DemonZ

Here in WA, it's about 7.5% TOTAL for residential RE. Listing agent usually splits half with buyer's agent. Then each agent has to split 50/50, 60/40, 70/30, etc... with their own brokerage they work for. Nothing is set in stone (until you sign the contract) and it's all negotiable, but that is pretty much what you'll find.

I have 3 different flywheel bolts. I'm guessing the T-13 bolts are from the turbo because the the head bolts share that designation. Can someone verify which ones are which? Also, how high is the risk of reusing these bolts, any bolt failure horror stories for the L6?

http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts.aspx/partfamilyid/1547/subcategoryid/161/categoryid/28 I want to James Bond my car.

Saw this on craigslist. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/149510778.html Got me thinking... What do you guys think? BTW, It's not mine.

looked like a

LOL... I need a break.

FWIW, I've used +10yr mild steel wire on and off with absolutely no issues.

The dryer circuit works fine for my single phase MIG 180, compressor, and plasma cutter. Just not all at once. It should work fine for your TIG.

Check if the spool hub is binding/moving freely. It should have just enough drag without it free wheeling. Check the tip for clearance?

How much did it cost? I did a search and I'm a bit confused, as TimZ once said it was less than half the cost of DF http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71439&highlight=timz+clutch and then in another post he said ~500 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72398&highlight=timz+clutch Was there another clutch inbetween I missed? Timz?? can you clarify? Either way I'm headed down the same route. Their web site is down though....

That looks like the ticket. The pressure type works much better than the syphon kind. Look into preventing inhilation of silica dust. It's really REALLY nasty stuff. It goes in the lungs and doesn't come back out. Buy the best respirator you can afford.

VERY tempting proposition. The Saturn Sky is crying for a transplant too!!

Nice! Open diff. no less. Your Holset set up has really piqued my interest. Is that on a stock motor internals? What's the driving/boost characteristics like?

in Garrett speak, what would the HY35W be comparable to, 60-1, or TO4E??

That actually sounds like a fair price for the amount of work you're having done. I would highly recommend having all the glass and trim off the car before paint. Are you going to have the doorjambs and engine compartment sprayed too? If your door seals are ok, you may want to paint just up to that point. New seals are pricey... The darker the color, the straighter the body work will have to be, and the more it will show dirt (seems counterintuitive but true). Silver shows the least dirt, but is hardest to color match (fender benders). Just go with your favorite color.

stupid question: what's the advantage of the Holset vs. t3/t4?

Relating to a cage's purpose: The pipe is made under controlled proccesses. Backyard welding introduces more vairiables like contamination, lack of fusion, etc... While a weld may often be stronger than the base metal, the point is, it's still subject to more uncontrolled proccessing (especially in the eyes of the governing body, SCCA, e.g.) that's why it's mandated that the main hoop be a continuous piece and not a cobbled together multi-piece curve. Think of it this way, if all your welds were crappy and gave way, the mechanical joint (in the properly fitted cage) would still provide some strength. In the cheated cage, it would shear at the butts, and fall apart.

I'm inclined to do the same, but I think this is "cheating". Sort of like mandrel bends on exhausts that aren't radius cut.

I am curious how this would undermine unions? Not being a smart ***, just curious.

Cool Paul, I can breath a bit easier. I PM'd you.

looks good to me. Did the arrangement for venting the valve cover change? Optimally, what's the best way to plumb this? BTW, lol. nice vid. I love it when it snows!!!

Paul, I was curious about your valve seat cutter. Does the pilot that runs through the guide have a taper? For concenticity, does the cutter rely on the tip or the entire length of the valve guide to locate itself? Reason I am asking is during my porting job, I ground down the exhaust valve guides flush to the floor?/ceiling? in an attempt to get more flow. The exhaust bowls now have a smoother ramp down out to the port. I was told that I would need new valve guides installed since the cutter needs a flat guide top for a tapered pilot to work.

I agree with qwik240z.

I helped a relative move from CA to WA and I think it was a Ryder truck (forgive my heat stroke memory fade, it might've been a U-haul...). They said it had A/C, but didn't mention it wasn't working on our move day, the hottest day of the year 100 temps OUTSIDE. It started overheating 5hrs into the drive during the hottest time of day, and busiest parts of traffic (of course) had to drive with the heater on full blast to keep it from overheating! I thought it was weird that I drank a 2 liter bottle of 7-up and didn't have to pee the entire 1st day driving. Turns out I don't recall sweating that much either, it pretty much evaporated leaving ashy salt on my skin. It must have been 114 degrees in the cab. It felt like driving with a hair dryer on high blowing at my face most of the time. There were other problems with the truck, but as bad as it was, I dreaded breaking down and having to unload everything on the side of the road in the desert, and reloading into a "good" truck even more. It must've been fate and the stars shined upon us, and we did not break down. The second leg of the trip, it started to rain, and the wipers were crappy and the windshield was cracked and leaked, but after literally driving through hell, we made it. So my advice is check out before hand if all the important things on the truck indeed WORK before heading off on the big adventure.

I saw the car before it went up officially for sale. It does have some bondo. There is a bondo detector for around $10 or a more expensive $35 paint thickness tool that work off of magnetism. But you never truly know until you get the paint off. Do you really want to know??? Sometimes it's best NOT knowing. I'm guessing the dimpling on the rear roof is where the hatch jammed into it from being rear ended. I dunno for sure, I just casually looked over the car since I wasn't in the market for another project. I think you got a fair deal.