alexideways

That thing looks like a fighter jet cockpit...

You mean when one of us sinner HybridZer rip off everything that originally came on the car and replace it with something else???

What a FUC#ING MORON... He thinks this is ART!!!! He should get hung on a public place for that.

I sure would like to try Factory 5's Daytona Coupe kit...

I just contacted a FLOCKING company near where I live and they quoted me between $50-100 to completely flock my dash board in a suede like finish... That could be a very cheap and easy solution for those of us who are looking to cover our dashes with suede or Alcantara... Just wanted to share... Thank Bchappy.

I heard horse meat is a lot richer in proteins than beef... that Z of yours is sure going to grow some serious muscles, cause you ate a lot of Ford's ponies on that track LOL. Poor little Mustangs... Is that car equipped with a Star Wars style tractor beam or what??? You're reeling them in like they where on neutral, even the Vette, GT and the KIT Cobra... Awesome!!!!!

Well, 5000 miles without incidents??? Your car certainly lives up to your screen name... Congrats...

.

.The 2 first ones are where my harness is routed now, the last one is where the harness was originally routed... I don't have a pic of my OBD2 plug as I didn't have the chassis side of the harness. I just tagged and regrouped the wires. Now I have to take the plug from an extra Silvia harness that I have lying around and crimp new terminals so I can just slide them in the connector for a factory look. By the way, I made a mistake, I meant to say DIAGNOSTIC PLUG and not OBD2 plug, as it's a Nissan 14 +16 plug not an OBD... One last thing, if you do route your harness like that, make sure you wrap it in heat and abrasion resistant looming...

Correct me if I'm wrong, (I don't really know the KAAZ) but I think that the main difference between the KAAZ and the Z31 unit, is that the KAAZ uses friction material on their clutch pack, which tend to wear off, thus the frequent recommended oil changes. + If you ride the car hard, that means having to replace the clutches every now and then...

The only downfall I can see to this, is the demand, but I guess that since you live in the U.S. there is a way bigger market than here in Canada. What I would do is, like you said, buy one, build it and drive it around to create hype and demand, take orders and build cars as needed at first. Once you get up and running and you've made a name for yourself, people will come to see YOU instead of you trying to find buyers... My $0.02, as I've thought of doing something like you say, but I think the market potential is not high enough here in Canada...

Once you managed to put a manifold on the engine, you could always bring the car back to the exhaust shop, I don't think that they'd charge you that much just to take care of 2 seized bolts... Or you could always tack weld the exhaust together and grind it off and fix it once you're home...

Either the coil or igniter are bad or whatever (I say whatever cause, you didn't specify what ignition your car is using but, from your screen name, I'd say your car uses a pick up coil & reluctor) is supposed to trigger your primary isn't working. Check the pick up coil's signal lines between the distributor and the igniter and the line between the igniter and the neg. side of the coil. Also check if your igniter is getting power. Also check for continuity in the pick up coil... Check for continuity trough both stages of your coil and also check their resistance... For the primary, you should get something between 0.45 & 0.55 Ohms For secondary, you should get a reading between 8.5 & 12.7 Ohms If your car is equipped with the stock coil...

Ok, stupid me... I just reread your first post and also saw from your Avatar that you live in Washington so, I guess you're in Oregon, that's a bit further than I thought...

Portland Oregon or Main??? if it's Main, I could send you mine by express mail, it's for an E88 head and I have no use for it, you could just send me a check, whenever your able to, for the shipping costs and consider the manifold as a gift... I live just north of the Canadian boarder so, it could get to you very quickly...

Maybe you should also think about replacing those front tires, before something even worst happens...

LOL, I like that, let us know how it turns out...

That sucks...

I'm really sorry to hear that, I can't really help you but, I know what I would do to cheer myself up... I would drive back to this guy's place and dump my broken L28 on his front lawn with a little note on it : "NOW, YOU HAVE A REAL L28 TO GET RID OF LOL"

Thanks guys, keep it coming...

I first started by unwrapping the whole harness. Using a connector terminal kit (you can also use sowing needles) I removed every unused terminals from their connectors... Where they were spliced wires that were going nowhere in MY car, I cut the wire directly at the splice... I also decided early on that I wanted a functional OBD2 plug in my car so, I wired accordingly... All I have left to do is to install the engine, feed the harness trough the firewall and locate the ECCM, when this is done, I'll cut the harness to length and CRIMP it back together... After that, I'll pull the harness out of the car one more time, going to wrap it with something yet to be determined and put it back in for the last time for a complete stock look. No wires hanging about randomly... I also routed the engine harness between the intake and head, which shortened the harness a good deal and makes it practically invisible... It is always best if everything shares a common ground point, block, tranny., starter, altern. and head straight on the BATT. - but, that makes that much more wiring to route and must use an pretty expensive, big wire gauge... There are some cheap "common groud kits" for sale on E-bay that could do the job

I can't tell for sure about the ZX as I've never even been inside one but, it could still be the switch, as MOST with of the cars, the signals for the pass. side window goes trough (gets power from and puts to ground trough) the driver's MASTER switch... Otherwise, it could be the power line that is cut in the driver's door jamb... Check if you have voltage at the switch itself...

Let me guess: you have to jump on your right foot exactly 23 times while going around the car, while at the same time signing the Alphabet in German backwards, all of this after having pulled about a 100 switches and levers in the correct order, while holding your breath and praying the God of cars for it to start and then, turning the key at the right speed while pressing the clutch and gas pedals at correct angles???? Certainly looks like that... LOL

Yeah, I know, I already posted this one somewhere else on this forum but, I can't get enough of it... If I get this car, this is probably what it'll end up like... Minus the S1 ubër rare shortened chassis. http://5cylinder.com/main.htm This is John Dahlback (don't know if the spelling is right) the guy who built the 5 cyl. 4WD 900 HP Golf IV with the intercooler and rad. in the trunk...

Good lord!!!! That thing looks awfully involving to drive...