tonycharger72

jmortensen, Thanks heaps for the info mate,

I measured the rear strut tubes, just below the spring perch weld, the 1974 260z rear struts = 106.10mm (4.17") diameter the 1977 260z rear struts = 109.91mm (4.32") diameter, These may not be exact, i measured them each three times with my calipers and each time the reading was slightly different, like a few 100's of a mm out, i took the average and got the above, But the 1977 rear struts were bigger for sure, but only very slightly, Im curious about the hubs from the 1977 zed though, Would it be possible to just use the rear hubs from the 1977 and install them into the 1974 rear struts - or will they not fit???

http://www.showwheels.com.au/home.php Anyone bought wheels from this mob??? Got put onto them by a local mag/tyre shop,

Try your question on, www.ozdat.com/forum There is a sh#tload of info of sr20's into 1600's, im sure someone would be able to point you in the right direction,

Thanks for the replies guys, "Early 260 uses 240 struts, late 260 uses 280 struts." jmortensen, Its apprears your right champ if we go on the spline counts, Ive counted the splines in the 1977 hubs and its 27 - so i guess this means that it is more than likely exactly the same as the 280z hubs, therefore the struts would pretty much have to be the same as the 280z's aswell right??? JohnC - thanks for explanation mate, 260DET, "Also, what anti sway bars are you proposing to use? Shocks, springs, bars are all interdependant. Shocks are particularly important, minimum for your use would be revalved Koni Yellow." Not really sure mate, Ive only got a vague idea of what i should do at the moment, in regards to spring rates and suitable shocks or suitably thick sway-bars, I was planning on running Adjustable Radius Rods and Lower control arms though, I was thinking something along the lines of 175lbs springs front and back, shocks that suit this spring rate and about a 1" thick front sway-bar and keep the rear sway-bar at stock size, then get my hands on some front and rear strut braces, Im not 100% certain if im going to go to an adjustable spring perch and whether or not im going to lower the car, so i dont wanna go out and buy springs and shocks and then just end up not using them, or use them for a couple of months and then take another route, Another consideration is that it looks like the front of the car sits a bit higher with the 2jz in it than it should, so i kinda figure i got two options, 1 - go to an adjustable spring perch 2 - get lowering springs and lump any loss in suspension travel (which looks like it wont be much)

Nitro - sent you a PM mate, Cyrus - Do you have any pics mate of the adapter block, or a write up, little bit more detail???

Was wondering if anyone could give me some info, I have a set of 1977 260z 2 seater struts, & A set of 1974 260z 2 seater struts, Im planning on converting to 5-stud rear and what i'd planned to do was use the struts & hubs from the 1977 zed and install them into my 1974 zed (one is a daily driver that i dont wanna take of the road, the other is pretty much a parts car), Is this ok, ive heard there are differences between the struts, like difference in inner and outter diameter's, but this wouldnt affect anything other than not being able to use the same springs & shocks right? I wont put the 1977 struts in the 1974 zed and find they dont fit or change the ride height of the car??? Or, Would it be possible to just use the rear hubs from the 1977 and install them into the 1974 rear struts - or will they not fit, ALSO............another question, Just say you put 250lbs springs in the front and used 150-175lbs springs in the rear, would this mean that you have a good street racing type setup, because the front springs are very stiff so very little body roll around corners and the rears are quite soft so when you lay the power down they squat, which means you dont lose the back-end as easily???

Mate said hes got a Z32, with about 400-450hp, took it to a few local race-tracks, said he had no flexing issues, but after about 6-7laps the brakes started to get really really hot, said he changed brake pads, used different brake fluid and it pretty much solved the heat issues, atleast for a few more laps, but said his Z32's calipers didnt appear to flex, Im thinking these calipers are going to be awesome for my car and all the braking ill ever need

Ross, Im not sure whether the R32 are the same as the Z32 calipers, but id surprised if there was that much difference between them, Im pretty much just going on what alot of folks have said to me, if you have the choice between a 4-spot and a 2-spot and they are compartiable in piston size then choose the 4-spots, But as 260det said, "Overall for anything other than a hi-spec dedicated race car, IMHO the PBR's are the best practical choice." This is pretty much what everyone ive spoken to has said about the PBR's, a very very good caliper, cheap as, lots of pad selection, slightly larger pistons than the R32/Z32 calipers and will never ever fade with daily driving and is still a pretty decent track caliper, pretty much the same comments ive heard about the R32/33/34 4-spots

Check this out mate http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102932 then for the rears http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103077 Modern-Motorsports sells custom front 5-stud hubs, and re-drilled 5-stud rears,

Thats pretty much what my front brakes will end up being, R32 4-spot sumitono's with a 298mm vented rotor, ive build a bracket out of MDF and it looks a sh#tload like the mounting bracket in that pic, very very similar, Ive figured (by putting my R32 calipers on scales) that they weigh 4.1lbs approx, the stock Zed calipers weigh about 9.2lbs from memory, The rotor im using is = 9.2kgs (20.24lbs) The stock Zed rotor is = 5.5kgs (12.1lbs) So stock Zed setup weighs = 21.3lbs approx New Brakes will weigh = 25lbs approx, So my new brakes weight a touch more, but there is alot more stopping power, These 4-spot sumitono's are cheap as, almost as cheap as buying a set of PBR's from a VT Commodore, But as the last bloke said, they are not the greatest calipers in the world, but id still take them over PBR's and probably Wilwood Superlites and Dynalites because they have dust seals, and most folks ive spoken to say Wilwoods Flex like crazy, or atleast there lower end stuff

Yeah, like a stock suspensioned, stock bodied zed,

"195/70/14 is the stock tire size so 225/35/19 is only barely larger diameter. 19" wheels?" 195/70-14 = 24.74" (628mm), rolling diameter 225/35-19 = 25.20" (640mm), rolling diameter How much bigger could you go??? like overall rolling diameter, 26", 27"???

17by7 will fit easily, a 17by7 with a 0 offset (4" BS) would be about ideal, however finding a 17b7 with a 0 offset may be a bit tricky, You would probably only be able to find off the shelf rims in 6+ or 20+ offset in 17by7" or a much higher positive offset, like 35-40+ (dont know what it would be like for you in the states though, might get lucky), and if you want to keep the same rolling diameter (bout 628mm) use a 215/45-17 tyre, Some folks have even managed to squeeze 17by8" rims on there stock zeds, using a 0 offset with 4.5" BS,

Thanks for that Zcarnut

Maybe its the angle............ But f#ck, what kind of wheels can you use with those calipers, the hub isnt installed, but its about an 1" thick, it looks like those calipers will overhang the mounting face of the hub by about 20-30mm (1") or so???

Hey Tony C you got any pics mate, love to see what they look like on your car?

Well, This is what ive figured out, this is it in theory, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3659&cat=500&page=1 this is it in practice http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3658&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3657&cat=500&page=1

Zcarnut, Thanks for the write-up mate and the additional info, Just have another question, Finding a 280zx turbo might be a tad bit tricky in OZ, im pretty sure it was never actually sold here from the Dealerships, i think we only got the NA version of the 280zx, So would it be sweet using the NA 280zx CV's & Axles or do they differ from the turbo version??? Also, what year 280zx CV's and axles did you use or recommend using, are they all the same or do they differ from 1979-83???

"I used the Z31 non turbo companion flange along with the 280ZX turbo CV axles to complete the swap. " Zcarnut, do you think this work with Z31 CV axles aswell? "I measured 3.0 mm difference after everything was re-assembled. I just shimmed the Maxima rear caliper bracket (I intended to use) out with washers and everything lined up OK." Was this an increase or decrease in track???

Bit curious though as to what people have done with, 1 - Speedo Cable 2 - Throttle/Accelerator Cable Anyone???? Cyrus???

Lindsey at www.zshop.net.au Flogs of Externally adjustable Koni's to suit a lowered Zed, from memory i think they were going for $800AUD/shock, He says they are made up specially for him by Koni from memory,

Ive re-posted this as it probably should be in a seperate post, This is what i have planned for the front brakes with my new hubs, Option 1, Uses a Mitsubishi 3000GT rotor, which is 314mm by 30mm, Its 45.5mm in height and has a 5 by 114.3 PCD, i will have to enlargen the centre hole from 69mm to 71.5mm, i will use a R32/Z32 4-Spot Sumitono Caliper, i choose this rotor cause its $89AUD/side slotted and its the right thickness for the R32/Z32 Caliper http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto....&cat=500&page=1 Option 2, Uses an R32 GTR V-Spec Rotor, which is 324mm by 30mm, its 53.75mm in overall height and has a 5 by 114.3 PCD, i have to enlargen the centre hole from 68mm to 71.5mm and once again i will use the Sumitono's, These Rotors aint cheap though, DBA only sell them in 4000 series, so they will be around the $200AUD/side mark, http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto....&cat=500&page=1 At the moment Im trying to decide whether to mount the caliper bracket on the inside or outside of the original Zed caliper mounting ears, Im thinking it would probably be easier to mount them on the inside, Because if i mounted the bracket on the outside of the original Caliper Mounting ears i would probably have to thread the bracket as i dont think i would have space to put a nut on the bolt end, What you guys think???

"When above 10g you attach, the caliper - direct bomb hit... the people who are holding, the stomach until you say, you have not laughed." This was the best one Blame my old man, hes full on them - mates look at me sometimes like i should be out catching crocodiles

"The guys on ozdat love the SR's to much because they make a wicked replacement for the 1600s / stanzas / bluebirds / 510's and still keep the nissan lable on it." Your not f#cking wrong there mate, go on on on on on about it "Anyway we've probably confused the s**t outta the dude who originally asked the question :P" Hehehehe, yeah, but theres lots of good info about Sr20's in this post now