AK-Z

Does changing the final drive, change the whp? I know it changes torque. I was under the impression that it does, since part of how HP is calculated, uses torque numbers

found out what it was. I put octane booster in the tank, because of the craptastic "premium" grade gas that they have up here (90 oct is considered premium up here).

ANYONE?

Oh. and I thought it was black = rich. thats why when I run it rich my tail pipes get all sooty

Sorry, this is on my genesis. like 9K miles on it. So, its pretty new. Its pretty orange. I've tuned it a bit. I've swapped it out for a WRX one, because the turbine fin angle on it are a bit more aggressive. Sorry, bit blurry.

This question isn't on my datsun, but might as well ask. I took my turbo off my other car, and the turbine wheel appears orange. Does this I'm running lean, rich, or what? thanks.

Ok. so they went that route. Don't want to step on anybody's toes, so I guess I won't sell them on here.

Noted. I didn't want to start a new thread on this, so.... Why aren't I able to start a new thread in the For Sale section? I have a boost and A/F gauge that I want to unload, since I got a 2in1 unit.

I got hyundai. I like it very much

You should hold out towards the end of the year. Hyundai is going to be selling the sonata with a 2.0T DI, supposedly good for 275 hp (crank )

My DD

I like it. Its actually quite nimble for being so heavy. Its like 100 pounds lighter than the z32. Really freakin easy to mod. Surprisingly hyundai went with a IATS and MAP sensor setup, no MAFs to deal with. Rebuilt the turbo from a TD04L-13T (same in the wrx) to a TD04L-19T with a forge wastegate actuator, and am using Dynojet CMD to tune fuel and whatnot. Starting to max out the injectors, so I have boost down to 24~26ish psi. Can hit over 30 easily with it. So next thing will probably be larger injectors and lager FMIC. Had a scrap on the rocker panel and cracked my bumper in the winter time. just fixed it recently. Convinced myself that I will replace the bumper with a Cuper bumper if the bumper cracks some thing horrible again. Need an opinion on the bumper though. Got the automatic, because it was the only one they had in the 2.0T. Heres the car as of today. Bit dirty because I can't wax, or cut and polish until the clear coat cures completely. Last year bumper in question

Since I've gotten my Genesis Coupe, been doing things on that car hehe. Haven't been on here for almost a year. I haven't had a chance to dyno it, I would give a very conservative guess at about 250 whp from the stock 175 whp (2.0T). Turbo upgrade and piggy back system, BOV. My 280z has been sitting in storage for the mean time. Starting the project back up .

well. it needs to be a TD04L specifically. it needs to be able the turbine housing that I have already. thanks for your inquiry

Looking for a used TD04L, commonly found in the wrx and volvos. Size of the compressor side does not matter to me. I don't mind if the turbine housing happens to be cracked, as long as the core, bearings and turbine wheel are in good shape.

get the front clip. It will include the dash gauges and climate control as well. Would think all that alone would cost more than $700 with shipping . Might even be able to swap over the brake booster and whatnot

Best way to redo the old soldering is to: 1. cut the old solder section out. 2. get some shrink tubing and slide it onto one of the wires you will be joining 3. strip and flux your wire connections. 4. depending on what gauge wire you are dealing with, you might be able to get away with just using a soldering iron, but in most cases that I've dealt with, a pen torch works best. "tin" you connections. 5. get a wire sleeve crimp connector and join the wires with it and crimp it. 6. heat the sleeve with a pen torch so the wires solder in place. 7. slide the shrink tubing over the connection and heat it until its tight around the connection

Let me put it this way. Have YOU ever put a L28 5 speed ONTO a KA24DE? Well I HAVE. END OF STORY

Ummm. read the thread title. KA24DE (ENGINE) + L28 5 speed (TRANSMISSION) = shift jamming into your leg. The KA 5 speed, is NOT the SAME as the L28 5speed. And what I was saying "NO" to was this statement Just because the engine is "tilted" doesn't mean that the transmission is, engineers are clever that way. And as tony said the engine tilt angle is determined by the oil sump. BTW I don't even look at post counts. I didn't even know you were new here. Never called you a noob, or questioned your knowledge of car. someone is jumping to conclusion. EDIT: Bolting tranny on tomorrow. Going to show proof and put an end to all these assumption.

NO. I have already confirmed it. I bolted my L28 5 speed to the KA. I know how the KA sits. Don't believe me? I can bolt it back on there and take pics. To have it sit properly, you need to swap the KA bell housing ONTO the L28 5 speed.

At least it won't be as bad to fix up, compared to most of the older Zs out there . American steel > japanese steel

Next time, nightscope

any updates, dr hunt?

"fast, isn't she?"

Wrong. I just ran my cross member about 1/2" forward, because I have a tube chassis up front. Issues withe transmission. You "can" simply just bolt up the transmission to the KA block, but.... the transmission will sit about 10 degrees to the the left , so the shifter will sit towards the driver side, instead of sitting straight up and down. Issues with removing the power steering pump. The same belt runs the water pump, so you can't just remove it. You'll need both alternator brackets from a KA24"E" (sohc) engine. This will locate the alternator about an inch back so it runs inline with the water pump. Then you will also need a thermostat housing from the the sohc engine, because you'll run into issues of the belt rubbing if you use the dohc housing.