AK-Z

The core on the turbo is good. It was the housing that I was worried about. Well anyways. Found out that the 14b and 16g are the same as far as the turbine side is concerned. The 16g just had a larger opening on the housing, same turbine wheel. Compressor side is different, but are interchangeable. So you can turn a 14b into a 16g with the right parts (16g; housing, wheel, and trust bearing)

Ok, found it. Its 10Ω - 80Ω

Oh ok. For a second there I thought that it was the motor that was bolt-on. Ok, its the whole column

the fender mirrors were a JDM standard. that is why they weren't seen anywhere else, other than japan. Fender mirrors were put on other cars as well. It was done to meet the size requirements of the whole car at the time.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147521 read

whats the factory ohm ranges for the 280z sending unit?

can't bring drag coefficient any higher on the first gens . It would be a nice replacement for the side vents/emblems . maybe i was thinking of the GTO version that I saw .

if I was either one of them, I would be sh*tting bricks

If "you" want to do it. You need to find the last owner that had the title. There are services to find out the who the legitimate owner is.

the trick is to preheat the aluminum evenly before welding. Yes its tricky, its like pushing around snot, it builds up if the base metal is too cold, and doesn't really liquify until its too late and then there's a hole. I've been playing around with those aluminum welding rods that you use a propane torch to weld (I believe its just brazing aluminum). Got a half pound of the stuff for like $11 at ACE hardware (i couldn't believe it, a 3 rod package is like $7 by itself ). Stuff melts at 732* F. Couldn't get it to work (was thinking of welding, not brazing ) watched a couple youtube vids and seemed easy enough.

We don't hate them (well I don't). its on the wrong forum, wrong section (though, that can be argued) and the guy is obviously trying to rice out the family car. 9x out of 10 the reason is, "I want to be different" and no other purpose. And its fun to poke fun at someone like this, who in order to be "different" asks for "others" opinions. I think the troll has left a while ago

since he wants to use the L28 transmission, he wouldn't need to get a custom driveshaft. He just needs to mount the transmisson to the tranny mount, in then tunnel, then put the engine mount where the tranny mount dictates where everything is positioned.

Since you are using the SR bell housing, everything in front/inside of the bell housing should be all SR. Its not the fork that you should worry about in respect to the TOB engaging the pressure plate, Its the TOB collar, usually comes with a clutch kit with the bearing pressed on. So just order a clutch kit for an SR, or use the stock one, and you'll be fine. Not sure on the bushing part. You will know, when you test fit the bell housing on the transmission. I think that part is going to be too much of a hassle because the bushing/spacer (whatever you want to call it) will be so thin. But if you press in a thicker one into the housing and then bore/drill it out, it won't be so bad.

You can rebuild it. Only reason I see in taking it to a shop for a rebuild is because of something being off balance, and/or the turbo in question that needs rebuilding is a "non floating bearing" turbo (ball bearing). Would be wise to do that if you mod it by changing out a compressor wheel/housing like I have, but I'm cheap Yes 20,000 miles is a joke. From what I can tell, seals starting to go and starts leaking, or something catastrophically goes wrong, like the compressor wheel shattering. IIRC bigphil you rebuilt your holset, correct?

the pressure plate on the 2+2 has a higher pressure rating than the NA L series engine in both the first gen Z and the 280zx. Not sure if its higher in the L28ET, but I know its higher than the 280zx NA. (referring to the 280zx coupe, not the 280zx 2+2. pretty sure its the same pressure plate in the 2+2, but can't verify)

Its more practical to buy a used OEM turbo and just rebuild it. I mean with my OEM mitsubishi TD05H, I got for $40, plus a new turbine housing and wastegate actuator $100, TD06 compressor wheel and housing $90. still cheaper than most of the chinese knockoffs. Some would argue otherwise with the knockoffs, but IMO, its hit or miss, with an emphasis on miss.

Lol I shouldn't be reading when I'm half asleep . Yes, reading what you wrote, after getting some sleep. I agree I'm in the same position as altrock182, but my reason is... <======== location. I just ended up cutting my L28 bell housing in half, rotating the piece cut by 10-15 degrees and welding it back on. Reason why I cut in half instead of cutting the flange is because of the bulge for the started.

Just so people don't get confused. Engine stand Engine hoist

Its a soccer mom mobile. If you want to be different, just put a bumper sticker on and be done with it

On mine, I didn't have to get a new drive shaft. You can just mount the engine according to the where the tranny fits with the shaft, Well thats how I did mine. You are going to have to swap the tach, and get 2 custom radiator hoses, and the universal hose kit can be pretty pricey for a hose. I think its doable for $600 minus the driveshaft.

You are thinking about swapping a KA/SR tranny onto a L28. Doing it the opposite, you will have to fill it in, Or jam a brass bushing into the bell housing to tighten up the countershaft. I'm not sure as to which would work best, because I haven't do it before. The fork won't be an issue, because Everything in front of the transmission has to match the bellhousing (SR bell housing) So~, you will need a SR bell housing, flywheel, clutch kit, fork; L28 transmission. then swap bell housings.

I made my bracket around one of the two belts that came with my KA

I pretty sure its been done before.