alexideways

Nice, thanks a bundle!!!

:burnout:Well, don't be sorry, it's a very good step ahead for me, thank you very much. :So, is the R32 diff. that you have, basicaly a CLUTCH type version of the Q45 VLSD???

You mean RB20DET, there never was an SR20, or any 4 cyl., in the Z line, IIRC. Thanks for the info. on the production runs.

I'm already planning on doing that. I already have the clutches. The main reason for this whole idea, is to have it asymmetrically reramped to get a more aggressive lock-up on acceleration that deceleration.

If I just overlooked this when I SEARCHED, please just point me toward the right tread. :If indeed it's not mentioned anywhere, does the short nose, R200 CLSD from the R32 GTR have a different spline count as the one from the >04/87 Z31??? :I've read somewhere else that the short nose CLSD came in both 5 & 6 bolt flanges, is this true??? I was under the assumption that the GTR's CLSD had the 6 bolts and the GTS-T's VLSD had the 5 bolts, am I wrong here??? :Do the 5 & 6 bolts have different spline count??? :Last, but not least, If they indeed have different spline count, will the clutches that I bought from Savage42 fit the R32 CLSD??? Thanks Alex.

Hi, just wanted to know if the 200ZR have had the same years of production as the Z31 300Z??? Thanks.

Good, cause I don't like the truck itself. Speaking of which, I've seen on a carrier truck, along with an M3 and a 135 2 door, when the truck came to where I work, before they headed to the Montréal Car show. The truck driver even let us start the M3. I know it's out of price, but if you want an exotic sounding V8, wait 'till you hear that son of a b.... I would have liked to hear the X6 & the 135, but they were on the upper deck of the carrier.

The truck or the engine???

That's the new X6 engine.

What are those little square thingies??? Do they hole the panels from underneith to keep them lined up or are they just to keep a contant gap all around the panel??? Where do you get these from?? Thanks.

Wow, it was about time you removed the carpeting, did you see all that mildew?? Look at the size of those mushrooms. It's all aluminum? That's why it's riveted in place instead of welded??? I like this idea of cross members a lot, might as well do it at the same time as my bad dog rails.

Maybe, but I'd agree with Mr Mortensen, it the builder seems to have taken a few random points on the chassis and tied them to nothing. It's a bit like if you have a bike wheel with 8 spokes and you wanted to make it stronger, but instead of adding spokes between the existing ones, you'd just weld a piece of flat stock around the inside circumference, the small advantage you'd gain on rigidity, would be largely overcome by the added weight penalty. If that makes any sense, I'm not an expert, but it seems logical to me. I'd agree with that, that's the kind of thing, quite more elaborate in this case, that you see on OEM's to give the chassis a bit of compression strength after they've cut off the roof to make it into a convertible. But even that is not enough. I learned it the hard way once, at ford, where I worked as a tire guy. This is the other guy on the lift next to me, who waited after wheels left the ground to let me know, "You should unlatch the top from the windshield with these Stangs dude". Me, "why is that???". I quickly understood why... Heard a weird ripping sound, lowered the car ... The roof was torn, across the whole width, right behind the windshield, while the other idiot was laughing, "Ha ha ha, I knew this was going to happen!!! Ha ha ha..." Instead of letting me know before I lifted the car. What an A-hole, I would have swung my 1/2 drive torque wrench at his stupid face. Luckily, he got the crap for not telling me. Sorry for the tread jack, you may proceed.

That the first thing I thought when I saw the Subaru pics, "Why didn't they tie both sides together???" That's very nice, I like the idea, I guess if it was to be made out of aluminum, it wouldn't weight to much. Do you have an aproximation of how much your's weight??? Thanks.

If you don't already have one, get an LSD, it does wonders in the snow.

Try this and you'll never have problems, bleeding anything, ever again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Phoenix-Injector-V-12-Brake-Clutch-REVERSE-Bleeder_W0QQitemZ150203684907QQihZ005QQcategoryZ43989QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You don't see that every day, a backyard mechanic with a smoke machine...

That would not be as bad as it used to be... If there's no cam above the valve stem, holding it open, if the piston was to touch the valve, the valve would go back in its hole pretty quickly. And if any damage occurred to the valve, you'd just open the cover, remove the damaged valve "unit", drop a new one in... As a bonus, in the system I'm referring to, the valves swing aside instead of being pushed in the chamber, so there's absolutely no chance of contact.

Here`s the one I bought: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=350008188780&_trksid=p3984.cWON.m313.lVI

Ok then, thanks for the pointer, It just seemed like a fun project, since one friend just bought a new welder and an other one has access to a complete engineering school machine shop, but if it's waisted efforts, we'll keep those efforts for something else.

Check these out... http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Fairlady-240Z-Key-Chain-keychain-240-Z-Datsun-gy_W0QQitemZ350011252741QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50431QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Fairlady-240Z-Z-L-Key-Chain-keychain-Datsun-silv_W0QQitemZ350011469650QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50431QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Fairlady-280Z-T-Key-Chain-keychain-280-240-Z-ZT_W0QQitemZ350012016541QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50431QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Fairlady-Z-300ZX-Z31-Key-Chain-keychain-300-ZX-B_W0QQitemZ350012319348QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50431QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Fairlady-350Z-Key-Chain-keychain-ring-silver-Z33_W0QQitemZ350011776172QQihZ022QQcategoryZ50431QQcmdZViewItem

I bought a whole Z31, minus the shell for $500 just to get the diff, cause the guy only wanted to sell as a whole, so I have no production date, but from the tag on the dash, I know it's an 87 turbo and it did have the CLSD. By the way, if you ever need any parts for the Z31, let me know, everything is for sale exept for the diff & axles.

By "real", I mean one that came from the factory with the thicker clutch pack and more aggressive ramp... If yes and if you have it on a bench, would it be possible to get the measurement of the cross pin (length, diameter & angles at top & bottom ) and ramp (depth, angle and width of the opening)??? I'd like to weld up my ramps and have them machined in the more aggressive style and also have a new cross pin machined out of tool steel... Thanks. Alex.

The one to use.

Ok, when you look at the distributor from the top, with securing bolt in the position it would be if it was mounted to the engine, it should be the top one. Let me know, as I'm unsure, when I pulled the L24 from the Z, I disassembled everything and now, for some reason, both wires are hanging loose. I had tied up the unused one with a tie-wrap, don't know what happened to it!?!?!?!?

Was the car you picked it up from an automatic?? Cause, IIRC, the second pick up is used in the automatic cars as a static timing for when the car is on "PARK", I did the same as you, used HEI and got the twin pick up distributor I don't remember which one was which though, I'll try to find it in my pile of, now useless, L24 parts to see which one I used.