Moridin

Why does anyone want to recall Davis? I understand the gaming thing, but are there any other reasons?

The Indian Gaming issue is a good point, but what about Arnold's lack of experience. As far as I know, this man has never had a hand in politics. He would not even go into a debate that didn't have to questions ready in advance for him. Don't forget that he didn't even vote in many past elections. What about McClintock? He seems to have a perfect record in politics. He keeps his word. Camejo is another excellent candidate that looks at everything empirically. When I saw him in the debate, he stayed out of the mud slinging, and presented every argument with some very good facts.

I've been seeing a lot of the Arnold banners in people's signatures, so I want to get some input on why you would. So, who's voting for Arnold, and why? What makes him better than McClintock, Camejo, Bustamonte, or Davis himself? Please don't answer with uneducated remarks.

Ground Control coil-overs with Advanced Design 24 way adjustable dampers custom valved (That's adjustable for both compression and rebound). Add this to Mikelly's suspension setup, and a totally redesigned floor area for proper bracing.

It was somewhere between $5000 and $8000 which was very expensive at the time for the type of car. There is a guy around here that does the Ford 302's in the Miatas, or at least a guy that drives one. The Miata chassis has been considered one of the best for years, and now you can put some power under the hood.

Whoever said anything about N/A?

What about the Advanced Design stuff with the Ground Control coil overs and camber plates. Everyone that I've talked to loves them, and I think they come in about $400 per corner. Not bad for a fully rebuildable strut with titanium components.

Depends if you get the three chamber or two chamber design. With exhaust, as I understand it (especially with turbos) you want nothing blocking the gasses coming out. The Flowmasters have "chambers" that change the sound to that nice rumble, but block air flow. Magnaflow, Borla, and I think Dynomax, along with others make a straight through muffler. It keeps the gasses flowing and makes for a good sound. Magnaflow isn't that expensive, is quiet on idle, and they all carry a lifetime warranty. The turbo will keep the exhaust quiet too. The Neon SRT-4's have no muffler, which is a testament to how much a turbo can quiet a motor.

I think your questioning of how fast these cars go in a straight line is typical of the automotive society in America. Not to say it is good or bad, but just the way it is. Unfortunately, I'm a road race fan, yet road racing is not nearly as big as oval track and the 1/4 mile. Personally, I believe there is much more skill when the wheel has to turn, and not just left. Like ON3GO said, these motors are made for a road course. The high revs help to exctract more power out of smaller displacement (that's why Formula 1 motors rev so high) and be able to hold a gear a little longer. Why people go and drag the FWD cars. I guess its a challenge. It's defying the natural way of things. As a result, we are getting some performance out of economy cars i.e. Ford Focus, Toyota Celica GTS, Dodge Neon SRT-4, and so on. If all racers wanted to have the fastest dragster (not relative to class), then every drag racer would have a rail car with a huge motor. The same thing holds true to why SCCA spec Miata racing is doing really well.

LSD plays a big role in drag times of FWD cars if I recall. The car is literally clawing for traction up front, where a RWD car will put its weight back to help give traction (Just reiterating comon knowledge I guess; or at least common to this forum). Inherently flawed for what? For drag racing yes, but not so for other areas. FWD vehicles don't have to worry about a driveshaft, rear-end, and all the other goodies of a RWD, so there is less to worry about and package in that respect. Anyway, my point is that the Honda's are packaged well and the old ones are pretty light, making it a good starting point for someone with little money and looking for reliability. My motor in my hatch has 145,000 miles and is still going strong. I don't even think the clutch has ever been replaced (Probably because it is only making 80HP). I just ordered a B16A1 with a LSD tranny to swap in. If I ever get it down to the drag strip, I'll report the times. Truthfully, the swap is so I can get on the freeway without having a heart attack, because I have no power to merge at speed. I guess the Spoon stuff has already been explained. They make neat things for the little Honda motors. With a few of their valvetrain components (Mugen, Skunk2, and others make the same things, just at differing qualities) the little Honda motors can rev sky high. It's a bit like a driving a motorcycle with four wheels as opposed to riding a two-wheeler. It just won't be as fast or put you in as much trouble.

Some of those B16 equiped older hatches will go pretty quick with some skill. I do it, because the car was given to me, and it gets damn good milage. Don't knock what you haven't tried man.

Turbo motors are quieter, because the turbo itself muffles the exhaust noise. On the Magnaflow note, they are really good mufflers. The resonators are supposed to really help with noise suppression if you are interested in it. Borla is another good manufacturer. They make the same type of non-louvered, straight through muffler. The Magnaflow stuff on NA motors seems to be quiet off idle, but then really open up as the motor revs higher. Like I said, the turbo will quiet it down, so you won't need to worry about it. Edit: Forgot to add something.

Oh, I'm pretty sure that bang, bang, bang is from the car running rich. Mine does the same thing, but it is from the car running extremely rich. It is nothing to do with Rebello, but they do know how to take care of it if you want them to.

If you have the money, try Rebello Racing in Pacheco/Pleasant Hill. My wallet took a hit, but everything runs extremely well.

TAP plastics. They don't have the carbon/kevlar mix, but they do carry both uni-directional composite and cross weave. I've heard US Composites is another good place to get stuff. http://www.uscomposites.com

Actually they do execute. A guy on the SVT forums works for an industrial truck company that has an exclusive contract with Coates Engines for their big diesels. I'll look up the name of the company. You can order a motorcycle from Coates that will be out at the end of the year. I believe it's a Harley V-Twin with a set of Coates heads on it. I wasn't sure at first, as my bs meter went off, but as I started to go through there site things became more believable. When they talk about spinning the motor up that high, they stated it would only do that with a properly prepared bottom end. The air flow change @ 5000RPM on the Lincoln motor is immense. I'll see what else I can find.

I had some a**hole cop pull right in front of me. I was going straight and he just makes a right turn right in front. I almost hit him. I should've honked, but I was afraid of the consequences. He didn't have his lights flashing, so I know he wasn't on a call and he did this when I was the only car for at least 200 yards both ways.

RPM limit???What RPM limit? It's probably based on the capabilities of the bottom end, a drop off point in efficiency of the rotary valves, or the flow capabiles of the head itself. In one of the articles, they said this: "Since horsepower is defined as work over time, the CSRV allows for an extremely high rpm potential. Test run at Coates' facility have seen a Ford 5.0 liter engine spin to 14,750 rpm! Though the CSRV removes the valvetrain rpm limitations, the need to have a rotating assembly that can withstand the engine speed becomes the essential element. Another benefit of this design is the extended oil change intervals, with the lubricating system not being exposed to the rigors and pollution from the poppet valve." About the power potential: "Where the CSRV really shines is in its airflow potential compared to a poppet valve Bench-marking a 5.0 L engine from a Lincoln, the stock Ford casting (when tested at 28 inches of H2O) flowed approximately 180 cfm on the intake port at static. The rotary valve for the engine in comparison flowed a whopping 319-cfm at the same test pressure. Equipped with the poppet valve head, the Lincoln engine dynoed at 260 hp and 249 lb.-ft of torque. When equipped with the CSRV head at the same 5,500 rpm test protocol, it made 475 hp and 454 lb.-ft of torque, with no changes to the block or rotating assembly: The higher power was a result of diminished frictional and pumping losses, but the inherent airflow benefit of the spherical valve was the major contributor. With a conventional poppet valve, it can take 34 degrees of crankshaft rotation or more to reach a fully open position, wasting energy and limiting volumetric efficiency. With the CSRV, a comparable port area is exposed in only 2 degrees of crank rotation. The CSRV allows for superior surface flow coefficients from its spherical shape. With the standard 4-inch Ford bore, the factory poppet valve covers only 15.8 percent of the total bore area, while the rotary valve is measured at 20.5 percent." And for others interested in alternative valvetrain design, try this: http://www.sixstroke.com/pageone.htm

They are currently used in heavy industrial use. The new-age Mustang guys (4.6L OHC design) are really pushing them to produce a set of heads. The 4.6L would actually fit in a Z, because the heads are so much smaller by the looks of it. I bet you could even fit a 5.0L or 5.4L cammer in there, making some insane amounts of power. No more worrying about adjusting timing to compensate for the time it takes to open a valve. Everyone should email them to push along an aftermarket set for a Ford. Don't forget that they are producing a V-Twin Harley type bike with these rotary valves. SOOOOOO sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check this out: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52391

I'm mainly regurgitating what I've been told by some fiberglass and cf people. The epoxy or vinyl ester (which provides more heat protection, because it breaks down at a much higher temp than the epoxies I know of). I'll see what I can find in some books, but I'm pretty sure the UV can do damage to at least the color.

I'd start with the front splitter and the small front under tray as said before by those who posted before me. I'd then figure out how to route the air coming in through the front on the outsides of the radiator to smooth out the flow. The trick, as I understand it, is to get the flow under the car moving quicker than the flow over the top of the car (It may be the opposite. I always forget.). If you are looking to do all this, I'd also take a shot at reducing drag too. Get rid of those drip rails, new mirrors, and maybe even a full bellypan EDIT: Checked out Ron Tyler's site and found the double wishbone setup. Guess I better read everything before posting.

I want to warn you all that a CF hood will break down under UV rays if it is not painted. The clear coat, either epoxy or vinyl ester (I doubt they'd use straight polyester), does not protect the CF from UV rays. The color could fade and at worst, the CF could break down (I'm not sure about this one, this is just a guess). You should definitely ask what type of weave they use (whoever you are buying from) and if they use any fiberglass in there. The fiberglass is not a bad thing, but it depends of the price. For anything over $1000, it better be, IMO, almost all CF and extremely light. To my knowledge, the Carbon/Kevlar hybrid weaves are the strongest. They offer great impact resistance and other great properties. The color may not be the most appealling though. I recently read an article about a business that builds different hoods. They added a CF backbone to the hood and it was so strong they could drive over the hood with a car. The hood survived the abuse and was looking for more.

Sorry this took so long, but I finally found the article on the web for the '03 driveline. http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/events/0306_mmff_cobra/index.html If you look at Jim D'Amore's car, he uses an entirely stock driveline, except for a better clutch and shifter, and runs into the 10's. This is old news though, so I'm going to see if I can find any of the street cars that are into the 9's.

Depends on the 327, your rear gears, and your tires