DemonZ

LOL!! Those crazy animals. I can't stop wondering what the heck was going on. Did the person taking the pic startle them and they were getting up from the ground??? Is that dog spitting up milk??? Is that cat doing a flying kick??? Why are the dogs hind legs are sideways??? Man, I just gotta know.

Sorry OT, but.. why would they make it 3 piece for the Euro market. When assembled, the 3 pieces look virtually identical to the one piece, minus the connections. It would seem the 3 piece would be more costly, so why the difference?

Is it assumed the host does not want you to win and knows what are behind all doors? In other words, he will always: 1) open the non winner first (the empty one) 2) offer you a choice to switch your original choice OT, RE: manhole cover, besides not falling in, added benefits are: a round cover will seat in infinite positions, and you can roll it to move it.

try it back on high since it sounds like you have a 120V unit, and turn up the wire speed to max, you want good penetration. If you start blowing holes in your work, begin turning down the wire speed and work on your torch travel speed.

The Cannon runners are straight and longer than the Mikuni. The Mikuni runners are shorter with a kink in them. I spoke to a person named Steve at AEM about 10 years ago about them, and he referred to the Cannon "straight shot" having a 7-10 hp improvement on a tuned street NA motor vs. the "goose neck" Mikuni. I heard else where that the Mikuni had superior linkage though. As for bolt pattern to head, they are all the same.

linky no worky?

Greg you have mail

I have done it, but would not do it again. One break and it's for not. And that is exactly what happened to me . And I was pretty careful. On hindsight, saving a hundred bucks or so is just not worth it. Burn a couple hours, and a buddies time too, massaging dishwasher soap and extension cords.. (leaked afterwards cause the sealant couldn't get a bite through the residue/water that never really dried out of the channel). For this job, let a pro handle it. If he breaks it, he pays for it. If it leaks it's covered.

Sorry for the cross post. Too Freaky??? how hard would this be to mod? I think the GN is triggered by the cam position. That would be a PITA to do on an L. Problem is, there's a SpeedPro B2B ECM I have in mind, but it is set up for DIS from a GN, so I'm wondering how I could get this to work. Scottie, Greg, BLKMGK....anyone?

how hard would this be to mod? I think the GN is triggered by the cam position. That would be a PITA to do on an L. Problem is, there's a SpeedPro B2B ECM I have in mind, but it is set up for DIS from a GN, so I'm wondering how I could get this to work. Scottie, Greg, BLKMGK, ....anyone? TIA

a picture is worth a thousand words I have to reread some parts several times and I still don't know if I got the picture I hope someone can host the article soon. Thanks Katman.

does this pump (to the left) pose any problems for an EFI turbo setup of 400rwhp ? http://www.specialtauto.com/fuel-injection.shtml "At 12 volts, 60 GPH at 150 to 180 P.S.I. at shut off."--sounds juicey enough but what does "....at shut off" mean?

Katman, how about telling us what would make a good cage instead of what would not

wouldn't stainless make a better shield since it conducts heat less than aluminum?

Dave at Art Morrison told me they didn't have a cage kit for the Z. They did have some for Honda's and Mistubishi's go figur... prices are double for chro-mo, and around half the weight: 140#, $260 vs. 95#, $520. Katman, I'd appreciate the piece on rollcage design. I'll shoot you an email.

can anyone give me the regulations on SCCA rollcages?

Hi Peter, or um Larry.. Could you email them to me: louho@hotmail.com my fax software is on the fritz.... Thanks. I'm in Renton WA, it's about 15 miles south of Seattle. You near the Oregon boarder?

I want to put in my own rollcage with one of those Harbor Freight mandrel benders. The main reason is I don't think there is a pre-fabed one that meets both SCCA and NHRA certs. Soooo... I was wondering if anyone has the rulebook specs for roll cages. SCCA or NHRA ok I am cheap too. I plan to use seamless tubing .083 .... Guys with experience putting cages in please chime in with your tips, and "would have should have's" TIA

The Cartech piece is not a header. It is a modified turbo manifold set up for full TO4 flange. I believe some of the high cost of a turbo header is that a quality one will be out of SS. Regular mild steel will not hold up well under the heat of turbo abuse.

Beefy!!!! Are you running 245/45 -16's in front too? Is there any rubbing at max compression? Very nice looking

the paint stripper might clog in the fins if it comes off in blisters. Depends on how thick the paint is and what kind. If you are lucky, the stripper will partially liquify the old paint and will rinse right off. I'd test a small spot first...

What sounded like a broken u-joint turned out to be a busted stub axle. It looked just like the pic above. Changing the axle out was HELL ! I tried a wimpy Bondo slide hammer on the stud side at first.....then an air hammer on the broken side.....then a 2.5lbs baby sledge, but really couln't get a good swing with a car on jack stands. So finally, I took out the control arm so I could really give it a good whack with the "tree splitting maul" .. Took two stump splitting blows to knock mine out. When it came out the stub end was pretty mushroomed from all the abuse.

why is a mig welder a must? Oxy won't work, or tig?

RE: turbo pistons I believe the L28T pistons are cast also.

I didnt' read the article, but my 2 cents on the traction thingie is... given a wider tire, and everything else equal (circumference, tire compound) the wider tire will usually handle better because it has more time to cool IF overheated, thus staying within it's operating temp. So for each revolution, the wide/short patch is in contact with the road for less time than a long/ narrow patch. Even though the area/contact patch is the same for both, the wide/short patch is spending less time overheating and that much more time cooling down. In adverse weather a skinny tire "cuts" deeper into the snow and rain increasing your chances of pavement contact. And if you don't scratch pavement, the skinny tire has more directional control because it cuts, whereas a wide tire spreads out the load like a snow shoe or ski and ends up hydroplaning or skiing rather than scratching the pavement or carving a path. If you're on ice with rubber, then I don't think it really matters DOH ! Ummm....anyways, that's my story