240Z Turbo

First step is to ge the intake and intecooler finalized. I already have the intercooler mounted and will have the intake done by weeks end. I will next tackle the challenge of the twin GT25R turbos. The manifold will be another one off 321SS header with double slip merge collectors. BTW, my new RB26 sure looks good on the engine stand Thanks JOEL

Don't buy a ridiculously overpriced RB setup that only gets you low 11's when you can buy an L28 Twin turbo that runs 10.6@134 for cheaper. Comes with complete motor/Electromotive fuel managment/piping/intercooler/radiator and best of all it has an oil pan and motor mounts. Motor is ready to run and priced to move. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7937450340&category=33615&sspagename=WDVW

If you are serious then that is something that I am willing to do Bye Bye KA

350hp n/a on the KA motor. Call Rebello and ask them what they are getting. From my understanding they are also getting in the 350hp range. My understanding was the rod:stroke ratio on the KA was 1.72:1. Why is that bad for revs? It is a better ratio than the KA

We should not argue about which is better, but let us see how the motor performs once it is built. Then we can make the comparison. BTW, is there a crank that has less stroke that can be swapped? I know a few 1.8L Honda motors that make 600hp@wheels so why is it not possible for a KA? The stock rods may be crap, but who runs stock rods in a 600hp SR? I have already begun work on the intake by chopping off the runners and decking them so I can send it to the machinist. He will port the manifold and then send it back so I can fab the intake. He will let me know the optimal runner length and then finish the wet flow bench testing. Let us see what happens. BTW, they are currently getting 350hp@flywheel N/A on these motors.

I have decided to swap a KA motor into my 240Z datsun with a powerglide behind it. I think the argument should be based on what type of power you are looking to make. If you want the standard 300-400hp then the SR might make sense. However, once you start trying to reach the higher hp #'s the KA motor seems to make more sense. Even if you get a hell of a deal on an SR you are still in the hole $1000-$1500 for the cost of the base motor when compared to the KA. Rods for the KA and SR are the same cost and pistons are also the same cost. Head porting is the same cost, but cams are a bit more expensive for the KA motor by ~$250. The KA has a cast iron block(plus) whereas the SR is an aluminum block. I would prefer the cast iron block for increased rigidity on a high hp motor. The KA heads are said to have a higher flow potential from what I have read. This will need to be verified and the extra 20% discplacement is always a plus for generating torque. I believe the problem of the myth regarding the KA is due to a lack of effort to use this motor. Go to the KA-t.org site and you can see several folks making 530hp@wheels and revving to 8K using the KA motor. I am shooting for an honest 650-700hp@wheels and will be sending my KA motor to Peformance Airflow Technologies for the $5K super massage!

Just wanted to give someone on hybrid an opportunity to buy the motor if they are interested before I place it on ebay. http://hybridz.org/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=46&sort=1&cat=16&page=1

I'm done with my part. Now get that stuff coated and polished.

I guess my car is not legit? Dynoed 451hp/509ft-lbs@wheels running balls rich without the nitrous(125shot). Based on the 134.1mph trap speed the car is making about 510hp@wheels. Also, this is with the converter not putting full power potential to the ground. I am sending it back to have it tightened up on the topend. I hope to see 136-137mph trap speeds.

Sounds about right. That turbo is good for ~1000hp and at 29psi of boost he should make in the 600+hp@wheels range. I thought about putting my GT42R on the L, but have decided to sell my motor and go RBpower with a GT42R.

I ran the final tube last night. However, it was done at my buddies shop and when I did the fit on the car it is too close to the valve cover. No worries, chopped off the tube and rotated it away from the valve cover for clearance and I will rerun the short piece I cut out this weekend. Cut the front of the intake plenum to angle the TB correctly before I weld on the TB plate and finally mounted the intercooler permanently. Can now run the IC piping.

Rick, a few things I would point out. Is it wise to not run the pump until the temps get to 140F? I would think you would want it on at all times as to not create hot spots. Remember, the temp gauge may not account for an unhomogenous water temp as the water is stagnent in the system. Running a lower thermostat can, in some cases, make the temps run hotter. Try running a 180F thermostat. Burping the system can take some time so make sure the overflow bottle is in use so it can draw water back into the system replacing the air. I would swap back the mechanical pump until you can isolate the problem. BTW, did you have your butt dyno calibrated this year?

Indeed it is all 321SS and it is John Taylor's car. I have one more tube to run from the #1 cylinder to the collector. We came up 1 bend short so I will need to get another bend to finish the header.

I have been running the BR8-ES

The turbo is a Big Kahuna (p-trim .58) and flows ~73lbs/min. Motor should generate 550hp@wheels at 20psi.

Will be updating as I go along. Received all the 321SS for the custom 6-1 turbo header. Intercooler is almost done along with the intake manifold. Will probably have the header done this weekend if all goes well. Not much room to work with

1/8" PVC aluminum. PVC is just protective coating that is peeled off so the pan is very shinny. The pans are almost all done, just waiting on the damn 304SS .75" tube for the custom oil pickups.

I don't believe you need to remove the hood as I did not when I performed the test fit. You will need to have the hood open. Better to get these issues resolved now and atleast with the new design is will fit in all 70-78Z without different tank versions. Yes, relocation of the horns will be necessary, but not that big of a deal in my opinion.

Joel is being too nice to me today The front of the 260Z is a bit different than the 240Z. Actually, the space between the frame rails is significantly less in the front where the intercooler mounts. Although this core fit easily on my car there is some small clearance issues on the later 260Z. Not a big deal at all. The core was sent back to me and will be modded promptly with a new tank design based on the dimensions of the 260Z. I have to admit, this damn core is very impressive and for $650 I don't think you can beat the performance. Will keep you updated. BTW, there are no issues with hood clearance once the intercooler is lowered to the correct height. Here is a drawing of how the tanks are to be modified.

John, I should have it welded tomorrow and will finish the port matching of the velocity stack to the runner. It will then await your car for the custom plenum.