Here comes trouble

Looks pretty good, Jon.........saturate it with "pickle" and seal it !

I have never seen much interest in John's Car as opposed to JTR and MSA conversions.. Years ago....Hooker Headers did a V8 engine and tranny mountswap for the Z as well as a V6 swap for the 620 1973-79 pick-up.

If not done so...check the oil level. I have had a couple transmissions that were totally repaired by a pint of tranny oil.

Oh for the courage where few have dared to paint on their own

Great advice from Anthony and other members..... Document your claim...fllood them with paperwork and estimate, pictures following along the lines Mike spelled out and Anthony elaborated on. Your adversaries are very limited on time and are not even equipped to adequetely respond in kind to your paperwork. They have you talking to an answer machine...put it all in print...... the old fashioned way. After any conversation with them ..follow-up with a letter to specifically dispute thier views with facts and reality.

I stopped bidding when the bid reached half price on a used 4 BBl Arizona Z manifoild that retails for $259.00... With about 15 hrs to go the bidding is at $262.00. I hope this bidder is not a member here.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-240z-260z-280z-Intake-Manifold-for-Holley_W0QQitemZ7986768507QQcategoryZ36474QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Congrats on the courage to undertake such a difficult task the first time that requires good hand/eye coordination

With small broken taps..my luck has been to break them in pieces with a chisel or punch and remove the pieces with hopes the damage to the hole will allow salvage with a bigger tap and larger threads.... a new intake manifold may be a lot less problem... a broken tap is usually lodged in there very tight giving to the reason for breakage in the first place. Try all the suggestions above but do not let your costs overun a replacement manifold.

Those two black plastic 280 Z functionig louver panels on 280 Z' hood's were to cool the motors. Vent that 240 hood to let out air if not already done.

Some basics> L 20 B (and L 6) .. Most manuals show the blade or spade of the timimg shaft located at TDC at what is considered "11:25 AM".. the top of the blade is just right of the top distribitor mounting bolt hole and the bottom of the spade is just left of the bottom distribitor bolt hole ...ie 11:25 AM... At TDC your distribitor rotar's horizontal electrical blade should point towards the radiator and be under or near the distribitor cap's # 1 spark plug wire. The distribitor rotates counter-clockwise....and firing order is :1-3-4-2.. Your timing chain bright links should be aligned with sprocket timing mark (round indentation) at crankshaft and at the marked #1 indentation on the cam shaft sproket. Just a slight deviation from the above will cause problems........re-check all

Try Craig's List for your area .. I have found some "advertised" engine and tranny bargains.....http://portland.craigslist.org/

Imagine: $32,000.00 for a Hot Wheels model car.. Almost looks like a real car

Drive another 500 miles and visit me ..not quite Disneyland but I have a lot of Datsun Junk

Go with the most readily available..for a daily driver... forget the exotic stuff. about anything but a Briggs and Stratton going to make that GT fly anyway...These gas prices are not going down...as long as we depend on imports from China and India.

do not loosen the head bolts....with a "click it" tourque wrench start out in the tightening.sequence with 33 foot pounds and progress to 47 pounds and then to 61....This way you will discover which bolt(s) if any lost it's total tourqe....How are you going to discover if any bolt lost it's tourqe by loosening them all up and possibly damaging your gasket which in most cases usually can be compressed only once.?????????????

R180-200 side by side comparison From Eric Nyerlin lot of info on his site http://www.zparts.com/zptech/comparisons/images/DCP_0953rw.jpg

To me....it seems the second set has less features...(crystal) ......Flip a coin... I came up crystal

the dental work might get very expensive.which would be my concern......suitable for a VR rebody kit

T/O bearing comparisons from Eric Nyerlin http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/trans_swap%20parts/4tobear_specs1.html

Z Car Nut, Cody and DAW shot the full Maxima rear brake package down for lack of emergency brake compatiability..............Not much can get by these guys.

I had this package of rubber bushings to reduce radiator hose size of which I cannot find now. This would make a clean unobservable fit...Jegs has some filler and drain adapters from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2.. yout best bet maybe an exhaust pipe reducer that comes in about every size and cheap asw dirt if you cannot find the rubber reducer bushings..I wish I could find the package of bushings so I had a manufacturers name.

Stock pan holds 5 quarts... probably no harm in normal driving or in abnormal driving with sudden stops and sharp turns with a baffled pan..Some cars may blow off a 1/2 quart from full 5 qt capacity oil level from the turbulance inside the engine and run great on 4 1/2 quarts without blowing off more. A full quart low tends to worry me

On good clean flat manifold surface and good clean flat carb face surface... you should need any other prep with a good gasket...The bolts should be tourqed if you are inexperienced in tigtening carb bolts that do not that tight of fit. Before you tear into those SU's..get a rebuild manual and read up on it.I would not think it advisable to spend any money on rebuilds if the carbs are ot the early rounded tops (1970-72) as opposed to the later 1973-74 square shouldered round tops.. about any repair manual should hve the rebuild info and photos to tell the difference between the carbs. I do not know the tourqe requirements to mount the carbs to manifold

Those folks probably thought you were Ferris Bueller and did not want that kind of trouble. Mike, with the type of people you happen on ...take a Rottweiler with you or pal up with Clyde the orangatang

In addition to DL's post: Did you use the throw out bearing that came with the zx 5 speed.. There is considerabe difference in throw out bearing size over the Datsun production years and this will cause problem. You can also make an adjustable slave cylinder shaft out of a long grade 8 bolt's unthreaded shoulders to go in the slave cylinder and use the threaded part for the adjustment with nut and lock nut for the clutch fork side. Cut the unthredaed part for a slack fit with plenty thread on the back side for adjustment. Older Datsun's had an adjustable rod with a required hole in the clutch fork to take up the adjustment slack. Do not try to drill this hole when the clutch fork is installed...no go...requires drill press for hardended clutch fork.