dj paul

The actual loose nuts in the body side of the transmission mounts are stripped out. I am referring to the protrusions in the transmission tunnel that have those nuts in them. This is on a 71 240Z. I have a few ideas but all would seem to take too long and I'm just wondering what most people do when this happens. My searches have been fruitless. Thanks in advance.

240sx IRS Photobucket This should help anyone wanting to do the 240SX IRS swap. I have lost the measurements. I believe Maichor (spelling?) was the one who inspired me to do this. He did a vella rossa spider replica. If i see a big response, ill remeasure everything and post.

I was just wondering what would technically be the best setup. I can't seem to find the post but there is a picture of someone using the stock crossmember to mount the sr20. Would using these stock mounting location with custom mounts on the front of the motor be ok? or would using something like the mckinney motorsports package be better? Im guessing ease of install would be better with the mckinney or vildini package. Im just making sure no major problems could arise from this since i havent seen the stock mounts used much.

Thats awesome!. Anyways just to clear something up quick. you dont need high octane for 9.5-1 (unless your turbo it with that for some reason) you can still use 87-89. I would try something like gogriz said. There are tons of Zs in GA you could use, but i can never throw away Z parts. You could also number the parts as well and keep a sheet seperate to see what "lawn ornaments" (parts) the numbers are. Plus taking it apart helps you learn just that much more of the layout of the L motor. You will mess something up or break a bolt that you wish you did something different on (i still do all the time). So at that point its not a big loss and you can use the knowledge for a motor you get in GA. Definately worth a try! I may have rambled there for a second but i read it again and it at least made sense to me (not saying much)

so you do have a 280ZXT? With the 300zx ECU you need the MAF and the Dizzy internals. If you dont have the turbo motor, you need to switch out the oil pump drive shaft for a l28et one and then swap the internals. You also have to swap some wiring around, there are writeups. Your car is automatic? Do you like automatic? just wondering why your keeping it. (sorry i despise auto trannys) If your really wanting everything for this car, get ARP head bolts. Once fully torqued down, head bolts slightly warp, not giving you the same torque specs. Dont worry about intake manifold yet untill you get more into everything. Intake, downpipe and vacuum boost controller would be a good start. Oh and the rear end housing and gears is reffered to as the differential.

definately fix the crushed portion of the pipe and smooth out the transition from the flanges to the tubes! those things look rough in there. I'd think those insanely rough edges and "shelves" of transition in there would cause almost as much flow trouble as the crushes themselves. Besides that, $300 is not bad, even if u had to cut the whole thing up, the forming and bends themselves would cause u enough trouble to cost that. just to point out to the others here, the flash of the camera even cast a shadow of that rough edge towards the bottom end of the leftmost exhaust tube.

well you know what i mean. even though there are lots of different applications, sizes, shapes they list the same pressure drops through these. Im just wondering if anyone has one and has measured this or has some feedback on it.

Ebay intercooler These look good overall. Bar plate design, read reviews from guys that didn't know any technical stuff but said it worked great. I was wondering, anyone verified the pressure drop on these? They state .05kg/cm2 at 1.2kg/cm2 of boost (which is .72psi drop at 17.1psi)

from looking at all you've tested, the most likely reason for your car not starting is the cold start injector which is controlled by the thermotime switch. I spliced in a switched nine volt battery to mine because i was having the same problem. If Im not right, you've only wasted 15-20 minutes. Oh and do not pay 1500 for a L series motor unless it has an aftermarket rebuild or something (forged pistons etc) You can always find running motors for under few hundred if not free. For 1500 you could buy a red top sr20

i know the guy who runs bluegrass muffler. there is a slight chance if people want to buy a lot of them i can get them a little cheaper per unit.

Unless your going to be putting more power down or you just want to do it just because it would be cool (i know ive done that) i would probobly use the stock R200 and maybe get upgraded half shafts. it would only be about $300 i think and way less work. Then if you break those, you could go ahead with the solid axle setup. The only other thing i could see is going ahead and spending the money to get a locker setup, since any quality locking setup for racing using the R200 carrier is over $800 anyways, i believe. If this is what your looking for though, you could always get a suburu rear end, you just change the output flanges and youve got a viscous locking diff for under $50. I can get back to you on what years and models this diff came on.

i second just cutting the rust out and welding sheet metal. Thats the best route. I ordered totally new floor pans for my first Z and soon discovered i could have done the same thing with sheet metal after cutting them up so many times.

should be in the instructions for the dizzy you were ordering. If not, there are diagrams at autozone.com. I cant remember on mine because i ripped everything out. Set a hooked up spark plug on the valve cover, when you crank the engine it will spark. Also check and make sure if the ignition module (little black box on the side of dizzy) is grounded well. But if youve already taken off the new dizzy to go back to the points i guess just check the wiring at autozone.

Sorry to not be clear. Im not saying there needs to be another bar here, that would be unnesassary to very little gain. Im talking about the shear horizontal load, i was in a hurry and didnt mean to word it like i did. the box you are talking about will do just fine, i was simply wondering if that portion of the cage had plans to change. By the way, the cage looks great if i didn't mention it before.

Did you change this since this picture? i didnt get a chance to look through and see. I think i saw a picture where it was different but i cant remember. Im assuming your going to be running a bar perpindicular to this or something because this will not support the load of a rollover, it will just go right through the floor. Im pretty sure you know that, but i just wanted to be 100% Edit: I would place a decent thickness steel plate on the floor itself, and put a small piece of pipe to extend it to that plate, to spread out the load. Maybe even a piece of angled steel up against the floor and the rails. (cant remember the real name for them ATM)

What motor should I use in my 240Z? (Money is an issue) ,Rb25DET,L28ET,SR20DET Im definately leaning towards the RB25DET. I have an L28ET already built but i kind of want to put it in my 280ZX. I was just wanting to see what everyone voted.

if your happy with 225 then stick with this setup. that is one of the few times ive seen one of those and the only one ive seen that someone has at the present. there is a compression ratio calculator around here somewhere but i dont think your compression should be too high since you have dished(turbo) pistons. I think it would only be around 8.5 with your setup which is pretty much stock turbo CR. But if you do want more power, simply go with a bigger turbo and stock turbo exhaust manifold with better DP etc. since the CR is lower and it was designed for NA motor then that means you can turn up the boost to about 10-12 safely and even higher with a cheap cold start valve mod. (i think) lol

where are you in indiana? im in louisville. Anyways its probobly the injectors (my first guess), plugs, plug wires, or AFM. i would check it in that order. clean all injector connections really well and measure impedance. should be 3-4 ohms ( i think ) plug wires arcing out will also act like bad injectors, usually u can hear a little clicking noise, even on wires that look ok.

all z31 turbos had 5 lug. z31 non-turbo had 4 lug untill like 85. i want to find out also if you can use these hubs on s13-s14. i am going to go check out some 240sx forums and see what i can find.

sorry for the confusion of the writeup. I have never had this happen before. It was just a coincidence that the previous owner did some s**tty wireing and it grounded itself out at the same time i fixed everything else. Hate when that happens. I just pulled all the fuses 1 by 1 and relays untill the battery started recharging itself. (the short was making it instantly go to 0)

you pushing your gas pedal in and out while its cranking? people say this does not change anything but in fact it does... anyways faulty cold start valves/thermo time switch cause this in almost all 280z/zx's that ive seen that have been sitting for a while. even when the ambient temperature isn't "cold" at all. ive hooked a 9volt battery to mine so that it still uses stock system, but if needed i can give it more fuel. (which ive had to a couple times even in warm weather). also the AFM might need to be adjusted, but if it has that black sealant stuff all over it and you cant just pull it off, then its probobly never been fooled with before and i wouldnt touch it. Test the impedance of your injectors as well. Just use a voltmeter, resistance should be 3-4ohms (cant remember for sure). timing would do this too but it shouldnt be a problem unless some mentally challenged (or possibly drunk) person replaced your distributor the wrong way.

dude just bring it over to my house. i live in st. mathews ill fix it for you. i have 3 z's from diff generations and 2 have L28.

Hey guys, im fixing up and selling a junkyard 300zx. I got it running and was doing some maintenance and when i tried to start it up to move it the next day it was totally dead. When i was working on it, i put a new water pump in it and was putting all the associated belts and hoses back on and I tightened up steering pump and alternator. When i tighten up alternators i usually just find a good prying point that wont bend anything with a big screwdriver and tighten up the bracket. I remember i accidentally sparked it once with the screwdriver but i had done that before with other cars with no problems. When the car is jumped it starts fine and has a good charging voltage when the other car is disconnected, but as soon as you cut it off voltage goes to 0. and stays there (was testing this with multimeter) then when you take negative cable off the battery starts gaining volts like normal. Did i short something out with the alternator? Anyone done this before or have any other places to check in case it was a coincidence?

i did this, (i have a welder) took me about 4 hours. make sure u get gasket first. while your in there, go ahead and clean out intake manifold. make sure all mating surfaces are clean. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT use gasket maker you will have a major intake leak and your car will barely (if at all) run and you will have to do it all over again.

subframe is mounted and everything except the ebrake is ready back there. I will post pictures fairly soon ive just been really busy with work and school starting. Im in the process of searching but anyone have an easy fix to make the 240sx ebrakes work? i can figure it out but im just wondering.