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HybridZ

alexideways

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Everything posted by alexideways

  1. Well, I don't think so, because the 510 is a 1968-73 model and never came equipped with anything less that a 1.6L. This thing is a 1967 and is powered by a 1.3L.
  2. Well, has the title implies... http://lespac.com/search/detail.php?PHPSESSID=67aaa1ec45e356ab8707a40497c53cdc&infst=RK_5647039%3B&cp=50&region=&gr=12&majalerte=&a=5647039&o=%2Fsearch%2Findex.php&r=1651&liste_ville=&listcmp=&parindex=0&page=2&total=15&nbrpages=2&visite_recherche=&categorie_titre=%5BV%E9hicules+-+Antiques%2Fcollection%5D&idcookie=6a87c915bfe84faa6a190d04c4a20e5a&zc=50&zg=12&orderby=distance&mots=datsun&distancemax=0&agemax=0&liste_region=&catgr=c50-12&R11_de=0&R11_a=&R11=&prix_de=0&prix_a=0&annee_de=0&annee_a=0&no_region_de=0&no_region_a=&no_region=&R19_de=0&R19_a=&R19=&R13_de=0&R13_a=0&R12=0&R16=0&R14=0&R15_de=0&R15_a=0&R18=0&R07_de=0&R07_a=0&R06=0&R17=0&type=0&etat=0 Thanks!
  3. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115833 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77962 Start with those...
  4. It doesn't have both for sure, for having seen Lancia's rally car (not in real life), HKS's first gen. MR2 and one MINI COOPER S, there sure ain't enough piping in there to be a twin charger...
  5. I'll have to check in my boxes for the exact months and issue numbers but, there was at least one that I can remember of in Grassrootmotorsport and one of the best looking Zs, in my opinion, was Bill Coffey's in an old SportcompactCar. I'm pretty sure that if you look in ClassicMotorSport, GrassRoot's sister publication, you'll find quite a few. IIRC, I think they even have a project Z... (not 100% positive on that though)
  6. I don't know if we'll get the diesel versions but, it could be a nice set-up as the 320D in europe is the fastes in the 3 series at the moment. We had a meeting the other day on the futur of our work load as mechanics and were told that we MIGHT have the diesels too, not at first but one or two years later.
  7. Where the hell does he see t-tops on that car????
  8. OHHHHHH YEAHHHH!!!!!!!!! Especialy with an ALL WHITE harness:banghead: I think Nissan itself tried that for one model year, an all white harness with the actual color of the wires printed in black on the white wire, imagine trying to figure this out after that harness sat there for a few years, all the glue from the tape collected the dust and when you try to wipe it off, you just sand the prints away... What a good idea.
  9. Is there actually someone paying $1000 for a rock??? Or is it just part of the joke???
  10. I think he has a harness that has all connectors but, not sure of what he means by "lacking" the pigtails... If it's only because there are soldered wires over the said pigtails or if the guy just cut the pigtails and wired straight inside the lamps and switches and the likes... That green Z in your sig. is very nice by the way!!!
  11. Well, I have many friends with pierced noses and none of them had there nose bleeding after the piercing and the pin does go trough the skin on each sides but, I have to agree that a fork might not be the ideal tool to go trough skin without damage and there would probably be a lot of blood involved. But as Cygnus and I said the nose tissues aren't designed to support the whole weight of your body and if the first point of impact is the fork's handle and it happens to, who knows why, be in your nose at the time, most of the blood would have come from the fact the the nose tissues would have separated from the rest of the face... On the "after" pictures in naviathan's link, you see no traces of injuries around the nose, not even on the wall between nostrils, which could not have escaped unharmed and I know for sure that with just a little, well placed hit on the nose, you get 2 nice shiners under each eye. Plus, the exit wounds seems a bit to clean for this kind of injury, unless Mom spends her spare time sharpening the cutlery
  12. For 1ZCARFAN... I have a guy near by where i live who specialises in Z parting, I can check if he has an 72 harness for you, if you're interested, I could then ship it to you... Let me know by PM. EDIT: I just reread your post, if your concern is the fact that the moron soldered the wires directly to the pigtails, it's fairly easy to solve, time consuming but not hard... Just take you soldering iron and reheat the solder, pull the wire out of the solder and reheat it again. Then, with a Scott towel or something like it, just wipe the melted solder off the pigtail, you'll get brand new, freshly tamed, oxide free pigtails...
  13. Take a look at the diagram I made on my post a bit earlier (#43) Where you see the "shunt", this is a connector that just loops around and it's used by the dealership to plug a factory style timing light, you could probably tap your signal from there... It's a big white wire that goes from your coil plug, attached on the rear of the coil cover, trough a splice, to a white connector with a little black box plugged on it that doesn't seem to have any purpose...
  14. An other trick we used on a friend's car, came straight from the "show car" guys. It's a clear coat but, it's satin/flat in appearance once dry so, you can use whatever primer you think works best for you (we just went with cheap duplicolor black primer, since it was a temporary job) and then seal it with the satin clear, the effect is total old school but, is protected from the sun and its U.Vs. and doesn't scratch like bare primer... On an other note, if you powdercoated all the side window trim, you should do the same for the front and rear glass trims, it would look just plain sinister in all black...
  15. Just sell that giant snail on e-bay and with the money, buy something that will suit your need... Just think of what you want and the parts you'll NEED to achieve it and then, choose a turbine accordingly... Don't try to just DO with what you already HAVE cause, it's probably going to end up all wrong... My $0.02.
  16. I must admit that the nose might no bleed that much from the puncture in the cartilage itself but, as cygnus said, if you fall face first with a fork in your nose, chances are that you'll rip said nose right off your face...
  17. Yeah, me too, is that a 2+2 feature or did you do this yourself????
  18. I can attest that the 200zr mounts WILL let you close the hood but, as stated by Zdrifter, it places the engine a little too high & forward for "IDEAL" weight distribution but, for a street car, it's not that bad as it makes the car less prone to over-steer.
  19. But, $1100 is a lot for a short block, not shipped, that will have to be rebuilt anyways... They sell for anywhere around $100 Aus. and it's about $400 U.S. for shipping for 4 engines on a pallet (It's not more expensive to ship 4 blocks on a pallet than only one. I understand that you had to have it shipped to the U.S. of A. but, if I can give one piece of advice for the future, sell the engine first and have it shipped directly to the buyer, everybody will save this way...
  20. If you're going to store them standing up, make sure you place tightly fitted blocks of woos between the counterweights, as the weight of the crank itself can make it warp over time... My $0.02. I've not experience this myself, it's just something I learned in my mechanics class.
  21. With well adjusted rear brakes and 4 pistons up front you'll have an adequate brake set-up. A well proportioned and new stock brake system (with a good pad/shoe compound) could pull the fillings out of your teeth. It is a well spread misconception that discs "brakes" better than drums. Drums just don't stand heat as much (and are slower to cool down, which can be a good feature on a street car with agressive pad compound)since they tend to soak it in but, for a car as light as a Z on the streets, the rear drums should be enough. I've seen race car equipped with stock Z systems (due to rules) that could outbreak way more modern machinery, equipped with top end 4 discs systems.
  22. Nice work there... And don't forget, the secret to a perfect roast is time... I would suggest that you put the burners on high for the first hour and then, turn it down a bit and let it rev. about 700 times on a 4 hours span and you should have that thing to medium rare... Add a few well chosen spices along the way and you'll have the best dinner of your life. Wait a minute here, I thought that was a lamb... Sorry, my mistake.
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