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Hm. I'll probably just run the '78 alt and convert the wiring to run the internal regulator. What would you recommend doing about the coil ballast? I've never had to mess with that before

About to pick up a '76 to work on for this girl, has a '78 l28, bone stock, motor runs for sure. I know the car it came out of. It has the '78 ecu as well, but is missing the engine wiring harness. Question #1: Which wiring harness should I use? '78 or '76? The coil harness that runs under the core support has been cut halfway across the core support. Question #2: Should I cut the coil harness off a '76 or a '78 for the '78's coil? Thanks! I figure either engine harness would work, as well as the coil, but I want to make sure before I dig in to it. The girl that came to me about it needs it running soon, so I'll probably end up just fixing it for free.

When I first put my coils on, which gave a rough 6 - 8 inch drop, I had like six degrees in the front. Surprising the rear wasn't too bad, about 3-4. After camber plates I'm around -4 front and -2 or -3 in the back.

I thought about going with these on mine, I'd be running a spacer to fit the flares anyway, but I wasn't fond of the inset look. Plus I wanted 10's instead of 9's

Thanks! Haven't measured the camber yet, just eyeballed it to be even on each side and fit the flares. Waiting on an alignment until I can get LCA's. Estimating around -4 front and -2 or -3 in the rear. I was wondering about the center bore as well, good to know that. 16" tires aren't too expensive, you can find Federals or Falkens in a 205/45 fairly easily. EDIT: here's a link to both http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/federal/205%252F45-16+federal+ss-595+83v+bsw.html http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/falken/205%252F45-16+falken+ziex+ze-912+87v+bsw.html Don't know if you plan on tracking it at all, but I've drifted on both and they're both great tires. And the 912's stretch very nicely.

Pretty sure I saw your car in this months Import Tuner. Just out of curiosity, why're you running Azenis? Track use or are you just baller like that haha

Definitely following this. RS's are some of my all time favorite wheels. Very classy, I'd love to pick up a set for mine. I don't exactly know what your taste in stretch is, but personally a 205 on a 9 looks good in my opinion, and a 225 on a 10 is also tasteful. Honestly a 245 isn't going to stretch much on a 10. I'm running 205/50's all the way around on my 10's, but with a 16 and a lower sidewall you might want to increase the treadwidth a good 20cm. Just my take, you might want to try rimtuck.com for more examples of tire sizing. Just for an idea, here's what my 205's look like on 10's.

I'm sorry, I missed the part where a stock VQ35 can 'smoke the Lambo kids'.

What's ground clearance?

It'll also run on two cylinders.... don't ask me how I know

Hm ok. The only s13 coils I can find with rear pillowballs are Powered By Max, know of any others?

After having coilovers for a few months, I'm wondering if my pillowball mounts are really necessary in the rear. In the fronts, when the wheels turn to the right or left, the whole shock actually pivots on the monoball, so I can see it's necessary for the front. But in the rear, that never really happens. Is it really necessary? Either way, I'm running T3 camber plates all the way around which incorporate monoballs into their plates.

I made my own brackets when I did the 240 bumper conversion, just drilled new holes in the bumper support. Used grade 8 bolts, but strength isn't too big of a deal, considering the 240 bumper really isn't going to stop anything anyway.

It's not running a ZX alt now though, part number is for a '78.

Well, went through the wiring harness, got a new alternator, bypassed my aftermarket fuse block, still had the same problem. But found out yesterday while this riced out Civic was trying to pull on me (I may or may not have responded), that over 5k rpms the alternator kicks on. My voltage was low as usual, around 10-11 volts, and as soon as I hit 5kish, shot up to 16 volts. Had a voltage tester in the car, and since my battery is currently in my passenger side floorboard, I tested it and came out at 14 volts. Tried this a couple other times during the day, and worked as well. Basically, when I turn my car on, my alternator isn't working. As soon as I rev up, it kicks on. Weird huh?

A guy at CCM:13 had these on his 240z. Didn't look like he was running spacers, looked like 9's in the back and 8's in the front, under stock metal. Didn't get a chance to talk to him though.

That makes sense. It would make perfect sense for the alternator to not be working, but this is the second alt I've tried and they've both tested fine. So if that was the case, it would have to be the circuit going from the output of the alt back to the battery, for charging. If I'm correct, the wire goes out of the alt, to a fusible link, which goes to the starter, which goes back to the battery. Would I be better off just going straight from the fusible links to the battery? It's obviously losing voltage somewhere along the way.

Nice! Whole car looks great.

Nice! I like how the rears look finished. Mine aren't nearly that pretty.

Hm I'll try that! Thanks for the detail. A buddy of mine has a multimeter, so I'll be getting to work on that. Edit: just out of curiosity, what is the .035 amp draw from? The clock should be the only thing recieving power when the car is off, correct?

Battery is draining completely dead about every two days. The first day after I charge it it'll run fine, the second day if I turn on the headlights, turn signals, or brake lights the car will die from voltage drop. Only mods to the battery assembly is a Maxi Fuse conversion and a battery relocation to the hatch. I'm using 4g wire for the battery relocation, running from the pos on the battery to the starter, and the neg on the battery to the engine block. I'm running the positive for the Maxi Fuse block from the starter straight to the fuse box. Haven't messed with the four white/red wires coming out of the fuse box. The only place there could be a drain is at the fuse block. I'm not sure where, but that's really the only place it could be. My other theory is that the alternator isn't charging the battery. I know the alternator is good, but I'm not sure if it's putting out to the battery. Any suggestions? I'm taking tomorrow off to work on it, if it comes down to it I'll just put the battery back in the engine bay and hardwire everything in. Really don't want to do that, but if I gotta bypass everything I'll do it.

PPK, you running 10"s in front now? Last I saw, you were still running 8"s in front.

It'll be extremely to find a set of 505's in those sizes.

Car looks good Stivva! What suspension are you running? IMG_5024 by BENZO*MEDIA, on Flickr

I did the maxi fuse conversion about 3 years ago lol, big improvement. But the fuses/relays that were all located on the passenger side engine bay are now relocated to the inside of the firewall on the passenger side. Cleans up the engine bay and is still located in a fairly convenient spot. I didn't have a wire running straight from the alt to the battery, I'm guessing the white/red wire coming off the alt goes to the 80a fuse, which then goes to the battery. Looks like my problem was a bad alternator AND battery, causing no good at all. I'm going to be late to work but hopefully the parts will be in at O'Reillys in an hour or so.