240Z Turbo

I still owe you my subframe:)

Matt, That is sort of a misconception for this application. You can go as low as 3K on the stall for the 8" converter. Just ask John T as he runs this setup on his street car. The converter will only stall when sufficient torque is applied and the RB makes no torque until the turbo comes alive. That is part of the difficulty in properly sizing a converter for a turbo application. A v8 is another story since they make lots of torque at the lower rpms. Bottom line is that you can have a very streetable turbo car using an automatic and 8" converter. Driving around and part throttle will not cause the converter to stall as that only happens when sufficient torque is applied. BTW, I ran around for 1 year with the PG and 3700rpm stall with no issues and my original 4N71B auto used a converter that had a 5700rpm stall. The converter wouldn't slip just cruising, but when I laid into the throttle it did stall and the turbo came alive very quickly. Another thing to consider is that because the Z car is so light it does not create as much load as does a heavier car.

Matt, I purchased one for John Taylor as well as another friend of mine to run the RB25. I also have that kit, but it does require that you use their custom 8" converter. Contact me if you need one.

I now despise someone else:) Call my engine guy if you want more info. http://www.theoldone.com

FYI, Wiseco makes all of JE's forgings. Wiseco pistons are typically much cheaper. Pistons sold as Wiseco brand use a difference forging process from what I am told and they are better.

When I read your response I picture a dwarf dancing around in a colorful outfit while singing happy songs. When the song is done a rainbow shoots out of his rear end. Jamie and James are once again friends.

I wasn't beating my chest when I made that remark. If you sold the car to support the house that is one thing, but to sell the car to support another car, non JDM, that is another. Obviously it is your choice and you have your own reasons, but I don't understand why you would want to drop the project after putting in a substantial initial effort. It begs the question, "Are you scared? Then say you're scared." JDM=Jamie Didn't Makeit JDM=James Did Makeit JDM=Junky Domestic Motor

If you're scared, say you're scared

It had been recommended that we remove the squish area, but since we are using a custom piston top configuration made from taking molds of the combustion chamber we can take advantage of the squish area to create mechanical octane(combustion efficiency).

Finally got some flow specs for my RB26 cylinder head from Endyne. Head specs as follows: HKS 280 10.2's IN/EX Camshafts (thanks Matt) Fidanza Cam Gears Ferrea Valve Springs/Ti Retainers/Seat Locators 1mm Oversized Inconel Exhaust Valves 1mm Oversized SS Intake Valves Endyne Port work and combustion chamber modifications. Below is the blurb I was given about the way the head flow is measured. The orifice measurement method we used to generate these sheets is the same as very conservative Superflow standards at 28". It should be noted that I use our air-flow transducer to develop ports, and it's CFM readings are between 15 and 20 CFM higher than those I've attached. I've found over the years using our element nets better-performing heads, but the public likes Superflow numbers for comparison sake.

I think I am going with the stocker and o-ring the block. I had much success on the L28 with that approach.

electronic wastegate controller?

Ivan, sorry I could not call you back, but i am on business travel until friday. Will call you then to discuss further. james

We can do the turbo header we discussed while at SEZ. I am thinking a nice symmetrical 321 SS jobber that won't break the bank. I got the idea when looking at a Gale Banks header. We will use a 4-1 formed collector and have cylinders 3&4 dump right into the collector. Cylinders 1&2 will merge and then go to the collector and cylinders 5&6 will do the same. We will use a double slip joint between 1&2 before they merge and a double slip joint after they merge, but before the collector. Call or send me a PM. The pic below is not how it will be done, but gives some ideas.

My old TT setup used 125shot off the line with the powerglide tranny. I would foot brake ~2800rpm(0psi) and had the nitrous on a full throttle switch. Got instant boost ~17-19psi and the car cut several 1.66 60ft times. Had wheel spin issues most of the time with the Nitto drag radials. Was a bit much depending on whether the track was prepped. Even with a crappy 1.8 60ft the car went 10.6 at 134.1. BTW, this race was against some clown with a supercharger kit on a mustang. He had all the go fast boys around his car thinking it was all that. LATER! I have it on video and need to convert it some time.

2.5" from what I remember

I was looking at the SR20DET powered RX7 that used the same turbo, I made that pipe smaller.

That Thagard, he is such a nice fellow.

I think we need to have my guy do the rework, otherwise you will void your 20yr warranty:)

I told you we should have used 2.25"-2.5" instead of 3":)

Joel's setup, 24"x12"x4.5" John's setup, 24"x12"x3.5"

That is the Big Kahuna turbocharger, the same as JTaylor runs on his stock RB25 powered 280Z. What are your power goals and what is the application?

Optimal AFR's for your N/A LT-1 are between 12.8:1-13:1. I have done a lot of work at South Georgia Corvette and he has dyno tuned many LT-1 engines. I called them to verify those numbers. Good luck.

Joel, I don't know anything about helping cool the cylinder head. You told me you wanted heated seats and a coffee warmer