it to a pro. Sure enough filling the tank to the top got the engine to fire, but i noticed that there was a steady leak out of one of the lines, even if the car was off. The line looked like someone had installed a garden hose in place of a fuel line, and it was full of hair line cracks. These cracks were letting the fuel pump suck in air and it could only move enough fuel to let the car idle. With any load it would stall. Well i didn't feel like dropping the tank so i took it to a buddy's shop and had him replace the line. it cost me $160, but it was worth it. Draining the tank in February when its below freezing isn't fun. After that the car was in running order so i took it out for its first official drive, and noticed that the brakes were a bit spongy. I decided bleeding them would be the best option, but ended up snapping the bolts that let the fluid bleed out. Thats what i get for working with original parts i guess. So after replacing both wheel cylinders, it was time to order and install some rims before taking the car in to get safetyd. and a photoshop job my buddy did On to get it safteyed, i made a nasty discovery about my car, It either doesnt have a rev limiter or it isnt functioning. I was trying to pass a semi, so i shifted into second and floored it. I missed the shift and the revs hit about 10k rpm, and a coolant line exploded. I shut it off right away and got a buddy to help me push it back. After patching the line, the car restarted and runs, but there's a lot of blue smoke coming out the back, meaning im burning oil. It seems to me its either the piston rings or the head gasket. I planned to daily drive this car this summer, then do an rb20det engine swap next winter. I could use a little advice at this point. Im going to be putting about 10k kms or 6000 miles on the car this summer, and i dont mind topping up the oil if its not burning it too fast, but i dont want to put money into fixing an engine that ill be pulling in 6 months. So if any one could chime in on if this engine will last me 6000 miles reliably or if i should swap over to the rb20 right away, that would be great. heres a pic of how much oil im burning with the engine going about 2000-2500 rpm ive never dealt with an oil burning engine before so once again it appreciate any help you guys could offer on making this decision.

I bought my first Z, a '73 240, about a month ago, in February. Ive struggled with the engine and fuel pump for a month and finally managed to get everything running. Figured id celebrate by getting some nice rims for the car. So I ordered some Rota RBRs, and got them in the mail today. I specified a 73mm hub bore when i ordered them, but the ones they shipped me have a 67.1 mm bore and wont fit on the front properly. I was wondering if anyone had experienced a problem like this or had any good ideas on a fix. I was thinking of using a spacer with the proper bore to push the rim out slightly to where the wheel hub's taper would make the diameter < 67. Alternatively it was suggested to me to just sand the rim/wheel hub down by 6mm, but i don't think I'd be able to get them perfectly round. Also, yes I ran a few quick searches and didn't find anything that would solve my problem. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.